Author Topic: Swapping 93' 2.5 into my 97' SE?  (Read 2944 times)

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Offline sharpxmen

  • Chief Squirrel Blower®
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Re: Swapping 93' 2.5 into my 97' SE?
« Reply #15 on: September 08, 2012, 07:15:35 AM »
I used the distributor from the 97. If you look at the dizzy from the 97 and from the 93 side by side the rotation of the oil pump stub is different from each other in conjunction with the rotor. How do you set it correctly? Sorry I am used to working on older carburated V-8s.


you can rotate the oil pump to line up with the slot.
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end

catfish33

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Re: Swapping 93' 2.5 into my 97' SE?
« Reply #16 on: September 08, 2012, 07:38:13 AM »
Ok so how should I go about setting this up properly? Right now it is running pretty good but I would like to set it up the right way.

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Swapping 93' 2.5 into my 97' SE?
« Reply #17 on: September 08, 2012, 08:12:18 AM »
Ok so how should I go about setting this up properly? Right now it is running pretty good but I would like to set it up the right way.

from '95 FSM (the oil pump slot part is probably not accurate for your distributor, you'll have to eyeball it in the new position)
Quote
[...]
(5) Remove the cylinder number 1 spark plug.
(6) Hold a finger over the open spark plug hole.
Rotate the engine at the vibration dampener bolt until
compression (pressure) is felt.
Slowly continue to rotate the engine. Do this until
the timing index mark on the vibration damper pulley
aligns with the top dead center (TDC) mark (0
degree) on timing degree scale (Fig. 9). Always rotate
the engine in direction of normal rotation. Do not rotate
the engine backward to align the timing marks.
[...]
INSTALLATION
(1) If the engine crankshaft has been rotated after
distributor removal, cylinder number 1 must be returned
to its proper firing stroke. Refer to the previous
REMOVAL steps number 5 and 6. These steps
must be done before installing distributor.

(2) Check the position of the slot on the oil pump
gear. On the 2.5L engine, it should be just slightly
before (counterclockwise of) the 10 o’clock position
(Fig. 10). On the 4.0L engine, it should be just
slightly before (counterclockwise of) the 11 o’clock position
(Fig. 11). If not, place a flat blade screwdriver
into the oil pump gear and rotate it into the proper
position.
(3) Factory replacement distributors are equipped
with a plastic alignment pin already installed (Fig.
7). This pin is used to temporarily hold the rotor to
the cylinder number 1 firing position during distributor
installation. If this pin is in place, proceed to
step number 8. If not, proceed to step number 4.
(4) If the original distributor is to be reinstalled,
such as during engine overhaul, the plastic pin will
not be available. A 3/16 inch drift pin punch tool may
be substituted for the plastic pin.
(5) Remove the camshaft position sensor from the
distributor housing. Lift straight up.
(6) Four different alignment holes are provided on
the plastic ring (Fig. 12). Note that 2.5L and 4.0L
engines have different alignment holes (Fig.
12).
(7) Rotate the distributor shaft and install the pin
punch tool through the proper alignment hole in the
plastic ring (Fig. 12) and into the mating access hole
in the distributor housing. This will prevent the distributor
shaft and rotor from rotating.

( 8 ) Clean the distributor mounting hole area of the
engine block.
( 9 ) Install a new distributor-to-engine block gasket
(Fig. 8 ).
(10) Install the rotor to the distributor shaft.
(11) 2.5L 4-Cylinder Engine: Pre-position the distributor
into the engine while holding the centerline
of the base slot in the 1 o’clock position (Fig. 13).
Continue to engage the distributor into the engine.
The rotor and distributor will rotate clockwise during
installation. This is due to the helical cut gears on
the distributor and camshaft. When the distributor is
fully seated to the engine block, the centerline of the
base slot should be aligned to the clamp bolt mounting
hole on the engine (Fig. 14). The rotor should
also be pointed slightly past (clockwise of) the 3
o’clock position.

The distributor is correctly installed when:
˛ the rotor is pointed at the 3 o’clock position (2.5L
engine), or at the 5 o’clock position (4.0L engine).
˛ the plastic alignment pin (or pin punch tool) is still
installed to distributor.

˛ the number 1 cylinder piston is set at top dead
center (TDC) (compression stroke).
˛ the centerline of the slot at the base of the distributor
is aligned to the centerline of the distributor
holddown bolt hole on the engine. In this position,
the holddown bolt should easily pass through the slot
and into the engine.
No adjustments are necessary. Proceed to next
step.

(12) Install the distributor holddown clamp and
bolt. Tighten the bolt to 23 Nzm (17 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Remove the pin punch tool from the distributor.
Or, if the plastic alignment pin was used, remove
it straight down from the bottom of the distributor.
Discard plastic pin.
(14) If removed, install the camshaft position sensor
to the distributor. Align the wiring harness grommet
to the notch in the distributor housing.
(15) Install the rotor.
CAUTION: If the distributor cap is incorrectly positioned
on distributor housing, the cap or rotor may
be damaged when engine is started.
(16) Install the distributor cap. Tighten distributor
cap holddown screws to 3 Nzm (26 in. lbs.) torque.
(17) If removed, install the spark plug cables to
the distributor cap. For proper firing order, refer to
the Specifications section at the end of this group.
See Engine Firing Order.
(18) Connect the distributor wiring harness to the
main engine harness.
(19) Connect battery cable to battery.

« Last Edit: September 08, 2012, 08:16:19 AM by sharpxmen »
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end

catfish33

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Re: Swapping 93' 2.5 into my 97' SE?
« Reply #18 on: September 11, 2012, 06:25:44 AM »
Thanks for the info. I will try and get it set up right this weekend. She sure does run good the way it is though. Got one hell of a deal on this motor.