Author Topic: Brainstorming and setting the stage for the a doubler box  (Read 8360 times)

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Offline sharpxmen

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Brainstorming and setting the stage for the a doubler box
« on: January 20, 2012, 03:26:36 PM »
I started working on my doubler box setup - here's the quick rundown of where i'm at so far

did some reading about the klune, blackbox and blackbox-i and Atlas 4

I already have an overhauled Dana300 with stock 2.6 ratio. I picked up a 4:1 NP241 out of an '03 Rubicon that had the case broken pretty bad (unusable) to scavenge out the giant 4:1 planetary assembly.

the solution i was looking for was a klune type but using the 4:1 planetary out of this busted 241, shafts are available from various vendors so that i didn't think would pose a problem.
once i took it apart though there were 2 challenges that i could foresee with this planetary assembly using the pre-made shafts that are common for the doubler boxes
 - the pilot bearing is larger, the 231 uses a 1.125 diameter shaft (where it goes in the pilot bearing), the 241 has a larger one (1.25 or larger, can't remember).
 - the shift collar is different so the question was if the splines were the same, luckily enough the spline count and diameter is identical between the 231 and the Rubicon 241
so the only thing to consider remained the pilot bearing, i decided that i could sleeve a pilot bearing for the 231 input shaft so that it will be pressed instead of the larger 241 one.

next step was to decide the overall design - the doublers made out of chopped 231s or the klune-v (and i'm not 100% sure on this one) don't seem to have an output bearing, from what i read is not necessary but my common sense tells me it will be better to have support there since the splines are not pressed but slide in with some free play. The other issue that i am seeing is that the mating between the doubler output and the t-case input will add some unnecessary length (about 3 to 4 inches) as compared to an Atlas 4 speed where the doubler output is integrated with the input at the t-case.
Luckily there is such a doubler as in blackbox-i which basically transforms a Dana300 into a 4 speed just like the Atlas, the problem is that they only make a 2.7:1 version, is great if the t-case has 4:1 gears but in my case i have 2.6:1 stock D300 ratio and it really wouldn't be a true 4 speed but more like a 3 speed - so i picked up the phone and called Northwestfab and they were great, answered my questions and provided measurements to help me figure out if i can use their output shaft for my doubler - i ended up ordering one for the D300 that will allow me to use my input gear from it so it will integrate with the t-case and not have to use a connecting shaft as with the 231 doublers or the klune. I also ordered their sealed bearing so i can use it on the output shaft. If you have a 4:1 t-case and want a doubler this is a great option and these guys are really a pleasure to deal with so i highly recommend you give them a call (they have other parts too but my interest at this time was restricted to the crawl box).

I also had to order a wide input bearing for the 241 planetary (it is same OD and ID as the 231 but about 50% thicker at .940 compared to .629'' and i think is either a double row ball bearing or a roller bearing), a new input shaft seal and a pilot bearing to be sleeved and pressed into the planetary input shaft.

next steps are to get all the measuremets, make some blueprints and finalize the design, fab the parts, take the D300 out, remove the input shaft and attach the doubler box (sound like a long project already) - should give me a nice 4 speed Dana300 with a 10.4, 4, 2.6 and 1:1 ratios, long ways to go but if it works i'm pretty much set as far as crawl ratios (i mean would be nice if it can go lower but should be a heck of an improvement over the 2.6:1)
I will need to redo the driveshafts and the dual t-case shifters since this will move the t-case back about 4 or 5 inches

once i make more progress will get some pics and a thread in the member's projects, since it's not sure yet if it will be a success i'll just post some notes in "the mess hall" for now. I welcome ideas or bashing if you thing i took the wrong route (as opposed to a klune for example which would have saved a ton of work and probably not that much more expensive in the end).
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
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Offline neale_rs

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Re: Brainstorming and setting the stage for the a doubler box
« Reply #1 on: January 20, 2012, 03:49:10 PM »
Wow, it would be amazing if you ended up with only 4" or 5" inches extra drivetrain length.  If anybody can pull it off, it would be you.  Looking forward to the build.

Supposedly the Atlas 4 speed redesign was to put another bearing in there, so that seems like a good idea for a heavy duty doubler.  The Atlas also uses a planetary assembly from a "NP241-HD" TC according to the Advance Adapters web site.





