Author Topic: Engine lean code?  (Read 5843 times)

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Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Engine lean code?
« Reply #45 on: July 22, 2009, 09:03:08 AM »
I have a 95.  I am using a 4.0tb.  I used it on the other engine for almost a year before it blew.  Is your guage in the engine bay or did you run it through the fire wall and mount it somewhere inside the jeep?  I will have to definiately check the vac lines again. 

this is how i connected the braided hose with the AN-4 fitting, you can see that it runs thru the firewall sharing the same grommet as the wiring harness

 
and this is where i put my gauge (top left one in this pic)

'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end

SDWE61988

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Re: Engine lean code?
« Reply #46 on: July 22, 2009, 10:28:56 AM »
Thanks for the pics.  That is a nice looking set up. 

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Engine lean code?
« Reply #47 on: July 22, 2009, 10:41:01 AM »
Thanks for the pics.  That is a nice looking set up. 
thanks - i have in the plan to add a few things in there where the empty space is once i get all the projects done (like that's going to ever happen) - air compressor pressure gauge (if i ever end up installing it), air intake temp (that's for when i finish my supercharger setup which started 4 years ago i think), switches for the lockers and air compressor and if i have room maybe a clock. oh well, it never ends :)
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end

SDWE61988

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Re: Engine lean code?
« Reply #48 on: July 22, 2009, 10:50:26 AM »
I have though about adding a turbo setup, based off of some of the member projects here.  I need to get the current issues resolved first.  Of course there is always the money issue also.   I would like to do a lot of stuff with my car, I could do a lot more with the same money on it vs the jeep.

dunklervogel

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Re: Engine lean code?
« Reply #49 on: July 24, 2009, 03:29:51 AM »
Old plugs were black and brown with carbon deposits built up on them.  All four of them. The new ones are undoubtedly getting to be just as bad since the system too lean code came back after I changed them.  It does idle on 3 cylinders.  Also, wouldn't a compression test indicate a valve problem? Thats the main thing I was testing for when I did a compression test. I couldn't imagine any problems with the engine internals really considering this is a rebuilt block with a little under 40k on it so far.  Even if something did go wrong like lifter or something, you think it would affect the air/fuel mixture? 

But aside from all that, I don't want to hijack someone elses thread because I have the same problem. 
To those of you that also are experiencing the lean problems, I suggest going through the list of things that I did.  I did a lot of research and a simple plug/wire change or vacuum test may fix or at least pinpoint your problem.  I just hope you don't have as bad of luck as I have had....

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Engine lean code?
« Reply #50 on: July 24, 2009, 09:18:06 AM »
Old plugs were black and brown with carbon deposits built up on them.  All four of them. The new ones are undoubtedly getting to be just as bad since the system too lean code came back after I changed them.  It does idle on 3 cylinders.  Also, wouldn't a compression test indicate a valve problem? Thats the main thing I was testing for when I did a compression test. I couldn't imagine any problems with the engine internals really considering this is a rebuilt block with a little under 40k on it so far.  Even if something did go wrong like lifter or something, you think it would affect the air/fuel mixture? 

the thing is that you have engine lean code but you say is blowing black smoke which is usually a sign of too rich, so somehow you get a feedback from the O2 that is too lean and the ECU will try to compensate by giving it more fuel (based on the code description) - now that might be the reason you are getting black smoke. You are right, the compression test should tell you if you have a bad valve. If it idles in 3 then find out which cylinder is and focus on that one (injector + spark related) - if it is not a constant one then it might be the O2 feedback that is bad, could be the sensor ground, the sensor itself or who knows - speculating here but it could also be that the spark is off randomly and you get unburned fuel in the exhaust which burns in your cat and there's the black smoke (you also said is dripping raw fuel and that your cat was burned inside so there was my thinking behind that). If you find the problem post an update as this is an interesting one.

Even if something did go wrong like lifter or something, you think it would affect the air/fuel mixture? 
if for example 1 cylinder does not burn the air/fuel mixture you could get both more oxygen and raw fuel in the exhaust (should also have backfire though) - i didn't know if you eliminated the spark as a cause so that's why i suggested that, but your logic is correct, if an intake valve was stuck open or was bent or not open at all it should show on the compression test (given that all 4 cylinders show close to the same reading) - now if it is an exhaust valve that has a rod bent or rocker broken and it does not open you could still get a good compression reading but that cylinder won't participate at all - this was just a suggestion if you were running out of ideas and eliminated all the other possibilities

