Topic: split second ftc-1

[moparstroup]

my plan with chrysler is mking several data recordings 1 all stock, one with stock injectors and blower without  belt on. then one with belt on, then add ftc and finally with enricher, 5 different data recordings. i am suspecting all but stock will have 2000 rpm cut out but i am curious about the blower without the belt, as long as they are willing to help im gonna give them as much info as i can. prom is over now its back to work. i wanted your opinion on something, at 3000 rpm and higher the blower makes a grounding out noise which i swear is a bearing noise but he said he sent it away less than 5000 miles ago to replace worn out front bearing. he had it replaced with a ceramic bearing so he says, is there such a thing as too tight of a belt to cause this noise, it has to be pretty tight or belt squeals,

[sharpxmen]

my plan with chrysler is mking several data recordings 1 all stock, one with stock injectors and blower without  belt on. then one with belt on, then add ftc and finally with enricher, 5 different data recordings. i am suspecting all but stock will have 2000 rpm cut out but i am curious about the blower without the belt, as long as they are willing to help im gonna give them as much info as i can. prom is over now its back to work. i wanted your opinion on something, at 3000 rpm and higher the blower makes a grounding out noise which i swear is a bearing noise but he said he sent it away less than 5000 miles ago to replace worn out front bearing. he had it replaced with a ceramic bearing so he says, is there such a thing as too tight of a belt to cause this noise, it has to be pretty tight or belt squeals,

mine makes noise too, it was new when i bought it, i replaced all 4 bearings and send it out to Kenne-Bell and they checked it - they said some of them make noise, probably it get's amplified by the transfer of sound to the intake manifold. Not saying it can't be the bearing but you could tell if there's excessive play in it.

I doubt the s/c without the belt will work for you, it will basically block the admission of air into intake, if you keep it low throttle opening will probably work as the bypass valve will be open but wot or low rpm and some 1/2 throttle opening the bypass will close due to absence of vacuum and the engine will get choked by the s/c screws (there's not much room between the lobes) - i never tried it that way though so i can't tell for sure but this is my guess of that scenario.

[dwtaylorpdx]

What is the intake air temp reading as you rev it up?

My YJ got scrappy with me and it was the intake air temp sensor, it was pulling timing because the sensor was basically sending random readings as it failed... 

I've seen more than one FTC have issues with Mopar computers, the Neon's are a Bit** to get running with one.
We wrestled an ACR for weeks til we found out it had tamper logic in it that was shunting it to limp mode if it
detected out of spec data. (Car is a real ACR with the sealed computer... so this was designed into it for the race series...)

Wish the Turbo neon computer fit the YJ...


Dave

[moparstroup]

thanks for chiming in. were you able to get passed the tamperproof  programming in that controller? my original air temp would not read at all so i replaced it with the one that was on my oem intake and now it reads fine and the 2000 rpm fuel cut or whatever it is that is leaning it out to the point of shutting down did not change at all. it is there every time i hit 2000 rpm. is there a possibilty that the tamperproof programming could be in all obdII controllers? i feel that whatever it is ,is controller related because ftc works well in most rpm ranges except for 2000. do you know of any info recources for ftc issues like mine?

[moparstroup]

thats good to hear sharp. i was debating weather or not to send it out before i start over again over that noise but i feel more comfortable.  no play at all i think its fine

[moparstroup]

ok s/c back on and with oem injectors and still has tip in hesitatiion right off idle and 2000 rpm cut out. there goes another possibility, did not get a dampner yet. guess i should get one of them next. calling dealership to get data recorder so my friend at chrysler tech assistance can look at it. couldnt use oem fuel rail with dampner. its not the same spacing or angle as this intake requires

[sharpxmen]

ok s/c back on and with oem injectors and still has tip in hesitatiion right off idle and 2000 rpm cut out. there goes another possibility, did not get a dampner yet. guess i should get one of them next. calling dealership to get data recorder so my friend at chrysler tech assistance can look at it. couldnt use oem fuel rail with dampner. its not the same spacing or angle as this intake requires

with or without the ftc-1? and what's the vac reading or it doesn't matter?

[moparstroup]

it is without ftc. waiting co pilot from dealer to record then reinstall ftc, but it is the same condition as all the other times before. vacuum doesnt matter except , like before, the lower vacuum the worse the stumble is at 2000 rpm.

[sharpxmen]

it is without ftc. waiting co pilot from dealer to record then reinstall ftc, but it is the same condition as all the other times before. vacuum doesnt matter except , like before, the lower vacuum the worse the stumble is at 2000 rpm.

have you tested/checked the bypass valve?

only other thing i can think of is if the injectors spraying right down has anything to do with it, but i would start with the above. if your bypass valve is mech actuated by a lever and you can lock it open do that and see if you stil have the stumble. take some closeup pics of it if you're unsure and post them. Some valves have a dual port, one for vacuum and the other one for boost, usually the boost one is not used in your setup, make sure the vac line goes to the proper port on the valve body, and also the vac line should be connected on the throttle body side of the supercharger and not on the outlet side (intake manifold side).