« Last Edit: January 20, 2012, 04:01:15 PM by neale_rs »
'95 YJ, 33 x 12.5 BFG MTs, RE 4.5 ED lift, Atlas 4 speed, rear D44, ARBs front and rear, 4.56 gears, 8000# winch

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Brainstorming and setting the stage for the a doubler box
« Reply #2 on: January 20, 2012, 03:53:06 PM »
The Atlas also uses a planetary assembly from a "NP241-HD" TC according to the Advance Adapters web site.
i didn't know that, not sure if they are the same, the rubi 241 planetary ring gear diameter is 8.5'' OD and seems huge compared to the 231. I'll post some pics of the 2 side by side next few days.

EDIT: the planetary gear on 241HD seems smaller than the 241OR by quite a bit
241HD


241OR


« Last Edit: January 20, 2012, 03:57:08 PM by sharpxmen »
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
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Offline neale_rs

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Re: Brainstorming and setting the stage for the a doubler box
« Reply #3 on: January 20, 2012, 04:01:46 PM »
A couple more thoughts on this.

Ideally, the most reliable setup would be to have 4:1 gears in the D300 and a 2.72 planetary in front of it. This would keep the 4:1 mega torque away from the TC internals.  But, in practice it will probably not matter.

Also, it might be good to move the rear drivetrain mount to the doubler case, to keep the mega torque away from the rear of the tranny case. This also avoids having two rear mounting points (tranny and rear of TC, if you decide on anything like that) which can cause a problem if one of those points gets pushed up independently of the other (major skid plate damage).  This scenario could put a lot of leverage on the tranny and TC cases and could cause some breakage. Two mounting points could also hinder pivoting horizontally which might be good to allow due to frame flex.
« Last Edit: January 20, 2012, 04:08:48 PM by neale_rs »
'95 YJ, 33 x 12.5 BFG MTs, RE 4.5 ED lift, Atlas 4 speed, rear D44, ARBs front and rear, 4.56 gears, 8000# winch

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Brainstorming and setting the stage for the a doubler box
« Reply #4 on: January 20, 2012, 04:18:13 PM »
A couple more thoughts on this.

Ideally, the most reliable setup would be to have 4:1 gears in the D300 and a 2.72 planetary in front of it. This would keep the 4:1 mega torque away from the TC internals.  But, in practice it will probably not matter.

Also, it might be good to move the rear drivetrain mount to the doubler case, to keep the mega torque away from the rear of the tranny case. This also avoids having two rear mounting points (tranny and rear of TC, if you decide on anything like that) which can cause a problem if one of those points gets pushed up independently of the other (major skid plate damage).  This scenario could put a lot of leverage on the tranny and TC cases and could cause some breakage. Two mounting points could also hinder pivoting horizontally which might be good to allow due to frame flex.

i was thinking about that, didn't make a decision yet to be honest, i am still in between adding a mount at the doubler (where it mates with the D300) or keeping the current trans mount and adding one at the rear output of the D300 (I am inclined to do the latter though but still thinking about it).

as far as ratio and which should be where, i think you're right and it would be better to have the lower ratio at the t-case, however in my situation it is not an option at this point and it would be cheaper to just buy an Atlas 4 speed instead if i was to replace the D300 gears to a 4:1, those kits are something like $1000 so really no point of even trying to address it. The guys at northwestfab said they had their doubler boxes coupled with D300s behind 800HP motors and they don't think my 2.5L will pose any problems to the setup, so i hope they're right :lol:
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
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Offline Jeffy

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Re: Brainstorming and setting the stage for the a doubler box
« Reply #5 on: January 20, 2012, 04:37:49 PM »
I don't think an extra support will be necessary unless you're planning on some high HP.  More then 300/300.  I know Bill Vista on POR added a support to the rear housing that's got is own cross member.

Like neale said, optimally, you'd want the deeper gears in the TC but that's a lot of money since you'd have to buy new gears for the TC.  Jeep-Eater/Rock Lobster/etc...  This was one of the reasons I wanted the Atlas 4.0.  There's no reason not to do it the other way around though.  That's how Klune V recommends it to me years ago when I was inquiring.
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Offline Jeffy

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Re: Brainstorming and setting the stage for the a doubler box
« Reply #6 on: January 20, 2012, 04:51:39 PM »
i didn't know that, not sure if they are the same, the rubi 241 planetary ring gear diameter is 8.5'' OD and seems huge compared to the 231. I'll post some pics of the 2 side by side next few days.

