Topic: Turbochargers

[whyjay94]

+2 on be carefull about too much oil, I fix them at the race track and over oiling is one of the most common issues.

Turbo City or one of hte others should be able to tell you the size restricter that goes in the supply side , also use the biggest return line you can to the engine, the oil foams coming out of the turbo and a too small or restricted return will plug with foam and over oil the unit as well.

I use 1" return lines on the race cars....

Dave
Ok, Thanks for info. Turbo project is coming along pretty good. ready for exhaust work. I have question of wide band O2 sensor. Is this something I need to weld a additional bung on my downpipe and install or does it take the place of my stock O2?  Is wideband used only for tuning? and unplugged after tuning? little confusion?  Thanks for any input.

[sharpxmen]

Ok, Thanks for info. Turbo project is coming along pretty good. ready for exhaust work. I have question of wide band O2 sensor. Is this something I need to weld a additional bung on my downpipe and install or does it take the place of my stock O2?  Is wideband used only for tuning? and unplugged after tuning? little confusion?  Thanks for any input.

you can go both ways
1. add a weld-in bung and use it to display and/or log the AFR
2.. you can get one that has a narrowband output and use that output to feed to the PCM in which case you can replace the stock one.

the wideband signal in your case would only be used for your reference and tuning, with option 1 you get both narrowband and wideband.
narrowband is roughly 0v to 1v and it is like the name says very narrow in identifying the AFR (there is no difference in signal output for example between 13AFR and 12AFR, same for 15 or 16AFR, it will only give you an indication where your fuel ratio is as in over or under 14.7AFR which is the target for closed loop, the PCM then adjusts the fuel until it reaches the other side of 14.7 and the process is reverted) whereas the wideband is giving you a linear output between 0v and 5v and it is accurate between something like 10AFR and 18AFR (can't remember exactly but you get the idea) so the output voltage would be different in this case between 12 and 13AFR (and in turn can be displayed or logged accurately).

[whyjay94]

Just got all exhaust run and had to see what it would do. It triggered check engine lights, of course. cleared those out. got PSC1 mounted and got it connected correct and hooked up with laptop. trying to figure out mapping? never mapped anything so this is a little confusing ? I had talked to the rep @ Split Second and he was going to set it up for 6-8 lbs of boost and I thought I would have a demo map to put in and get me started. Did'nt happen. at least I can't find it. I need someone to explain this mapping thing in layman's terms. do I use volts or vacumn/boost in my setup for mapping. I have my AFR and am waiting on injectors to arrive , hope I can get it close this week. 

[sharpxmen]

there's a doc on their site explaining how to tune it in detail (called something like "tuning tutorial" from what i recall). You'll have to max the MAP output at your max boost, to start with you can use blend feature between min vacuum and max boost and level off at that (read the manual, it is explained there how to get started), other than that use the cells to modify the output voltage based on your AFR at that cell (vac/boost & rpm) make small adjustments unless you're way off on the AFR. You use the cells to modify the volts out, the cells are at a point intersecting vac/boost with rpm (this is to answer your question as in what to modify), so to conclude the MAP voltage output to PCM is based on vac/boost and rpm reading and the cell value.

[whyjay94]

Thanks, Sharp. I went to Split Seconds website and took a look at their Tech sheets. I am taking it all in. I'll get it figured out. I was just wondering about stchevrolet (sean) project and is he still on the forum? I kinda followed his lead and would like to hear from him again.

[whyjay94]

took off fuel rail this afternoon and installed new Hesco adj. fuel reg. and 30# bosch 4 hole type III injectors. Wow, what a difference, smooooothhhh idle, runs a lot quieter also.  Guy from Split Second emailed a base map to me, hopefully be done in a couple of days.  Can't wait............

[whyjay94]

I wanted to go ahead and post some pictures of progress , so far.

[sharpxmen]

I wanted to go ahead and post some pictures of progress , so far.

looking real good

one thing i would do is to shield that radiator upper hose somehow, a piece of sheetmetal of some sort with an insulating mat on it maybe

[whyjay94]

Yea, I was looking at my Brother in law's 95 yj and his upper hose comes off the radiator straight until the thermostat and then turns down. My hose turns down right off the radiator and then straight across. Might be able to replace hose for one like that and get another 2-3" clearance. I made a few test runs and the little 4 banger has really responded well. I'm getting oil blowing out dipstick when in high boost, any thoughts on remedy? I installed checkvalve on vacumn line going into valve cover. 

[sharpxmen]

I'm getting oil blowing out dipstick when in high boost, any thoughts on remedy? I installed checkvalve on vacumn line going into valve cover.  

yes, move the thick line before the turbo (between the airfilter and the turbo), good move on the check valve (should be installed so it flows towards the intake and hold towards the valvecover, i'm sure you knew that but just in case).

EDIT: I see you still have your old MAP sensor connected, what's up with that - did you cut the wire? if you didn't just unplug it, won't work like that (unless your PSC is the volt modifier kind but that's unlikely).

[whyjay94]

I already moved my Crankcase vent line( thick one) and my gas canister line to between filter and turbo inlet. Check valve is installed correct. ya, I forgot to unplug map sensor, thx.    any other idea's on oil blowing out? I read on some other forum somewhere , that turbo can go bad and send boost thru oil return line? ever heard of that?

[sharpxmen]

I already moved my Crankcase vent line( thick one) and my gas canister line to between filter and turbo inlet. Check valve is installed correct. ya, I forgot to unplug map sensor, thx.    any other idea's on oil blowing out? I read on some other forum somewhere , that turbo can go bad and send boost thru oil return line? ever heard of that?

i guess it could make its way thru the return line but i'm no turbo expert so i don't know, but imo if that was the case you'd also have oil make it's way into the intake

if you have those lines connected the way you describe then the dipstick problem is due to blowby, so that means boost getting into the crankcase passed the piston rings

[grumpygy]

How are your rings.   You are the only other person so far that has had that problem of oil out the Dipstick.  Mine was caused by a Bad cat and too much Back pressure.  Also watch your starter they do not like oil.  Trust me on this.

[whyjay94]

I've never checked compression , motor has 126,000 miles on it so there is probably some blow-by. I installed element type oil breather today and pretty much took care of problem.( see pix) ordered water/methanol injector from coolingmist.com today, talked to Sean and he said he has had no issues and Jeep is running great. I'm trying to find spark plugs and finally found some Bosch FR7HP that should be 2 levels cooler than stock.

[sharpxmen]

I've never checked compression , motor has 126,000 miles on it so there is probably some blow-by. I installed element type oil breather today and pretty much took care of problem.( see pix) ordered water/methanol injector from coolingmist.com today, talked to Sean and he said he has had no issues and Jeep is running great. I'm trying to find spark plugs and finally found some Bosch FR7HP that should be 2 levels cooler than stock.

if that breather solved the problem then the baffles in your valve cover are plugged badly, so you might want to clean those out as this way you'll get gasses in there