EDIT: also thinking of what could happen if an injector does not open at all, might just pump air in the exhaust and affect the o2 reading which could result in the ecu/pcm compensating and you would get more fuel in the other 3 cylinders and out in the exhaust as a result, but from what you described is quite extreme so again, just a thought along with all the other ones
« Last Edit: July 24, 2009, 09:33:56 AM by sharpxmen »
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end

Torch_Ind

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Re: Engine lean code?
« Reply #51 on: July 25, 2009, 03:17:20 PM »
to bad I can't actually look at it cause I'm sure i could figure it out. if I was there. but makes it hard back and forth like this can give you hints but could be a number of things.

start with fuel pressure and spark
also 1 plugged fuel injector can do it.
any vacuum leak
bad sensor aka o2, map, mass,
scan tool data would really help in this situation that's how i diag them at the chev dealer if you can reset the fuel trim and it spirals back to rich it up then it's trial and error after that. also if the fuel trim you reset and the o2 sensor doesn't react to it guess what lol o2 sensor. but just to do it alone is much harder. I also found injector cleaners and intake cleaners will clean injectors and intake duhh but will also clean up a o2 sensor for a short period of time. witch can miss lead you lol thinking you have a bad injector. some gm trucks also had a program update that would flag o2 sensors sooner cause they wouldn't flag fast enough and cause running problems ie make the fuel trim lean or rich out and flag codes and cause it to misfire because it was making drastic changes to the fuel trim and didn't actually need it and would also flag a rich or lean code for that reason

all in all like I said check the basic's and if they meet up to specs then your prob in to programming or sensors may even want to drop your jeep off and ask the dealer if any pcm or ecm "engine computer" updates are available. even state to state or province or country has different programing to meet that state, province or country emotions standards.

hope this helps some. if you have a question let me know. I might have used words that you don't get but I can explain them to ya if needed. all in all its not that complicated when broken down.
« Last Edit: July 25, 2009, 03:20:32 PM by Torch_Ind »

Torch_Ind

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Re: Engine lean code?
« Reply #52 on: July 25, 2009, 03:21:28 PM »
p.s hopping to find some kind of chip burner or programmer for my 95 so i can do my own engine mapping

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Engine lean code?
« Reply #53 on: July 25, 2009, 06:27:04 PM »
p.s hopping to find some kind of chip burner or programmer for my 95 so i can do my own engine mapping
good luck with that and if you find one let me know 'cause i desperately want one too :)
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end

Torch_Ind

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Re: Engine lean code?
« Reply #54 on: July 27, 2009, 08:02:43 PM »
good luck with that and if you find one let me know 'cause i desperately want one too :)

I have been told by a friend that you can burn chips for it but you have to take the ecm apart and do some solder work.

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Engine lean code?
« Reply #55 on: July 27, 2009, 08:28:36 PM »
find out more details from your friend please  :nod:
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end

jcsanders79

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Re: Engine lean code?
« Reply #56 on: August 04, 2009, 07:48:28 PM »
So I finally got around to working on the Jeep.  I put my TB spacer back on, put the stock injectors back on (and I was wrong I had the higher poundage and shouldn't have swapped them in the first place, got bad info from another forum),  put new spark plugs in (they were symptomatic of running rich), when I was putting the plugs in i found that my distributor cap was toast (most likely causing the running rich problem) so I replaced it and the rotor, went ahead and put new wires on too while I was at it.  Since nothing is ever easy on the Jeep my AC compressor mount had 2 stripped threads and one that was marginal (have to remove it to get to the front plug).  The front two were so bad that I just pulled them out!  Long story short I HOPE I have it figured out!

jcsanders79

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Re: Engine lean code?
« Reply #57 on: August 07, 2009, 10:31:38 PM »
I know this is old and most likely worn out but its back.  The code is back.  Took it to the mechanic that I take stuff when I can't fix it.  He put his "fancy" code reader on it and said "SH!T, Chris this could be anything".  I almost got dizzy listening to all the sensors that could be responisble for the code!  The good part is that most can be checked via the scaner.  Going back Monday and he is going to start checking sensors.  ALL I WANT IS THAT DAMN YELLOW LIGHT TO GO AWAY!!!

Offline chardrc

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Re: Engine lean code?
« Reply #58 on: August 09, 2009, 08:39:14 PM »
you can take the yellow light out of the dash.. or wait for it to burn out  :rtfm:...jk.. hope the mechanic can work his magic and get the codes to go away..  :thumb:
1990 YJ 4cly, ax5, 2.5 inch BDS lift, 31 MTr\'s,  Powertrax-lockers all around, track-bars removed, boomerang shackles, warn m8000 winch, electric fan. [sold but not forgotten]

2007 jk Rubicon 2dr