Topic: Jeep "Hickups"

[Steve-0]

I put a used O2 I had from a LS1 removed for a project in mine and left the battery off for about 10 minutes, my miss and stuble is gone!!!

So, do you think that the computer may have not cleared the code and is still stuck in the "non-working O2 sensor mode" or something?

[sharpxmen]

Back again. Now I am still having the same spitting sputtering and drops in RPM at about 500 RPMs, Its fine when cold but after about 15 minutes of being fully warmed up it starts spitting and sputtering and backfiring in the intake. It doesn't have to be at a specific RPM anymore, but I can usually punch it and it isnt as frequent, but still can happen. I put my OBD1 code reader on and it had been the code that read not getting a rich or lean reading from O2 sensor. So I replaced it. I disconnected the positive cable, took off the old (only a month old) O2 sensor and plugged the new one in. Replaced the battery cable and it ran fine for a few days, now its back and getting worse every day. What in the hell!?!? Its so frustrating. I was thinking about the temp sensor right there in front of the engine. I cant remember what its called. I was thinking this because like I said, it happens only after warming up completely. Any ideas?

Also, for those that have not followed my problem a few months back, I have already replaced the MAP sensor, the Crank Position Sensor, The Cam Position Sensor, the Throttle Position Sensor and had a complete tune up already done. The spitting and sputtering feels like when you get water in the distributor cap or running out of gas. (If that helps anyone)

did you ever end up checking your fuel pressure?

[Steve-0]

No, if it was a fuel pressure problem it would be so erratic like it is and it would do it even when it is cold.

[sharpxmen]

No, if it was a fuel pressure problem it would be so erratic like it is and it would do it even when it is cold.

makes sense what you say and for sure is not very likely, i'm just thinking since you replaced most of the sensors might be worth a shot (can't hurt to check i mean).

[Steve-0]

Well, I am going to do some research on how to test the temp control sensor (whatever its called) and then go from there. Thats the only one left. Thats the one that makes the most sense right now.

[sharpxmen]

Well, I am going to do some research on how to test the temp control sensor (whatever its called) and then go from there. Thats the only one left. Thats the one that makes the most sense right now.

should be around $15 (i think, unless i'm remembering the gauge one).

[Steve-0]

Yeah, its not expensive, but dont you think that if the CTS was bad that I would have an over heating problem? I have the manual fan, so there is no electronics involved there, but if someone could enighten me on this, I would appreciate it. Also, the longer I drive it, the worse it gets. I let it warm up for about 15 minutes before I left for work today and it didnt make a difference. It started spitting and sputtering at the exact same place as it has been for some time now (about a mile from work). And if I am coasting down hill with no pressure on the gas peddal, i can watch the tach drop 500-700RPMS just erratically. I dont feel it going downhill, but I can see it. I am not getting any codes (accept 12, 33, 55) from the CEL, but if I hook up the OBD1 scanner, I get the no rich or lean reading from O2 sensor.

[sharpxmen]

Yeah, its not expensive, but dont you think that if the CTS was bad that I would have an over heating problem? I have the manual fan, so there is no electronics involved there, but if someone could enighten me on this, I would appreciate it. Also, the longer I drive it, the worse it gets. I let it warm up for about 15 minutes before I left for work today and it didnt make a difference. It started spitting and sputtering at the exact same place as it has been for some time now (about a mile from work). And if I am coasting down hill with no pressure on the gas peddal, i can watch the tach drop 500-700RPMS just erratically. I dont feel it going downhill, but I can see it. I am not getting any codes (accept 12, 33, 55) from the CEL, but if I hook up the OBD1 scanner, I get the no rich or lean reading from O2 sensor.

you won't have an overheating problem if the PCM coolant temp sensor is faulty - it is used by the PCM to adjust the IAC position, the air/fuel ratio and ignition advance.

i wonder if it's a sensor ground issue or some bad connection to one of the sensors? or maybe even something related to the ignition coil (either the connector or maybe starting to act when is getting hotter) - anyway, things that i can think of - I can imagine how you feel, gotta be frustrating. that tach drop could point to some ignition or sensor problem that is related to the engine rotation (cps, cam - i know you changed them but can be a connection too) or maybe a global issue with the sensor ground going to the PCM.

[Steve-0]

Ok, scratch the O2 code from the code scanner, its gone. It must have went away after I replaced it again. But I only had the last one on for a week or 2 and I replaced it. What was a bit odd about it is that it looked like it got real hot. Anyway, on the drive home today I only got a couple of sputters by the time i got home. It seems like I get more problems on the way TO work. But its uphill on the way to work as well. I dont get it. I do not want to have to take it to the dealer and have them rape me on troublshooting. I checked all the connections and they are all good. The next thing I guess I can do is check the CTS and apparently the coil. Any other ideas anyone?

[Steve-0]

Something else thats weird, the carbon buildup on the terminals in the cap are on the very edge. Looks to me like the timing is off a hair, but what do I know. Why would I be getting a build up on the back edge rather than right in the middle?

[sharpxmen]

Something else thats weird, the carbon buildup on the terminals in the cap are on the very edge. Looks to me like the timing is off a hair, but what do I know. Why would I be getting a build up on the back edge rather than right in the middle?

the marking on the prongs should appear on the whole width, in your case it could mean that the dist is rotated somehow, but it is keyed with the locking clamp so it's unlikely, you might want to check that though - look in the FSM, there's a whole distributor procedure there from what i remember.

[Steve-0]

Just found a crack on the face of the exhaust manifold. There was also a bolt missing on it on the back on the fireall side. Put a new one on and will be fixing the crack today. I think the exhaust leak can cause an O2 failure. Hopefully this will solve a problem.

[Steve-0]

Fixed crack and put a new CTS and to no avail, it still "hickups". And at the same exact place every morning. I am begining to think that there may be water in the tank or something, because it REALLY starts when I take this sharp 120* right hand turn that also is an incline of about 15-20*. So the gas gets thrown around and whatever is in there gets sucked up and starts spitting and sputtering from that point on. Misfiring and everything. No wonder it doesnt really do this on the way home. Its down hill all the way home. I guess I will try some "Heat" in the tank and see how that works. AAGGHH!!

[sharpxmen]

Fixed crack and put a new CTS and to no avail, it still "hickups". And at the same exact place every morning. I am begining to think that there may be water in the tank or something, because it REALLY starts when I take this sharp 120* right hand turn that also is an incline of about 15-20*. So the gas gets thrown around and whatever is in there gets sucked up and starts spitting and sputtering from that point on. Misfiring and everything. No wonder it doesnt really do this on the way home. Its down hill all the way home. I guess I will try some "Heat" in the tank and see how that works. AAGGHH!!

how much water to be in there? - you'd run out at some point. if it's dirt/deposits might want to give that pressure check a shot.

[Steve-0]

Ok, picked up a fuel pressure test kit from Harbor Freight last night and I will give her a test today. What is still baffling me is that that damn thing stalls out at the same spot every day. It runs just fine until I get to that sharp turn. Backfires every time and looks like I cant drive a stick. Annoying, very annoying. But still, why would this happen only after being driven for about 20 minutes?