Author Topic: Header question  (Read 1227 times)

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Bigboyky

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Header question
« on: July 29, 2009, 08:11:00 PM »
I think this is my first post here. I've read a bunch. And am on other forums. But I kile the fact that this is 4 banger specific! Ok here's my question..... I'm getting ready to put a header on. I'm sure that I will break a stud in the process. I'm wanting to know what size studs to buy before I do break one. Anybody know this off the top of their head?

Bigboyky

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Re: Header question
« Reply #1 on: July 30, 2009, 02:59:42 PM »
Come on somebody has to know this.....

jcsanders79

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Re: Header question
« Reply #2 on: July 30, 2009, 08:33:00 PM »
I didn't break one, don't see why it has to happen?  Call an auto parts store?

Offline Bounty Hunter

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Re: Header question
« Reply #3 on: July 30, 2009, 09:04:18 PM »
It's common for the forward most and rearward most studs to be broken on the 2.5L engine.  You have to get them from the dealer, there is a TSB on broken exhaust manifold studs and they may cut you a deal.  If you're under 8 years and 80,000 miles they're required to fix them for free under the Federal Emissions warranty.

Offline Sidscan

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Re: Header question
« Reply #4 on: July 30, 2009, 10:01:32 PM »
I was one of the unlucky ones to have a BROKEN rear stud.  Take a lot of time to soak it with penetrating oil.  I used PB blaster.  Took a right angle drill (only thing that coud reach) and slowly alternated drilling and soaking.  Almost was able to unscrew it with a small screw driver.  Ended up using an extractor from Lowes.  It was so loose by that time that it just eased out.

I got my replacement stud from NAPA.  They had a Chrysler manifold replacement package.  I was $7 with tax.  It had two studs/nuts and all the bolts.  It did not have the special washers for the bolts so I reused the old ones.  They have several types for different cars.  The stud also has some loctite around the part that goes in the head.  I just stuck a cheap made in China replacement $60 on with a feelpro gasket (NAPA) back on.  I found it wierd that the Air manifold had a gasket but the exhaust didn't.  I hope that then gasket doesn't just burn up.  Best of luck.
97 auto, 31x10.50, 4.0 tb, 1" ebay tbs

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Header question
« Reply #5 on: July 30, 2009, 11:50:18 PM »
Come on somebody has to know this.....
3/8'' 16tpi - i can give you the length too if you need but tomorrow.

look for a kit of stainless, i installed mine and then i found a stainless kit for $14.

and I had a broken stud too, by the firewall, unlucky me it never came out at all - drilled with a bunch of bits, got it almost in the center, manage to chase the thread on the first half and then the remainder of it came loose and i was able to unscrew it -  but it took close to couple of hours and the worst part is that you cannot see there - center punched couple of times and checked with a mirror.
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end

Offline que89yj

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Re: Header question
« Reply #6 on: July 31, 2009, 11:14:00 AM »
Why replace it with a stud? If you get the old one out, doesn't it make sense to replace the studs with grade 8 bolts?

Offline Sidscan

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Re: Header question
« Reply #7 on: July 31, 2009, 04:36:17 PM »
Why replace it with a stud? If you get the old one out, doesn't it make sense to replace the studs with grade 8 bolts?

I don't think there was enough thread to hold a bolt.  It only went in somewhere between 1/4 and 1/2 inch. 
97 auto, 31x10.50, 4.0 tb, 1" ebay tbs

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Header question
« Reply #8 on: July 31, 2009, 08:21:21 PM »
Why replace it with a stud? If you get the old one out, doesn't it make sense to replace the studs with grade 8 bolts?
that grade 8 is going to lose it's grade after a bunch of heating cycles.
« Last Edit: July 31, 2009, 08:21:49 PM by sharpxmen »
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end

pioneer4x4

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Re: Header question
« Reply #9 on: July 31, 2009, 09:55:35 PM »
ive replaced all mine with grade 8 bolts 2 yrs ago, and have had the intake and exhaust off with no problems. and they go in more than 1/4", and havent had issues of them backing out with out lock tight either.

Offline que89yj

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Re: Header question
« Reply #10 on: August 01, 2009, 04:26:16 PM »
Stock bolts and studs are grade 5. I am just wondering why use a stud when a bolt is much easier to deal with.

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Header question
« Reply #11 on: August 01, 2009, 05:18:47 PM »
Stock bolts and studs are grade 5. I am just wondering why use a stud when a bolt is much easier to deal with.
imho i would use studs with brass nuts, studs are 3/8 coarse thread on the cyl head end and fine thread on the nut end - that way it is less likely to break or seize. when i put my pacesetter header on unfortunately i could only put in 3 studs, otherwise the header would not slide in, to use more i would have had to take the power steering mount off, so i used bolts for the other 4. i used brass nuts for the 3 studs. one reason to use some studs is to be able to slide the header in and rest it on them (easier to install) - in fact there are 2 studs from the factory on the most outer holes of the exhaust.
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end