Topic: YJ Lift Shackles

[The_Madness]

It's been a while since I've been on here, but anyway...

After owning my low-output YJ for over 2 years now, it's finally come time for a lift and bigger tires. The stock tires are getting close to their wear bars and so when I saw a set of brand new 31x10.50 Cooper STTs mounted on M/T Signature Series rims on Craigslist, I jumped on them. Plus, I managed to find an XJ Dana 44 rear axle in the junkyard as well (shoulda bought a lottery ticket that day while my luck was good). Seeing as my springs have seen much better days (the fronts being flat and the rears barely having an arc to them), a lift kit is in order. After doing some research, I've decided on a BDS 2" lift which I can get a good deal on through a local distributor for BDS.

However, there is a problem that arises with the BDS lift - the fact that it uses full military wrap springs which won't clear the frame under articulation when using stock shackles. I've come to the conclusion that I need at least 1/2" lift shackles (1" longer overall) to clear the military wraps. However, I also want greasable shackles to give a better ride (since the bushing sleeve can't necessarily seize) and to ease future disassembly. Third, I'm looking at boomerang shackles to clear the crossmember in the rear and to act as anti-kickback (run 'upside down' compared to the rear) in the front.

I'd prefer to stay as close to 1/2" lift as possible, but here are my 3 main options:

Rubicon Express 5" Boomerang: $160 for all 4
BDS 6" Boomerang: $150 for all 4 (not as sharp as an angle on them as the RE or MORE shackles, though)
Mountain Off-Road 5 1/4" Boomerang: $200 for all 4.

Everyone who has the MORE shackles seems to swear by them, never really heard anything bad and they definitely will clear the mil wraps. The Rubicon Express shackles have had mixed reviews; apparently some people have been able to snap or bend them. I haven't heard much about the BDS shackles, but they are covered under the BDS lifetime "no fine print" warranty as well. My main concern with 1" lift shackles is how they'll affect approach angles and caster (although I'll re-shim regardless of which shackles I get). Plus, I'm afraid they'll look retarded hanging down 6" from the frame.

So what do you guys think? Comments, pictures of the aforementioned shackles installed, etc.

Thanks in advance!

[chardrc]

I have that bds 2 inch lift and i ended up getting the MORE boomerang shackles (i believe they where .75 inches lift or something probably same ones you are talking about)  the shekels are definitely stronger than the stock ones and provide the extra clearance needed for the military rap. but the grease zerks are useless. non of mine will accept grease and end up getting stuck int he grease gun (because of mashing on the handle to try to force the grease in which tends to lock the zerk on my grease gun)and pulling out of their threads...  i like the setup and would recommend it but don't expect them to actually be greaseable...  i wouldn't worry about decreased approach angles with the MORE shackles, Ive never had problems with them hitting stuff .  only thing that i don't like about the bds / shackle setup on my jeep is the t-case drop that makes a nice shovel (which can be remedied by motor mount lift or sye or you may be lucky enough and have the angles workout without the drop)...

some pics

[neale_rs]

The Rubicon Express 5" shackles (0.5" of extra lift compared to the stock shackles) have worked well for me but they are made of thinner material than the MORE shackles (1/4" vs. 3/8").  On the front, the middle bolt on the driver side does hit the steering box with a straight shackle, so using a boomerang shackle to stop inversion on that side is really not needed and may also hit sooner than with a straight shackle, which would limit your droop somewhat.  A boomerang shackle on the passenger side would work well.  I'm stopping inversion on the front passenger side by bolting a piece of 1/4" plate to the hole in the back part of the shackle to frame mount. This has worked well to stop inversion on my last few wheeling trips. Also, I don't think the BDS shackles have the right angle for max compression before they hit the crossmember, although they might be that way to keep the military wrap from hitting under the crossmember.

[Castr8r]

 I recently put on some RC 1" lift "boomers" to help clear 35" tires.  I've only wheeled it once since then and although I didn't 'feel' much difference, those I was wheeling with thought it flexed out "awesome".  A couple of the rigs were well built homebrewed rigs that really do flex well, so I guess it did flex.  I'd suggest  that you get a set of "boomers" that will net you 1" of lift- you won't be sorry.

[The_Madness]

Thanks for the input guys!

I found out today that the BDS shackles aren't greasable, so that puts them out of the picture.

I may just break down and pay the $200 ($190 shipped, actually, when I checked today) for a set of MORE 5 1/4" shackles. I'm leaning away from the 1" shackles since I'm only planning on running a 2" lift and don't want the shackle hanging too low.

[FourbangerYJ]

Just buy some greaseable bolts. Most spring shops sell them. I think Qtec and 4WD hardware do too. Just drill a small hole or 2 in the metal sleeve that the bushings slide over to let the grease lube the bushing.

EDIT: http://www.mountainoffroad.com/_e/dept/01-006/Lubeable_Bolts_Bushings_Lubeable_Shackles_Plates-2-0.htm

There are a couple on this page. You would need to measure which length to get 4 or 4.5 inch. They also have sleeves with a hole in it. Plus they are having a sale. Look at the top header of that page.

[95 Lowbuck]

Currie makes a nice set of greasable shackles both standard and boomerang.
You should go aftermarket shackles any way, the stock ones are not
designed to work with the bushings in your new springs.
By the way you should not need Booms in the front only the rear.

[The_Madness]

By the time I would buy greasable bolts and poly bushings that will actually work with them, I would only be about $25 away from complete shackles. And I need longer shackles regardless because of the military wraps.

I was going to buy the Currie shackles, but I found that they aren't long enough to clear. The reason I plan on running boomerangs in the front is to act as an anti-inversion shackle (run upside-down).