Topic: Look what I got fellas...

[sharpxmen]

I forgot to mention that it is 4.5psi by 1700-1800 RPM.

Sharp can you please help me with the fuel injector/fuel pressure calculations with 5psi being the max boost?

new Injector = old Injector X (14.7+boost) / 14.7

23.318 = 17.4 x (14.7 + 5 ) / 14.7

Does this mean I could use the 24lb injectors as long as I have the Enricher?

The former owner used the 24's as well. Please correct me.

your calculation is correct but you might want to add 10% more since you're in boost, that makes it about 25.5 to 26

What pressure are those injectors rated at? Based on that you can use the 24 or 30 and increase/decrease the pressure accordingly.

[road2damascus]

The injectors are: 24lb @ 39.9 , and 30lb @ 39.9

[sharpxmen]

The injectors are: 24lb  (at)  39.9 , and 30lb  (at)  39.9

45.5psi with the 24# ones would result in 25.6lb/hr

the 30# ones would require very low pressure (like 30psi which would mean about 22 at idle) - i would give these a shot at 35psi if you need more fuel (would be at 28lb/hr).

[sharpxmen]

forgot to ask you - does that FPR having a vacuum/boost port on it? if it doesn't you'll need one that has that feature (or to modify this one), otherwise your calculations would be off by 5 psi for fuel pressure when at full boost (pressure differential at the exit point of fuel which is the injector nozzle). Or you could try the 30# ones set at 35psi (so it will be 30 psi at full boost differential pressure) - you can try and see if that works. Another alternative would be a Mallory FPR which is about $100 and has the vac/boost port, but that can be down the line once you do some road tests.

[road2damascus]

It does have a vacuum port. Here's another question I haven't even thought about yet or researched.........This supercharger was set up on a TJ. TJ's don't have a return line. How is this going to be a factor in the set up?

[sharpxmen]

It does have a vacuum port. Here's another question I haven't even thought about yet or researched.........This supercharger was set up on a TJ. TJ's don't have a return line. How is this going to be a factor in the set up?

that's good (the vac/pressure port)

the return would be that bottom fitting (the other side of your adjusting screw) so you're fine. The feed is the one on the same level with the hoses going to the injector rail.

EDIT: I looked at it again and i think it's the other way around, take the hoses off (or at least one of the ones going to the injector rail) and blow in the non attached fittings, the feed would be the one that you can blow thru freely, the return would be the one that feels plugged.

EDIT2: is there a brand name on that FPR?

[road2damascus]

There is not a name on the FPR. Nothing is inscribed on it, not even so much as a number.

[sharpxmen]

There is not a name on the FPR. Nothing is inscribed on it, not even so much as a number.

looks like one of the chinese knock-offs but can't be sure of course. Anyway, start with the one you have and down the road my suggestion is to get a Mallory, best bang for the buck and probably safer when out on the trail (so you don't get stranded out there).

Also, i don't see a reason for which you'd have both ends of the rail connected with hoses, you can plug one of the ends, use the newly freed port on the FPR to connect to the fuel feed from the pump and the one with the 90 deg brass elbow which looks like 1/8'' NPT thread to install a mini fuel pressure gauge (that's what is meant for) - unless of course that is the return (but would be the other way around from what i've seen so far). Usually the 1/8'' NPT is meant for the fuel gauge as the inside diameter is smaller than the other 2 ports which would be the feed and the line going to the rail (they are larger to accomodate fuel flow, there is no flow at the gauge, just pressure reading).

I couldn't see in the pics if you have a bypass valve, you should but just in case you don't you will need one - Magna Superchargers has Eaton compatible ones for about $50 so in case you need one give them a call.

[road2damascus]

Bypass valve

[sharpxmen]

nice,

one thing to consider from that picture - Air Intake Temp sensor:
the good: it is relocated before the S/Charger (on the inlet side)
the bad: it is using a long adapter, check and make sure the end of it with the probe protrudes out in the air flow path and is not tucked  inside the adapter, if that is the case you'll need a shorter one.

[road2damascus]

I have not had a chance to check it. Had to go to the doctor and have too much work to deal with. Too much work is always a good thing. Possibly having Lyme Disease is the bad!

[moparstroup]

well  its mine now. does anyone have any experience with the split second modules? sharpxman are you listening? i am bolted up and ready to map out fuel and timing. would appriciate any advise from someone who has been through it before. and i saw your conversation about the fuel pressure regulator. the former owner had both big ports connected to the fuel rail and the supply comming up through the return port. there is a schrader valve on the top port

[sharpxmen]

well  its mine now. does anyone have any experience with the split second modules? sharpxman are you listening? i am bolted up and ready to map out fuel and timing. would appriciate any advise from someone who has been through it before. and i saw your conversation about the fuel pressure regulator. the former owner had both big ports connected to the fuel rail and the supply comming up through the return port. there is a schrader valve on the top port

you monitor/log the AFR and adjust the cells in the Split Second tuning software to compensate/adjust to desired AFR, that's about it.

[moparstroup]

new here thanks for responding. i assume by your title you have a s/c or turbo on your jeep and by reading old posts you seem very knowlegable. if you could help me feel a little more comfortable with this system. do i need a wide band 02 or can i map out fuel and timing with the oem o2? and do the split second modules work well. i have read so much about people spending many many hours and never getting it right. again thank you for any info you can share. you were recomended to me as someone who is really well informed on supercharging.

[sharpxmen]

new here thanks for responding. i assume by your title you have a s/c or turbo on your jeep and by reading old posts you seem very knowlegable. if you could help me feel a little more comfortable with this system. do i need a wide band 02 or can i map out fuel and timing with the oem o2? and do the split second modules work well. i have read so much about people spending many many hours and never getting it right. again thank you for any info you can share. you were recomended to me as someone who is really well informed on supercharging.

you would need at least a wideband, however it is hard and next to impossible to drive and figure out (and remember) what MAP reading (vacuum/boost) and RPM you need to compensate at and by how much - you need a way to log AFR at rpm and map reading, then analyze the log and make adjustments - there are a few companies out there that make AFR loggers, you would want a solution that can log all 3 parameters (AFR, MAP and rpm) as that's how the Split Second works (cells are based on MAP reading at a specific rpm and the cell value is by how much you want to compensate the MAP reading, over or under the actual reading).

you'd also need to get proper injectors based on how much boost (max) you put out

it is also preferred to get an enricher to compenate the stock o2 sensor reading when your PCM operates in closed loop and you have boost (i can't remember if the unit you bought has the enricher built in or not).

there's a good tuning paper on SSecond website, give that a read - it is explained in more detail than what i just posted.

the split second unit is a realtime microcontroller, it reads analog inputs and a frequency (rpm) in realtime, does some calculations and outputs an adjusted voltage that replaces the stock MAP sensor reading - it is reliable based on it's basic design and operation if nothing else.

EDIT: if you have the FTC unit that one does ignition timing retard as well, same idea with the MAP sensor but in this case it inserts a delay on the crank signal based on rpm and map, so if you experience pinging (knock) you can retart timing based on boost and rpm to avoid it.