witch cam to choose from

[dwtaylorpdx]

Ok so a good friend who is a engine builder id mine. So my price aint gonna be anybody elses... 

I'd expect to pay at least 2800 for Parts, and machine work for a street high performance
rebuild if it included balancing the rotating assembly and some mild head work with the valve job.
I am in Portland Or where we have several top notch builders (IE their engines run at places like Monaco and Indy...)
You can pay a LOT more,,, but on a street drivable rig its kind of a waste...

Remember that racers have to build engines within rules, thats why certain engines get really worked out and some dont.

Dont waste a lot of money on porting a Jeep 2.5, it already has bigger ports than most V8 Engines and has fairly large valves as well.
The return on investment drops quickly...

Hmmm do we have a sticky thread about what questions to ask an engine builder and how to spec what you want??

Dave

[sharpxmen]

so,

I bought a second hand cyl head at the "you pull it"

this is what i'm planning:
1 - roller rockers (bought a set off ebay 1.7 ratio, we'll see if it fits when it gets delivered - i compared the stock stamped ones with a set at a perf store here and they're very close for the distance between the stud and the tip but the price on them was not attractive at all so went ebay's way)
2 - stainless steel intake/exhaust valves - still debating if i want 2.02/1.6 or 2.02/1.5 (exhaust is 1.5 stock) or just go with stock diam valves but since i'm at it i would probably go with 2.02/1.6
3 - ream out the valve guides to 11/32
4 - 110# valve springs (need to figure out what's what - this head has conical springs on, 1.220 od at the top and 1.440 at the bottom - i have no idea if these are stock or not) in case i need to buy springs i will have to machine the valve spring seat in the head to accept .880 i.d. valve springs
5 - smooth out and polish the intake and exhaust runs

i'll post updates if i make any progress.

we'll see how it goes

EDIT:
6 - 7/16 roller rocker studs (not sure if i will drill and tap to 3/8 or go 7/16 coarse at the bottom, i am a bit concerned that the pedestals where the studs go in would get too weak if i go 7/16 so that's another thing i need to figure out

I have to also get the install heights sorted out for both the valves (so i might go with +.100 ones to get the 1.7 spring height) as well as the rockers/studs install height (to get the proper angle on the rocker)