Topic: Jeep "Hickups"

[dwtaylorpdx]

I had the same problem after putting my spacer in, it was the TPS, I think I wacked with my wrench while taking bolts out?
I took it apart after installing the new one and they are pretty cheesy... It has really tiny fingers and the resistance wire coil is very light.

Dave

[Steve-0]

I have been having the hick-ups again and now I pulled a code 12. This is the crank position sensor right? Do you think this will cause the hickuping and tach drop and the overall rough spot between 2200 and 2800 RPM? Also does it real bad when cold.

[sharpxmen]

I have been having the hick-ups again and now I pulled a code 12. This is the crank position sensor right? Do you think this will cause the hickuping and tach drop and the overall rough spot between 2200 and 2800 RPM? Also does it real bad when cold.

that could be it, but can also be a bad connection to the sensor - it does make sense somewhat, but then again why is it only at that rpm range - could be that it happens at other rpms but you don't notice it or that the vibration at that rpm somehow makes some connection to get loose (but it's more of a long shot though, should happen at other rpm range and by any reasonable logic i can't think why would only be in that particular spot). The PCM usually reports the sensor problems well, but sometimes it could be just an effect of a different cause (like bad connection for example) - if you can get a second hand one to test that would be best, or take it to a shop and they can warranty it (take it back if it is not the problem), but in that case you'll have to pay for the work in which case could cost more.

[Steve-0]

Well, I just checked all the sensor wire harnesses and made sure they were all connected right. I pulled off the crank position sensor (probably the easiest thing to do next to putting water in the radiator) and it was real nasty looking. It looks and feels like a magnet, so I cleaned it off and put it back together and went for a test drive. So far, no symptoms but I will get the real test on the way home from work. Also, it seems like my voltage (by looking at the dash gauge) has risen from about 13.5 to 14 and holding steady). I read that to get 12 volts to the coil, it has to first go through a few things and one of those things is the CPS. I wonder if by me cleaning off the CPS it was able to get a better connection and now puts full 13.8 volts where it should go. I read somewhere else that a TJ owner had the stalling problem and mine as well and he did the cleaning and solved most of his problem as well. Noted also that its better (as is mine) but still hasnt 100% fixed the situation. Like him, I can still feel a misfire type symptom around 2200 RPM. Will post back in a few hours.

[jfrabat]

Just a quick comment; dont trust the dash voltage too much...  Mine seems to drop significantly when I turn on my AC (all the way down to about 12.5V or so), so I got really worried that my alternator was not working properly (or perhaps the voltage regulator).  But when I tested the current with adigital voltmeter, there is acutally less than 0.1V drop in current between the AC fan off and the AC fan at max (even though the dash readings drop about 2V).  My guess is that the AC is actually taking current going to the meter, and this is why it shows some odd voltage, but I'm not sure.  All I know is that my battery IS receiving all the voltage it needs...

Felipe

[sharpxmen]

Well, I just checked all the sensor wire harnesses and made sure they were all connected right. I pulled off the crank position sensor (probably the easiest thing to do next to putting water in the radiator) and it was real nasty looking. It looks and feels like a magnet, so I cleaned it off and put it back together and went for a test drive. So far, no symptoms but I will get the real test on the way home from work. Also, it seems like my voltage (by looking at the dash gauge) has risen from about 13.5 to 14 and holding steady). I read that to get 12 volts to the coil, it has to first go through a few things and one of those things is the CPS. I wonder if by me cleaning off the CPS it was able to get a better connection and now puts full 13.8 volts where it should go. I read somewhere else that a TJ owner had the stalling problem and mine as well and he did the cleaning and solved most of his problem as well. Noted also that its better (as is mine) but still hasnt 100% fixed the situation. Like him, I can still feel a misfire type symptom around 2200 RPM. Will post back in a few hours.

just a note that your voltage (it's the PCM that regulates the voltage) will not be affected by the CPS unless of course is shot and not sending any info  but then the engine won't start. The only thing i can think of that you could have improved is if there were a lot of metal filings on the cps, but cleaning it on the outside otherwise should have no effect.

[Steve-0]

I shouldnt have said anything about the voltage. I was wrong. Forget about that part. I did notice that after cleaning all the crud off the CPS the irratic RPM drop almost went away. Now it seems like it only does it at 2800 RPM. But its still irratic. It may do it, it may not, but it still seems like it happens more when I am just slightly letting off the gas. I still have a rough area around 2200-2400 RPM but not too bad. I also still have a code 12. What can this code mean? You think it has something to do with the problem I am having?

[FourbangerYJ]

I shouldnt have said anything about the voltage. I was wrong. Forget about that part. I did notice that after cleaning all the crud off the CPS the irratic RPM drop almost went away. Now it seems like it only does it at 2800 RPM. But its still irratic. It may do it, it may not, but it still seems like it happens more when I am just slightly letting off the gas. I still have a rough area around 2200-2400 RPM but not too bad. I also still have a code 12. What can this code mean? You think it has something to do with the problem I am having?

http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php/topic,3419.0.html   This is a list of the codes. 12 means you have had the battery disconnected in the last 50 starts.

Maybe a new CPS will clear it up all the way?

[Steve-0]

Replaced the CPS. Will test it out in the morning. I also found that the ground strap that goes from the valve cover to the fire wall was broken. Fixed that. And another ground spot where some wires connect was at the bracket for the dipstick tube was also loose. Tightened that as well. Havent tested her yet, but I have my fingers crossed.

[Steve-0]

Not so lucky. Still having the issues. I am really inclined to find out the answer to another post here titled "Bad Hesitation When Cold". Because I have that same problem, and it seems like as it warms up, it just dosnt do the hesitation as bad. It seems like it is in the same areas that I have been having a problem with. AGGRAVATING!!

[la.swampdog]

need help have 06 wrangler with hiccups change o2 sensors but still having problems where is the crank sensor at an will that hellp check all ground cables they are tight

[Steve-0]

Yes, that can help, but guessing from the posts and advice for me for the same problem, it could be a number of sensors that can go wrong. The crank sensor is on the back of the bell housing. Real easy to get to and change out. See the pic...

[Steve-0]

Replaced O2 sensor. Hickuping almost completely gone and hopefully my gas mileage as well. It was getting real bad. I still feel a little stumbling at that same RPM range 2200-2800, but nothing like it was.

[tommy69z]

I put a used O2 I had from a LS1 removed for a project in mine and left the battery off for about 10 minutes, my miss and stuble is gone!!!

[Steve-0]

Back again. Now I am still having the same spitting sputtering and drops in RPM at about 500 RPMs, Its fine when cold but after about 15 minutes of being fully warmed up it starts spitting and sputtering and backfiring in the intake. It doesn't have to be at a specific RPM anymore, but I can usually punch it and it isnt as frequent, but still can happen. I put my OBD1 code reader on and it had been the code that read not getting a rich or lean reading from O2 sensor. So I replaced it. I disconnected the positive cable, took off the old (only a month old) O2 sensor and plugged the new one in. Replaced the battery cable and it ran fine for a few days, now its back and getting worse every day. What in the hell!?!? Its so frustrating. I was thinking about the temp sensor right there in front of the engine. I cant remember what its called. I was thinking this because like I said, it happens only after warming up completely. Any ideas?

Also, for those that have not followed my problem a few months back, I have already replaced the MAP sensor, the Crank Position Sensor, The Cam Position Sensor, the Throttle Position Sensor and had a complete tune up already done. The spitting and sputtering feels like when you get water in the distributor cap or running out of gas. (If that helps anyone)