Topic: E-TURBO

[Jesse-James]

I got mine on Ebay for 35.00

[chrisfranklin]

I spent $100 for a nice custom fab job, 62mm 4.0 TB on EBay - very nicely done (don't have the darn link though).  Had to mail the core 2.5 back.  You can probably find something like that on there.

[chrisfranklin]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-62mm-63mm-4-0L-2-5L-1991-04-Ported-Throttle-Body_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33558QQihZ016QQitemZ260045747684QQrdZ1

This is basically what I have, the 62mm fab job with brass plate.  Has worked fine; helps low end a bit - not as deep in to the throttle to motor around town.  Accelerating hard to get to highway speed is a bunch easier.  Probably worth about 5 hp/5lbft on the stock 2.5, when all is said and done.  Assuming the thing works as advertised, its a way better deal than dropping $400 for a 62mm TB with some of these online shops - basically every internet 4x4 retailer sells them at that price, $400 or more.

[Tall Boy]

Sweet, fifty hp must be for the cam modification for the 4.0's. I have never done any e bay shopping , so this will be the 1st and hopefully the most memorable. Although I must include that brass is not that strong, but now that I think of it, the old throttle plate may be copper. I have no idea but I know it is a soft metal by means of  incorporating the geographical scratch test.

[chrisfranklin]

The only thing with these bored throttle bodies is that the higher air flow, especially when you are using the bored TB together with a cone filter & wide intake tubing, may cause the engine to run lean.

The Wrangler computer budgets fuel based on "intake air temperature" (IAT) sensor and "manifold air pressure" (MAP) sensor readings.   You install a bored TB and new intake gear, then the higher air flow yield may tend to lower the pressure readings on the MAP sensor, causing a lean running condition  (IAT is a different issue that can be managed with a CAI kit or relocating the IAT sensor away from the intake manifold).

Apparently the way to fix this MAP issue, after such intake mods, is to order/install an "Adjustable MAP sensor" from a company such as Turbo City, www.turbocity.com.  But, this sensor costs more than the EBay bored/fabbed TB:" $130 +."   At some point this year, I may venture down to Turbo City in Orange County and get those guys to install an adjustable MAP sensor and modified Crank Position Sensor (another doodad they sell)  and have them test and modify until they get the whole engine synched-up with Cal emissions laws.  

Wish the danged YJs and TJs (2.5/4.0) came with (MAF) Mass Air Flow sensors (2.4 TJ may, actually) instead of the MAP/IAT setup.  Would be a lot easier to deal with - MAF sensor's computer would fully, automatically adjust to reasonable air flow mods without a need for aftermarket sensors, etc.  Guess the new JK's "6" is "MAF," though.

[Tall Boy]

The only problem that I know of with the mass air flow sensor is the needle that protrudes from the sensor and determines air temperature gets caked up from the oil from the cone filters and throws a trouble code. And apparently it is too difficult to clean because the air flow just bakes it onto the needle. I mean , there are aftermarket air flow sensors on the market, but I know they cost between $250.00 and $500.00 from what I have seen.
    So, I am assuming that if I do get the bored throttle body, I will surely get the msd ignition and/ or jet chip to recalibrate my system. After all, I will only be short a turbo on my motor as far as aftermarket upgrades are concerned to me. I could get a cam to change the lobe duration , but I want it to have more torque , as opposed to top end.
     I read about the heavier harmonic balancer, and flywheel ring gear being able to spin the crank harder and faster to produce more power, but I hear it could rip the crank out of it's journals.
   On another note, I saw a white sleeper International scout a few years back I am jealous of that chirped in 3rd gear. I would love to throw some real muscle under my jeeps hood. I know you would too.

[gharger]

Don't waste your money. I tried one on a 4 cyl VW with very little improvement. I found a homemade (out of pvc pipe) ram air system to be more effective and very cheap!

[Tall Boy]

Allright, I will not buy it. I have had too much good advice given to me as a warning against buying it. Done.

[SKI BOY]

TALL BOY- GO ON E-BAY AND YOU CAN PICK UP A 4.0L TB FOR $30 - 50 BUCKS. I JUST GOT ONE FOR $45 WITH ALL THE SENSORS. YOU CAN PART OUT THE 4.0 SENSORS AND PROBABLY NET OUT FOR $10 -15. ALSO, THERE ARE A # OF VENDORS THAT HAVE 62MM TBS FOR $25-35. GO TO 'E-BAY MOTORS' AND SEARCH UNDER "JEEP THROTTLE BODY"
GOOD LUCK!

[aw12345]

all a heavy flywheel will do is keep the engine from stalling at low rpms and high load kinda releases the stored energy at the flip side it kills throttle response. Since it has to try and speed this much heavier mass up
It would be good for rock crawling and such or mud bogging to help keep you going.
Art

[WillyGrubbs]

i had the idea of hooking up my dads electric leaf blower to my 88 ford ltd with a inline 6.  
i got the car for 200bucks when i was 16. a year later i got the idea to hook up the old leaf blower.
it was not very hard to find a place under the hood to put it. all i had to do was cut off the pipe as close to the electric motor as possible and i found a intake pipe off another junk car and fit it onto the leaf blower. i didn't worry about putting any kind of air filter on because it was a peace of crap.  i just hooked the pos and neg wires strait to the battery and ran wires for the on/off switch into the cab.
the hard part was getting the timing right so i didn't kill the engine by pumping   to much air in without enough gas.
i fixed that problem by using a door bell button.
i simply made the door bell the on switch.  when i held it down the blower kicked on. i put it behind the gas peddle so when i floored it the blower kicked on.
it worked well......for like 10 minutes before the battery completely died.
for 5 or 10 minutes i experienced acceleration like a ford inline 6 had never seen.
i could burn off the tires and power brake. without the blower my 0-60 time was lucky to be 15 seconds. with the blower  it was worse because i spent more time peeling out than i did accelerating.
i didn't want to buy a new battery or experiment with a higher output alternator because the car was not worth it. and it was just for fun. but i would be willing to say that the reason the E-turbo. is not made for more than 30 minutes is because it kills the battery. electric motors can run for hours and hours with the available power.
i would love to do some more experiments now that i am in my mid 20's but i don't have a car i am willing to sacrifice or the money to get the right battery and alternator.

[chardrc]

wow now thats the kind of fun shit i wish i could get away with doing....

[aw12345]

If you really want power out of a 4 banger supercharge it. Find a kit with a superchager and an intercooler roughly for your size engine have a good dynotune performance place recalibrate the ecm and then pray that your engine stays together. If built right it will haul but no lopy idle lots of torgue from the bottom up. You can either throw good money after bad or get serious and built the thing right. My little 2.4 is fine the way it is. But then if it dies I will shoe horn a PT cruiser turbo engine in it. Not only for the turbo though it has a nice strong bottom end its worth it for that alone. Also the extra kick on the freeway won't hurt mind you my little girl has no problem cruising at 80 mph and still gets decent milage.