Topic: Turbochargers

[swatsniper1s1k]

Looking to turbo my squirrels. know nothing about turbos except how they generally work. was playing around on ebay and found this.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T25-TD04-H-TURBO-CHARGER-S13-S14-S15-300ZX-TURBOCHARGER_W0QQitemZ400039484408QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item400039484408&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1171|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318

is it a good deal? and would i be able to easily make it work on my 2.5L, and what is a complete listing of what i would need for the install parts wise? and what do you all think of getting this installed by a shop? since i would have no bloomin idea of what to do and how to do it.

Thanks

Oh and i'm not sure if my '91 is TPI or otherwise injected.

[st.chevrolet]

Looking to turbo my squirrels. know nothing about turbos except how they generally work. was playing around on ebay and found this.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T25-TD04-H-TURBO-CHARGER-S13-S14-S15-300ZX-TURBOCHARGER_W0QQitemZ400039484408QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item400039484408&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1171|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318

is it a good deal? and would i be able to easily make it work on my 2.5L, and what is a complete listing of what i would need for the install parts wise? and what do you all think of getting this installed by a shop? since i would have no bloomin idea of what to do and how to do it.

Thanks

Oh and i'm not sure if my '91 is TPI or otherwise injected.

I think unless Im mistaken the 91 jeeps were TBI that mite make turbocharging it a bit tougher then with the MPI (Multi-Port Injection) found in post 92 Jeep YJ's that you can just change the injectors.
The Turbo above will work but in my opinion you dont need one that is capable of pressures over 10psi for the 2.5L build, it is a bit pricey you could go with a bit less output turbo for allot cheaper and still have more then enough pressure. For a rule of thumb try to find a turbo off a engine that is close to the size of the engine that you want to turbo. As with any turbo reto-fit most of the parts are gonna have to be a improvised and fabricated up to fit your specific build.

[chardrc]

91 is the first year of mpfi... 90 was the last tbi year

[st.chevrolet]

 

Looking to turbo my squirrels. know nothing about turbos except how they generally work. was playing around on ebay and found this.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T25-TD04-H-TURBO-CHARGER-S13-S14-S15-300ZX-TURBOCHARGER_W0QQitemZ400039484408QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item400039484408&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1171|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318

is it a good deal? and would i be able to easily make it work on my 2.5L, and what is a complete listing of what i would need for the install parts wise? and what do you all think of getting this installed by a shop? since i would have no bloomin idea of what to do and how to do it.

Thanks

Oh and i'm not sure if my '91 is TPI or otherwise injected.

With your jeep being MPI the turbo build should be the same as mine, have a look at my turbo build thread (if you haven't already) in member projects under "Sean's project YJ Turbo & .............."
It may give you some direction for your turbo setup.

[Jeep4banger97]

Hey sean i need some help with a few aspects of the turbo, where did you T into for the boost gauge? do you have the size of the bolts you used to bolt your mount to the A/C mount? Was there a Check valve used when u T'ed for the boost gauge?

Thanks
John

[Jeep4banger97]

O another question sean, where did you get the plug to put into the oil pan for the drain?

[st.chevrolet]

Hey sean i need some help with a few aspects of the turbo, where did you T into for the boost gauge? do you have the size of the bolts you used to bolt your mount to the A/C mount? Was there a Check valve used when u T'ed for the boost gauge?

Thanks
John

I put the T in the hose to the MAP but as close to the manifold as possible, my boost gauge shows boost and vacuum so no check valve. The connection at the pan for the turbo oil return is a threaded steel pipe coupling (not a cast coupling) available from plumbing supply dealers.
Remember
Unlike the oil feed line the oil returning to the pan is in the form of foam and depends on gravity to flow back to the oil pan , therefore:
The oil return line should be a minimum of 5/8" I.D.
All portions of the return line must slant downwards.
The connection at the pan must be welded on ABOVE the oil level in the pan.
I will check what size and thread the bolts are get back to you.

