Topic: 4 cyl Rebuild ... Options?

[RNandKT]

Pics of the tear down:

Air filter/box assy removed

[RNandKT]

Intake removed (all wiring unplugged and pulled to the passenger side of the engine, and I just let the power steering pump hang since it wasn't in the way, I also left the exhaust manifold alone too since it had enough play to pull away from the head without issue).

[RNandKT]

And with the head off, (obviously I had to pull the valve cover, spark plugs, and the Alternator/AC bracket before removing the head). Important note for anyone who has never done this, always make sure to put the push rods in the same positions they came out off. I always just find a carboard box and stab each one in so they don't go anywhere and I know the order.

[RNandKT]

Closer look at the head gasket

[RNandKT]

And the new lifters next to the old and the head after being cleaned and shaved. Can't wait to get it out on the trail. If you can't tell BTW the wifes new Jeep is white. Suppose I should have taken a picture of taking out the lifters, but didn't think of that at the time. These little motors come apart and go back together so quick.

[sharpxmen]

Yeah it was missing a piece between the cylinders. Did not cause any damage to the block or head though (the guy parked it the day it happened). I went ahead and had the head shaved and replaced the spark plugs, thermostat and lifters while I was in there. If I can get the replacement ford injector from the guy on ebay I will replace those too (may have to buy another one).

replace the fuel filter and if you can do a fuel pressure test.

EDIT: ah, it's a TJ, i think i remember the filter being in the tank so if that's the case maybe just do the pressure test for now

EDIT2: just a guess that cyl head gasket it's not the original one, looks very clean on the water holes but you never know.

head looks good, hope it works out well - nice score overall

[RNandKT]

I was curious about it not being the original as well, the bolts seemed easier to break loose than other 2.5 heads I have pulled and the intake/exhaust gasket also looked a little too new/nice. But I torqued it to spec so I am unworried. It's probably that someone replaced the head gasket previously but didn't grind the head (or torque the bolts correctly) and thus it went prematurely. Either way I love how it runs now.

More importantly how excited my wife is about it. When we bought it she was like, " ... well lets pick it up and try out having 2 Jeeps and see how family trail runs go and if I like it, and worse case scenario if I don't like it you can just flip it, but don't go crazy like you usually do, obsessing over finding parts right now, and lifting it an everything, just wait till we find what we need ..."

After hearing it run the conversation went like this: (exclamations to try to point out the excitement in the conversation)
Wife - "Lets go register it!!!!"
Me - "We can't yet, I haven't got the fender flares on yet, or the tires on the new rims ..."
Wife - "Can you put the tires on the rims now?!?"
Me - "Maybe tomorrow, I don't have time tonight."
Wife - "Then we could go tomorrow, right?!?"
Me - "No I can't pick up the fender flares until Saturday."
Wife - "So ....?"
Me - "They will definately fail it if it doesn't have flares."
Wife - "Why don't we go get a temp permit then!!!"
Me - While rolling my eyes "Honey just wait a week or two and I will get the flares, and the lift done and we can go try it out ..."
Wife - "Grrrrrr ... fine!"

Anyway now I am in trouble for how slow I am finding the stuff to lift it LOL. What can I say I have always wanted a Jeep chick, just never knew how impatient they were (even when I have been married to her for 15 years).

[jfrabat]

Now that I have a daily driver that is NOT the Jeep, I am thinking about doing something like this.  Actually, I was thinking about overhauling my engine, but now you have me reconsidering it...

[RNandKT]

The complete overhaul is not a bad idea, but requires more of an investment in both time and money. You have to pull the motor and between the basic re-ring kit (no new pistons) and the machine work, it would cost you about $400-$500 bucks to do it. Give or take depending on how basic you go. But most of the time on these motors, as long as the proper oil changes have been done and they haven't been beaten too badly, last a long time, and the parts that wear out first are the heads and lifters.

Thats not to say a rebuild is bad, but not always needed. But that being said spending a little more on a rebuild does give you a little more long term security. Also if you are already rebuilding you can also go further towards performance too (hotter cam, bore out the block, some head work, and the list goes on based upon your pocket book). But for me it's a no brainer. Repair the issues and it runs smoother than my Jeep for about $150  .... The way I see it if I ever am looking at a full rebuild it's time to consider swapping for the I-6. The swap can be done cheaper than the "performance" rebuild on the I-4 anyway.

[jfrabat]

I hear you... Still, spending a couple hundred bucks on the rebuild is not a huge issue; if it gets me a couple more ponies under the hood, I am a happy camper.  In fact, I was thinking even along the lines of a PSC power steering pump and Hesco water pump along with the rebuild (and I was planning on throwing in new pistons, by the way).  The hot cam is already in there, so no need to go even more aggressive.  And since this is my toy now, not may daily driving car, time is also not a huge factor.

Getting the parts down here (Panama, in Central America), on the other hand, is a completely different issue.  I have to get the right part, in the right size the FIRST time.  There is no "I'll just get this size piston and exchange them if I need some other size", as the shipping would really kill me...  I don't think I would go as far as head work and all that, but just making everything better than spec to make it runn like a swiss watch and squeeze every ounce of torque out of the little squirrels!

[RNandKT]

Yeah I can see that. As far as the right part, don't do your machine work until the parts arrive. I always just take the pistons with me to the machine shop and say " ... bore that block to fit those pistons ..."

Some times they will even assemble the short block for pretty cheap for you.

For me I am saving my pennies for a rebuilt straight 6 (with AX15 and an Np231 with an SYE already on it to do the swap all in one shot), a Ford 8.8 rear end and a front locker. But in the meantime these 4 little angry squirrels do the job and are so easy to work on.

[sharpxmen]

jf, how's your oil pressure?

you might get away with a set of rings (and de-glaze the cylinders) and cyl head job, maybe while at it replace the bearings as well or at least the connecting rod bearings and inspect the mains.

[jfrabat]

jf, how's your oil pressure?

you might get away with a set of rings (and de-glaze the cylinders) and cyl head job, maybe while at it replace the bearings as well or at least the connecting rod bearings and inspect the mains.

It's hard to say; usually, yer, but sometimes I see a spike in the reader.  Although, when I do, it is usually the sensor gone bad.  Right now, it's now showing the pressure pegged at max like usual, but it is a bit high.  In any case, I am trying to recruit some friends of mine that know a lot about this kind of stuff and have them help me take the engine apart and rebuild it, and if I do, I'll go with whatever they tell me to do, as they also know the best shops to get the block and head machined and all that...

[grumpygy]

They have bad oil Pressure sending units, Cheap to fix and easy too.  But to get the pressure so it reads right I had to get one from the dealer.