Topic: Transmission Opinions

[aw12345]

The 2.4L share the 4.0L bolt pattern which is similar to the GM 90* bolt pattern.  The 2.5L uses a pattern similar to the GM 60* bolt pattern.

Any automatic is going to need a manual shift valve body if you want to manually shift it.  Might as well go with a reverse pattern while you're at it as well.

You are wrong there Jeffy, I went with the assumption that the 2.4L and the 4.0 had the same bellhousing pattern and bought a 6 speed out of a Rubicon and guess what, it's not even close the starter is mounted on the other side of the engine so even with an adapter plate you would have to cut and weld the bellhousing.

AW4 is found in Jeep Cherokee's/ XJ's. The manual shift setup is an aftermarket deal

[aw12345]

00R4 is a non electronic trans it just needs a switch for the torque convertor clutch a friend of mine runs one in his TJ and did not have much trouble hooking that part up.
4L60E is the electronic version of the 700R4. So as previously stated stick with the stock trans, install bigger tires and call it good. It's the easiest and cheaper solution to achieve what you want, trust me on that one bud.

[sharpxmen]

You are wrong there Jeffy, I went with the assumption that the 2.4L and the 4.0 had the same bellhousing pattern and bought a 6 speed out of a Rubicon and guess what, it's not even close the starter is mounted on the other side of the engine so even with an adapter plate you would have to cut and weld the bellhousing.

interesting, i remember i read somewhere that they're the same - i wonder if make years make a difference with the 2.4 (i'm not saying it is just wondering where that came from as in the same 6 spd transmission).

[aw12345]

Well Mercedes uses the same trans also, they use different front cases. Nope my 2004 and 2006 Jeeps both have 2.4's and both have the starter on the other side compared to the 6 cyl

[stan98tj]

00R4 is a non electronic trans it just needs a switch for the torque convertor clutch a friend of mine runs one in his TJ and did not have much trouble hooking that part up.
4L60E is the electronic version of the 700R4. So as previously stated stick with the stock trans, install bigger tires and call it good. It's the easiest and cheaper solution to achieve what you want, trust me on that one bud.

Ok Art, I see your suggestion is to run the stock trans and run 35s. Since I know you run 35s what do I need to do to prep the axles and drivetrain to handle 35s. I have the low pinion d30, so that means if i go to high pinion, i pretty much need new gears. Can i prep the d30 low pinion to handle 35s? New shafts? Bigger brakes? What about the ball joints, wheel bearings etc.
Im also prob gonna switch to an OME set up as far as suspension. 2.5" springs and I'm keeping the 1" body. I run longer bumpstops now, I feel if I run 35s with that setup i described I'm going to need to trim?

[aw12345]

For 35's and wheelin a set of good chromemoly axle shafts front and rear should be pretty much all you need, brakes you can upgrade by starting with discbrakes in the rear. From there you can try black magic brake pads in the front or I believe EBC green pads. The wheel bearings and ball joints should be fine. Like any suspension part they fail at one time or another. I have ran this setup and been quite happy.
In time you can built a HP 30 axle as a project should,t be very expensive since everything but the gears will swap over from your current axle.
If you don't do a lot of crazy wheelin and don't bash the front driveshaft there isn't a big need to do that anytime soon

[stan98tj]

For 35's and wheelin a set of good chromemoly axle shafts front and rear should be pretty much all you need, brakes you can upgrade by starting with discbrakes in the rear. From there you can try black magic brake pads in the front or I believe EBC green pads. The wheel bearings and ball joints should be fine. Like any suspension part they fail at one time or another. I have ran this setup and been quite happy.
In time you can built a HP 30 axle as a project should,t be very expensive since everything but the gears will swap over from your current axle.
If you don't do a lot of crazy wheelin and don't bash the front driveshaft there isn't a big need to do that anytime soon

good, doesn't seem too bad. I already have disk brakes rear from the 8.8 swap, so i can go ahead and check that off the list :)

[dwtaylorpdx]

I'd put aside the worry about exact ratios until you've gotten the engine and trans working. Worst case you'll either go up a tire size, or change gears again, Not a big deal in the big picture. In my case with a reasonably built 2.5 and 4.56 gears 33's are still too big for daily driving. 31/32 makes the jeep so much more drivable in traffic i run a smaller tire and give up some offroadablility(IS word?) ...

And in the TDI's I've driven they like to rev... They are not a Cummins or Powerstroke.

Dave

[stan98tj]

I'd put aside the worry about exact ratios until you've gotten the engine and trans working. Worst case you'll either go up a tire size, or change gears again, Not a big deal in the big picture. In my case with a reasonably built 2.5 and 4.56 gears 33's are still too big for daily driving. 31/32 makes the jeep so much more drivable in traffic i run a smaller tire and give up some offroadablility(IS word?) ...

And in the TDI's I've driven they like to rev... They are not a Cummins or Powerstroke.

Dave

Thanks Dave, I've started to feel a bit more at ease about going with just setting the motor up and taking it for a spin and seeing how she does. Can't wait till i get home this summer!!!