[Jeep4banger97]

i know you run the split second tuning system so there is no need for the check valve, but seeing as i wont be running that system i am just running the hesco Fuel Managment unit, i beleive i will need a check valve, so did you run a vaccum line from the wastegate on your turbo to the manifold? or did you just take the existing vaccum line on the MAP sensor and T- in there?

[sharpxmen]

i know you run the split second tuning system so there is no need for the check valve, but seeing as i wont be running that system i am just running the hesco Fuel Managment unit, i beleive i will need a check valve, so did you run a vaccum line from the wastegate on your turbo to the manifold? or did you just take the existing vaccum line on the MAP sensor and T- in there?

don't mean to interfere here, but fyi i ran my supercharger w/o a check valve to the MAP sensor, it was fine after taking the s/c off. Now if you do put a check valve in there, wouldn't that hold the vacuum behind it and then you'll have the wrong info to the MAP? i think you only need check valves if you're on the pressure side for the things like vacuum disconnect, heater valve, evap canister and brake drum - could be missing something, maybe the cruise control but i'm not sure how and if that would still work unless you add a fairly big vacuum canister (in my case the throttle body gets mounted ahead of the s/c so i was able to reroute the lines where there was no pressure above ambient).

[Jeep4banger97]

i just went back and re-read some of the old posts in here, and your right there is no check valves in the map sensor, sean stated that the OBDII ecm is better at coping wtih seeing boost, so im not worried about that anymore, ill be sure to get some for the other things though! thanks!

[Jeep4banger97]

Question for you sharp, where did you put ur t-fitting in for your boost gauge? i was just down workin on my jeep and i do not see a vacuum line for my map sensor just a 90 degree elbow, not sure where to t into for the boost gauge.

[sharpxmen]

Question for you sharp, where did you put ur t-fitting in for your boost gauge? i was just down workin on my jeep and i do not see a vacuum line for my map sensor just a 90 degree elbow, not sure where to t into for the boost gauge.

same as sean did, took out the line off the map (right where it get's in the map sensor fitting) and put the t in that line - one out went to the boost gauge and the other one to the MAP. you can T into any line on the intake that is behind the throttle body but make sure there is no check valve on the line before the T and it also shouldn't be the one with the line coming from the valve cover

[Jeep4banger97]

Did you run an air/fuel gauge? if so what O2 sensor did you hook it up too? and which wire did you use as the sender?

Thanks
John

[sharpxmen]

innovate wideband O2 - you can program it and even trick the ecu to make it richer in closed loop and you can also log your afr so you see where you're lacking fuel, go to http://www.tuneyourengine.com. I feel like we are hijacking Sean's thread, you should create another one in work bench and everyone can answer there better (sorry Sean).
 

[st.chevrolet]

No problem guys,
For my boost gauge I put my "T" in the same line as the MAP sensor that comes out of the manifold, I wanted to see exactly the same as what the ECM is seeing. Now on that same note i doesn't really matter where you pipe in your boost gauge as long as it will see boost and vacuum, do not use a check valve or you will not see anything other then the highest vacuum/boost after installation and stay there.
For my air/fuel meter i tied into the signal wire of the existing 02 sensor.

i know you run the split second tuning system so there is no need for the check valve, but seeing as i wont be running that system i am just running the hesco Fuel Managment unit, i beleive i will need a check valve, so did you run a vaccum line from the wastegate on your turbo to the manifold? or did you just take the existing vaccum line on the MAP sensor and T- in there?

I when down this road earlier on in my build when i was trying to be as cheep as possible lol, I used a "MAP clamp" and other similar check valve setups in the end i found them to be a pain in the ass. They can also be bad news for you engine as the idea is to fool the ECM into thinking there is no boost and just wide open throttle, so you run the risk of the under fueling if the unit doesn't react to the boost fast enough. I would not put in a check valve on your system, but i would consider using one of split seconds units, they have a large line for different applications like yours. Try giving them a call and ask them what they would recommend for your set up, I have talked to them a few times they are very helpful. At the least they may just give you some tips to help you out.