Author Topic: Check engine flashing and running rough  (Read 5020 times)

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Offline dexetr30

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Re: Check engine flashing and running rough
« Reply #30 on: April 05, 2013, 09:21:51 AM »
Valve burn is a very good possibility considering the injector on that cylinder was bad.
02 2.5.L automatic: 4.0L t.b., 4.0l air intake, K&N filter, Scream'n Demon coil, 8.5mm MSD Super Conductor plug wires, Stage 1 Jet Chip, 29" BFG all terrain KO's. Taurus E-fan, Hummer front bumper, Skyjacker high capacity trans pan, 48" hi-lift, Rubi susp w. 3/4" BB.

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Check engine flashing and running rough
« Reply #31 on: April 05, 2013, 09:35:54 AM »
Valve burn is a very good possibility considering the injector on that cylinder was bad.


the valve can burn if it does not seat properly and exhaust gasses make it past the seat, in that case it can also damage the injector. to give you an example, if the seat was not machined "in-line" with the valve guide then it would not seal, gasses would make it between the valve and the seat and cause the intake valve to overheat and possibly bend. It can also be the other way around too like yous say if the injector is bad and the gas temps go too high in the chamber. Until they take off the valve to check the seating side would be hard to tell, in most cases you see a section of the valve being burned off which is not your case.
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Offline dexetr30

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Re: Check engine flashing and running rough
« Reply #32 on: April 05, 2013, 10:14:49 AM »
the valve can burn if it does not seat properly and exhaust gasses make it past the seat, in that case it can also damage the injector. to give you an example, if the seat was not machined "in-line" with the valve guide then it would not seal, gasses would make it between the valve and the seat and cause the intake valve to overheat and possibly bend. It can also be the other way around too like yous say if the injector is bad and the gas temps go too high in the chamber. Until they take off the valve to check the seating side would be hard to tell, in most cases you see a section of the valve being burned off which is not your case.

Well, this got me thinking...

I DID NOT have any injector problems until after I added the new/re-manufactured cylinder head. Two days into running the engine with the new head, things went bad. None of the injector codes showed up until that point. Immediately prior to replacing the injectors, I was getting a code for P0201, P0202, P0203 and P0204. Again, no problems with the injectors before the head switch.

Compression check yesterday showed zero compression on # 4. The remaining cylinders had acceptable compression when turning the engine over with the fuel pump relay removed. I then connected my shop compressor tank (leak down test) to the remaining 3 cylinders @ 110 p.s.i. and heard a hissing sound coming from every single cylinder. I did this with the rocker arms removed so as to ensure all the valves were indeed shut. Still, air escaped.

This isn't cool and at this point is costing me a boat load of money.
02 2.5.L automatic: 4.0L t.b., 4.0l air intake, K&N filter, Scream'n Demon coil, 8.5mm MSD Super Conductor plug wires, Stage 1 Jet Chip, 29" BFG all terrain KO's. Taurus E-fan, Hummer front bumper, Skyjacker high capacity trans pan, 48" hi-lift, Rubi susp w. 3/4" BB.

Offline dwtaylorpdx

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Re: Check engine flashing and running rough
« Reply #33 on: April 05, 2013, 07:15:24 PM »
You should have about 140 lbs on each cylinder,, with my cam and
aftermarket pistons I get 145 to 150 on each jug depending on the temperature.

It cost me about 2K to have my motor fully gone through
rebuilt and warmed up with Hesco parts. By a acquaintance race engine builder.

Most of my experience with overheating engines is that if it get hot enough to warp
the heads,, you likely have toasted rings and piston tops. 

Cheers
Dave


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Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Check engine flashing and running rough
« Reply #34 on: April 05, 2013, 07:25:51 PM »
i would take the head back and inquire, if they're good folks they'll fix it and make it right, who knows what could have happened. if the plastic cap on the injector is burned then you can blame it on the valve, otherwise i doubt it's something wrong with them - i'm guessing once the head is fixed it will run fine.
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end