EDIT: the planetary gear on 241HD seems smaller than the 241OR by quite a bit

The 231 and the 241's use the same planetary.  The 241 also uses the 1.25" wide chain and sprocket set standard.  The 241's just 6 gear instead of 3 gear which are also interchangeable.
« Last Edit: January 20, 2012, 04:54:18 PM by Jeffy »
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Offline neale_rs

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Re: Brainstorming and setting the stage for the a doubler box
« Reply #7 on: January 20, 2012, 05:05:22 PM »
Took a look at the BillaVista article.  He sure didn't worry about having too many rear mounting points!  He has 3.
'95 YJ, 33 x 12.5 BFG MTs, RE 4.5 ED lift, Atlas 4 speed, rear D44, ARBs front and rear, 4.56 gears, 8000# winch

Offline aw12345

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Re: Brainstorming and setting the stage for the a doubler box
« Reply #8 on: January 20, 2012, 05:13:54 PM »
Wow, it would be amazing if you ended up with only 4" or 5" inches extra drivetrain length.  If anybody can pull it off, it would be you.  Looking forward to the build.

Supposedly the Atlas 4 speed redesign was to put another bearing in there, so that seems like a good idea for a heavy duty doubler.  The Atlas also uses a planetary assembly from a "NP241-HD" TC according to the Advance Adapters web site.


You can always move the 4 banger forward to utilize the space in front of the engine and end up with decent length rear driveshaft






« Last Edit: January 20, 2012, 05:26:55 PM by Jeffy »
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Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Brainstorming and setting the stage for the a doubler box
« Reply #9 on: January 20, 2012, 06:54:13 PM »

You can always move the 4 banger forward to utilize the space in front of the engine and end up with decent length rear driveshaft


hmm, might be worth the work to keep my current driveshafts, thanks for the tip.
« Last Edit: January 20, 2012, 06:55:00 PM by sharpxmen »
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
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Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Brainstorming and setting the stage for the a doubler box
« Reply #10 on: January 20, 2012, 06:57:56 PM »
The 231 and the 241's use the same planetary.  The 241 also uses the 1.25" wide chain and sprocket set standard.  The 241's just 6 gear instead of 3 gear which are also interchangeable.

you're not talking about the Rubicon one (NP241OR) - the planetary is very different and only uses 4 gears and not 6 or 3, they are also about 3 times the size of the 231 ones.
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end

Offline Jeffy

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Re: Brainstorming and setting the stage for the a doubler box
« Reply #11 on: January 20, 2012, 07:33:36 PM »
you're not talking about the Rubicon one (NP241OR) - the planetary is very different and only uses 4 gears and not 6 or 3, they are also about 3 times the size of the 231 ones.
No the OR is completely different then any of the 200 family.
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Offline Jeffy

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Re: Brainstorming and setting the stage for the a doubler box
« Reply #12 on: January 20, 2012, 07:36:18 PM »
hmm, might be worth the work to keep my current driveshafts, thanks for the tip.

You can move it 4-6" without too much trouble.  Just need to relocate the mounts in the engine compartment.  BUT, you'll probably be adding lift, IIRC since the frame rises up but by doing this you can keep the TC in the stock location.  You'll have to bend the shifter and cut a new hole though, not really a big deal.
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

Offline aw12345

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Re: Brainstorming and setting the stage for the a doubler box
« Reply #13 on: January 20, 2012, 07:54:00 PM »
You can move it 4-6" without too much trouble.  Just need to relocate the mounts in the engine compartment.  BUT, you'll probably be adding lift, IIRC since the frame rises up but by doing this you can keep the TC in the stock location.  You'll have to bend the shifter and cut a new hole though, not really a big deal.

Well Sharp is, the mention of the 4:1 ratio and the pic of the transfercase is a dead giveaway. With  forced induction and the size tire you use building some kind of just 4:1 transfercase should be more than adequate for your Jeep
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Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Brainstorming and setting the stage for the a doubler box
« Reply #14 on: January 20, 2012, 09:13:18 PM »
Well Sharp is, the mention of the 4:1 ratio and the pic of the transfercase is a dead giveaway. With  forced induction and the size tire you use building some kind of just 4:1 transfercase should be more than adequate for your Jeep

only thing is that is cheaper to build the doubler than swapping gears and the advantage of haing a 4 speed t-case, otherwise you're right, 4:1 would have been just enough.
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end