Author Topic: witch cam to choose from  (Read 8685 times)

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Offline dwtaylorpdx

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Re: witch cam to choose from
« Reply #60 on: July 25, 2010, 07:11:00 PM »
Ok so a good friend who is a engine builder id mine. So my price aint gonna be anybody elses...  :biggrin:

I'd expect to pay at least 2800 for Parts, and machine work for a street high performance
rebuild if it included balancing the rotating assembly and some mild head work with the valve job.
I am in Portland Or where we have several top notch builders (IE their engines run at places like Monaco and Indy...)
You can pay a LOT more,,, but on a street drivable rig its kind of a waste...

Remember that racers have to build engines within rules, thats why certain engines get really worked out and some dont.

Dont waste a lot of money on porting a Jeep 2.5, it already has bigger ports than most V8 Engines and has fairly large valves as well.
The return on investment drops quickly...

Hmmm do we have a sticky thread about what questions to ask an engine builder and how to spec what you want??

Dave



94 YJ - 2.5 Hesco Cam B&B Ported - AX5 Trans w/Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch - 4" Rough Country Lift W/Skyjacker Shocks - D44 Rear/ARB - D30/ARB - ARB Compressor - Warn M8000 in Custom Bumper - Reunell Rear Bumper - Metalcloak 6" Body Armor Kit - Tuffy Console - 265x85-16 Tires - 2M Radio

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: witch cam to choose from
« Reply #61 on: July 25, 2010, 07:56:40 PM »
so,

I bought a second hand cyl head at the "you pull it"

this is what i'm planning:
1 - roller rockers (bought a set off ebay 1.7 ratio, we'll see if it fits when it gets delivered - i compared the stock stamped ones with a set at a perf store here and they're very close for the distance between the stud and the tip but the price on them was not attractive at all so went ebay's way)
2 - stainless steel intake/exhaust valves - still debating if i want 2.02/1.6 or 2.02/1.5 (exhaust is 1.5 stock) or just go with stock diam valves but since i'm at it i would probably go with 2.02/1.6
3 - ream out the valve guides to 11/32
4 - 110# valve springs (need to figure out what's what - this head has conical springs on, 1.220 od at the top and 1.440 at the bottom - i have no idea if these are stock or not) in case i need to buy springs i will have to machine the valve spring seat in the head to accept .880 i.d. valve springs
5 - smooth out and polish the intake and exhaust runs

i'll post updates if i make any progress.

we'll see how it goes

EDIT:
6 - 7/16 roller rocker studs (not sure if i will drill and tap to 3/8 or go 7/16 coarse at the bottom, i am a bit concerned that the pedestals where the studs go in would get too weak if i go 7/16 so that's another thing i need to figure out

I have to also get the install heights sorted out for both the valves (so i might go with +.100 ones to get the 1.7 spring height) as well as the rockers/studs install height (to get the proper angle on the rocker)
« Last Edit: July 25, 2010, 08:14:19 PM by sharpxmen »
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
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