[moparstroup]

hi sharp, there is/was a problem with the bypass valve. the nipple that is seated where the vacuum hose attaches was pulled out and loose. vacuum would hold it in place but engine off i could pull it right out. this lase time i drove it home in the bore and it is in there tight now but still does the same problem. i will take pictures on monday afternoon and try to post them. i verified the actuator does move but cant be sure it is working the way it should. thanks for the new idea. do you think i should go back to the 30# ford injectors now for further diagnosis or stay with the oem ones.

[sharpxmen]

hi sharp, there is/was a problem with the bypass valve. the nipple that is seated where the vacuum hose attaches was pulled out and loose. vacuum would hold it in place but engine off i could pull it right out. this lase time i drove it home in the bore and it is in there tight now but still does the same problem. i will take pictures on monday afternoon and try to post them. i verified the actuator does move but cant be sure it is working the way it should. thanks for the new idea. do you think i should go back to the 30# ford injectors now for further diagnosis or stay with the oem ones.

block the valve on open (put a strap on the lever or take out the butterfly (if you're comfortable centering it back, if not have it stuck on open), with the stock injectors and valve fully open should work fine regardless if you have the supercharger on (you can even take the belt off of it in that case for further testing). Don't go to the 30# injectors just yet, you need to get it working fine like this (with the valve open), if you can't then you have a problem (and it's not the supercharger, ftc or 30# injectors). test this and go from there, i'm really curious to hear how it works like this.

EDIT: on a second thought why don't you take that belt out (off the supercharger) and run the stock one - with the bypass valve locked open and it should run just like stock with some limitations on high rpm/top end since the valve is probably 1'' diameter so the airflow would be restricted, regardless of that it should run fine between idle and 3500 rpm which is where your problem is, try that and if it fails then you need to find the culprit, if it's all is good leave the valve locked open and put the belt back in, same thing here (should run fine).   

[moparstroup]

ok got data recorder. ilooked at the actuator. what i see is the vacuum controll is on the passenger side of the actuator and connects vertically. a small line goes from it to the actuator. the actuator has a rod that goes underneath the throttle body into the supercharger. its very hard to see under there. it is also very hard to get anything under there to pull back and hold back that rod. i can see it move when engine is running. thinking i could get needle nose vice grips on that rod and pull it back. and maybe tie it there. also in my rimmer instructions the three ports on the back for vacuum the far right is where they want the iat sensor the middle is for crankcase ventalation only and third is for everything else including power brakes. is that how you had yours? i think i had some other vacuum lines in that port and i noticed that there was oil in that line and more oil in the vacuum block then i felt comfortable with. it was like it was sucking oil out of the engine. i was a quart low when i checked it after returning it back to stock and it is a new engine. hasnt seemed to use any since.

[sharpxmen]

ok got data recorder. ilooked at the actuator. what i see is the vacuum controll is on the passenger side of the actuator and connects vertically. a small line goes from it to the actuator. the actuator has a rod that goes underneath the throttle body into the supercharger. its very hard to see under there. it is also very hard to get anything under there to pull back and hold back that rod. i can see it move when engine is running. thinking i could get needle nose vice grips on that rod and pull it back. and maybe tie it there. also in my rimmer instructions the three ports on the back for vacuum the far right is where they want the iat sensor the middle is for crankcase ventalation only and third is for everything else including power brakes. is that how you had yours? i think i had some other vacuum lines in that port and i noticed that there was oil in that line and more oil in the vacuum block then i felt comfortable with. it was like it was sucking oil out of the engine. i was a quart low when i checked it after returning it back to stock and it is a new engine. hasnt seemed to use any since.

that's how i had mine roughly based on what you explained

now as far as crankcase vent, the small fitting vent (closer to the rad) goes  between the t/b and the supercharger, the thick line goes to the air filter.

the valve actuator most likely can be taken off and you would probably have access to the lever easier that way, hard to tell without pictures, i'm just trying to put what you explained into an image but it's hard to get it right that way :)

[moparstroup]

2 things sharp i had wrong split second wiring sheet. they sent me one that was slightly different but now r4 map wont come off 500 rpm line. if i change it back to my 97 2.5l  instructions it works but computer keeps overriding my values like before. on the top of my 00 2.5l instructions it says for fed emmissions. i have california low emissions controller. i checked mopar part number

[moparstroup]

  i looked at the actuator and without pulling it off i can see what is happening. the 2000 lean out and the tip in hesitation work the same way. the wideband goes extreemly lean to the point that the engine severly missfires this causes vac to go low and after a small delay the actuator lets go and starts to give up. as soon as the engine begins to pick up vac comes up and actuator pulls back again. it may not be right but i dont think the tail is wagging the dog. pretty sure its the other way around. when i get the wiring set up right for california emmissions and problem is still there then i will take it off. ive told everyone i have a low emmisions controller but no one seems to think it would matter but s/s says they have many 2.5l jeeps running there equiptment and are having no problems. they didnt say anything about low emmissions controllers. i told them that it had that on it last time i contacted them and they said it was the missing dampner at that time.