Topic: split second ftc-1

[sharpxmen]

sounds like it goes into fuel cut for some reason. do you have any significant changes in cell values at 2000rpm vs the values above or below that? I would just start fresh with it, reconnect the stock map, leave the larger injectors, take out the enricher and reset the computer - don't go in boost and see what happens - the reason i say this is to eliminate some voltage spike from FTC (or some timing issue as well), if it drives fine and the problem is eliminated i would go back with ftc first but only the map sensor, make sure you set the base fuel table back on it, reset the computer and try again. Other than that the only other thing i can think of is the O2 sensor, just by the way you describe it acts when unplugging the jumper for the enricher.

you say bypass timing feature but map b is all 0's so do i need to reconnect crank sensor wire anyway?

the only reason i'm saying that is to eliminate a potential fault, all "0" means no change but what if there's some problem with the ftc timing output, the "0" is not bypass internally, the signal is still generated by the ftc unit based on when the signal from the sensor is received.

[moparstroup]

sharp split second just emailed me and said that is a classic symptom of not having a pulse dampner and that i should get one or some type of resivour. what do you think about that?

[sharpxmen]

sharp split second just emailed me and said that is a classic symptom of not having a pulse dampner and that i should get one or some type of resivour. what do you think about that?

not sure what to think, the stock rail has a dampener, can you fit it instead of your a/m one (would it work on that intake?)

[moparstroup]

no wont work on this intake but the other end of this fuel rail  has a threaded end so i could put on on or put the regulator back on and add on on the other side of it. is there a difference that one may work and the other would not?

[moparstroup]

intermittantly the idle wont come down i suppose i have an iac issue although at times it will when i come to a complete stop other times it just hangs at over 2000 rpm. the former owner finally returned my email and said he  had absolutly no issuse with idle or off idle. only 2000 but he wasnt using a dampner either, now the enricher i have it attached to the front o2 only and set it up to turn on at -4 hg and set at 90 and road tested ran at 14.7 then 80,70,60...0 and it doesnt change a thing. maybe .5 on afr if im lucky. then during testing, pulling a hill at 3/4 throttle it detonated LOUD. scared the heck out of me. took it easy home no damage that i can tell. i suppose i need to hook up to rear o2 next. i checked my wiring again its ok. i know the other day i told you with enricher in it ran very rich but i think it just took a fit like it does now at times. i think i want to go get a used throttle body with sensors on it and try that, would you suggest 4.0 or 2.5 throttle body? all this crap going on at and around idle is still happening in or out of closed loop. the only thing i can do to change it is in open loop run it real fat.  oh no there is no changes at 2000 in the map but i did jack them up but didnt help at all. does it in open and closed loop the same. i thought of fuel cut but i still see pulse unless computer doesnt keep up and all other readings timing rpm map all look normal just goes lean and not 16 like decell more like 15.5 or so and on a hill it wont pull through it just bucks real hard ( i think im gonna be in for a t case when this is over with)

[sharpxmen]

the enricher should change, i suggest flicking the dip-switch 4 into on position, that is for testing and is always on. Could be the 2nd o2 but i don't know, i thought that's for cat efficiency, however i don't think will hurt if you hook it up. I would still take it 1 step at a time though, to troubleshoot, if you can put your stock fuel rail on i would do so just to do what split second recommended.

4.0 for the t/b but you need the 2.5 IAC motor and housing (it says 2.5L on it).

[sharpxmen]

no wont work on this intake but the other end of this fuel rail  has a threaded end so i could put on on or put the regulator back on and add on on the other side of it. is there a difference that one may work and the other would not?

i missed this post when i replied, so delete the suggestion about the stock rail, you can buy an a/m pulsation damper and hook it up at the other end of the rail or inline on the fuel line at the rail, i wouldn't hook up the regulator, there's no point in doing that. If you were asking if the regulator can be used as a damper it won't have enough "give" in the membrane as it was only meant to open/close slightly to let fuel out and not "accumulate" and "release" fuel (the membrane will not deflect that much to give you that feature).

they're fairly cheap and if that would solve the problem it's probably worth it (although imo this could be part of your problem but i don't think it's all of it, but since SSecond said so it's probably worth a shot, they would be the authority in the matter and i am just guessing)

Here's one from floscan
http://www.floscan.com/html/blue/accessorydetail.php?aid=98
it's an air bell type, stock one is a membrane type which is better but they're supposed to be pressure match to be efficient, this other one is an example, it does not list the pressure but you could probably find it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-Ignition-Fuel-Injection-Pressure-Damper-FPD60-/120890406232?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c25a13558&vxp=mtr

[moparstroup]

the one on ebay is for a chevy aveo and as best i can tell the pumps on those run about 60lbs compared to what 43 or more from a jeep. is tha suitable.i would love to get this ordered today if it seems right. the air ball type says marine use only but i cant imagine that it would make any difference if it was on a boat of a jeep

[sharpxmen]

the one on ebay is for a chevy aveo and as best i can tell the pumps on those run about 60lbs compared to what 43 or more from a jeep. is tha suitable.i would love to get this ordered today if it seems right. the air ball type says marine use only but i cant imagine that it would make any difference if it was on a boat of a jeep

it says marine only but i talked to them in the past and they said can be used on vehicles, just for some liability issue they have to say that.

the one on ebay: the part number is FPD60, so that kinda makes sense with the 60psi you found, closest one with a reasonable price is FPD35, i tried to search for "Fuel FPDxx" for 45 to 55 and they're all different mount and quite $$$ (fuel pressure on your Jeep is 49psi), dunno how well would the 35 perform so the floscan would be a safer bet imo - give them a call, they're pretty good on answering questions.

[moparstroup]

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i dont know if you can follow this but this is wher i am at now. as you can see i have a ton of fuel in that 1000 rpm line to cover initial accelleration and it still isnt enough. last night engine was warm weather was warm and pulling out it still would go into the low 15's on afm verified lean by gauge on dash working off of narrow band but almost no hesitaion and in  tip in afm was reading just a tad lean. this morning engine was not warmed up and i was very lean and bogging on tip in acelleration. then at 2000 rpm it dips very lean again. i dont think i can richen that up enough but i will try again today. i turned the shaft in the throttle body and got tps to read .43 at idle now but it didnt affect  idle only running the fuel way up does anything. it did make idle more stable and coast down to idle is not hanging up like it was. these numbers at 1000 do not make it run rich its still lean but i think the adaptive is pulling the fuel back out but not sure yet

[sharpxmen]

i don't see how that can work, difference in adjacent cells are too far apart, should be close and little variation, for example you have 19.1 at 0psi in the 1000rpm row and then at 1500rpm is 13.6, that's a 5.5diffference which is 1.375v, so your map output will drop by that amount once you reach something like 1300rpm or so when you suddenly open the throttle from idle - the information sent to PCM would be reversed, the voltage should be relatively the same for that column, otherwise the tps, rpm and map is conflicting. I would send an email to SS and ask their opinion on this table/row, imo it won't work, something else is happening and you can't fix it by cranking up the map voltage (that's not what is for, the purpose of the ftc1 is remap the pressure to voltage output for your range and slightly tune the reading based on your injectors and max boost for the afr at which you're at but you can't jump by that much voltage, it would "confuse" the inputs to the PCM).

[moparstroup]

i agree completly but there is something in the pcm that is not accepting the correct info and i believe it is the same thing that goes on at 2000 rpm. you cant give it enough fuel to run right and if you do the adaptives eventually bring it down anyway and you have the same condition. it seems like the ftc is not compatable with my controller. i will try to send the map to them but trust me that was the only thing i could do to achieve a close to 14.7 reading. and i went up in baby steps took all night. i believe my controller is california emissions not federal if you think that would make a difference. the other thing is it needs that much in open loop also. i would pull the enricher connector off to put an open circuit in the o2 and it is the same within a couple tenths of closed loop in that 1000 rpm line. that was last night warmed up. i will see if they can recieve my table on their site. i;ll let you know

[sharpxmen]

is your idle too low or too high by any chance?

[moparstroup]

i dont think so around 800 . also steps are about 40 on iac and it seemed to be hitting target idle for the most part. last night i actually slep well cause it seemed to have made a drastic change for the good because it has been not driveable. this morning it started leaning out real bad on tip in but idle was 14.5-14.9. back to not driveable. do you think it being a low emmissions controller could have anything to do with it? i sent map to split second. this shouldnt be this difficult. everything ive read from others never suggests these kind of problerms. i have gone over and over my wiring all seems right and the fact that in most areas the ftc seems to work right. felling more and more convinced that the jeep obd2 controller is not fooled by ftc. i read some posts on another forum a while back on the previous owner who put a crap load of new parts on it and was asking for help on this 2000 rpm deal i wish i could find it again. i believe it is why he sent it out to be rebuilt. i didnt take ftc out of the equasion yet i want to wait and see what split second says first then i guess i will go that route. oh and i read your post about that line cant be right and i understand. i just dont know why the computer picks that line to try and lean out to almost no fuel. if i put the map back to what should be normal it runs basically the same as it does jacked up  once the adaptives have time  to lean it back out. i know i said this but on other lines if you give it a little too much fuel the open loop will run real rich  then closed it starts to compensate to stoich. the 1000 line no matter how much change it tries to pull all the fuel out. the highest my afm reads is 16.00 and it ends uo at 15.5-16.0 after it has had time to adapt. thanks for all your help sharp.

[moparstroup]

the idle question it idles a little rougher today not much. yesterday the idle hung up at about 1500 then eventually dropped and in those cells afr was rich so i took a little fuel out in that cell range and it came right back down to normal. it really worked nice last night. but not today the more i drive the worse it gets all problems seem to be caused by overly lean conditions.