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Author Topic: outer axle seal -- d60  (Read 1138 times)
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Mozman68
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« Reply #15 on: September 05, 2010, 06:06:47 PM »

Hah...I did....1/2 full.

Got my buddy to come with me.  We hooked it up to the Jeep and towed it home.

Tried to push it so it would get up the slight incline o my driveway and into the garage, but it didn't make it.

Decided to try it again and I heard the starter...tried it one more time and it started up...drove it into the garage.

Going to tear into it tomorrow to make sure it isn't something as simple as the power to the starter.  If all of that checks out, I may be replacing the starter on Tuesday if I can get the part.  Good thing we live right next to the school where my wife works.  thumbsup
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2000 TJ...4" Full Traction long arm, ORO swayloc, HP D60's front and rear, 35x12.5 Trxus MT's on 17x9 AR Teflon Chambers, Hunsaker front seats, ARB lockers front and rear, JCR off road flat fenders, sliders, rear fenders installed over PSC crusher corners
aw12345
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« Reply #16 on: September 05, 2010, 07:03:09 PM »

A jeep towing a Honda, now there is a nice picture for vehicle reliability lol.
Could very well be the starter or a loose or corroded cable at the starter
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sharpxmen
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« Reply #17 on: September 05, 2010, 07:15:03 PM »

could also be the solenoid which would be le$$ damage than the whole starter
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FourbangerYJ
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« Reply #18 on: September 05, 2010, 07:26:59 PM »

Sounds like the way most of my projects go. Glad you got the leak fixed.

Make sure you take the plastic cap off the new battery posts. It won't do anything if one is one...or so I have been told  whistle
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neale_rs
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« Reply #19 on: September 06, 2010, 06:46:57 AM »

Glad you got it fixed.  Thanks for posting the pictures.  I never imagined the seal would be so exposed like that.  Maybe some silicone around the edge would help it last longer.  It seems it would be more reliable to have seals by the diff and have bearings lubed with grease like in front axles.

Can the spindle be replaced on D60s?
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« Reply #20 on: September 06, 2010, 10:44:02 AM »

Glad you got it fixed.  Thanks for posting the pictures.  I never imagined the seal would be so exposed like that.  Maybe some silicone around the edge would help it last longer.  It seems it would be more reliable to have seals by the diff and have bearings lubed with grease like in front axles.

Can the spindle be replaced on D60s?

The seal isn't normally exposed like that - normally there is a backing plate and a drum around it.
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Chuck P
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Mozman68
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« Reply #21 on: September 06, 2010, 11:37:09 AM »

Yep....can't seem to find those though. As soon as I do I'll change them out.
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2000 TJ...4" Full Traction long arm, ORO swayloc, HP D60's front and rear, 35x12.5 Trxus MT's on 17x9 AR Teflon Chambers, Hunsaker front seats, ARB lockers front and rear, JCR off road flat fenders, sliders, rear fenders installed over PSC crusher corners
Mozman68
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« Reply #22 on: September 09, 2010, 06:59:36 AM »

The seal isn't normally exposed like that - normally there is a backing plate and a drum around it.

re-reading this and yes...now I know what you are referencing...hah...

Disc brakes welded on the tube prevent me from using the plate....I rubbed some grease in the gap to at least try and prevent crap from getting in there.

The first seals lasted 2.5 years of daily use and trail riding....at $6 a pop, not too worried about it.  Just something else to look out for.
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2000 TJ...4" Full Traction long arm, ORO swayloc, HP D60's front and rear, 35x12.5 Trxus MT's on 17x9 AR Teflon Chambers, Hunsaker front seats, ARB lockers front and rear, JCR off road flat fenders, sliders, rear fenders installed over PSC crusher corners
Jeffy
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« Reply #23 on: September 09, 2010, 01:23:27 PM »

You could probably fit a backing plate on there and just cut it out for the caliper.  That's how the OEM ones are done.
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dustjunkie
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« Reply #24 on: September 10, 2010, 09:27:34 AM »

re-reading this and yes...now I know what you are referencing...hah...

Disc brakes welded on the tube prevent me from using the plate....I rubbed some grease in the gap to at least try and prevent crap from getting in there.

The first seals lasted 2.5 years of daily use and trail riding....at $6 a pop, not too worried about it.  Just something else to look out for.

I have run rear seals like that for a lot of years without an issue.  My bet is the seal got cut in the install.
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oldjeep
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« Reply #25 on: September 10, 2010, 05:11:24 PM »

I have run rear seals like that for a lot of years without an issue.  My bet is the seal got cut in the install.

Only takes one axle deep dip in sandy mud to eat them up.
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Chuck P
The clowns'? Oh, yeah, the clowns. We fight them too — entire armies, spilling out of Volkswagons. We do our best to fight them off, but they keep sending 'em in!
94 YJ - current victim
90 MJ - the kids truck
www.oldjeep.com
www.mntrailriders.org
Mozman68
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« Reply #26 on: September 10, 2010, 06:27:49 PM »

Only takes one axle deep dip in sandy mud to eat them up.

...and that's what it was this time.  The Badlands will do that to you.... Cry
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2000 TJ...4" Full Traction long arm, ORO swayloc, HP D60's front and rear, 35x12.5 Trxus MT's on 17x9 AR Teflon Chambers, Hunsaker front seats, ARB lockers front and rear, JCR off road flat fenders, sliders, rear fenders installed over PSC crusher corners
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« Reply #27 on: September 11, 2010, 04:46:04 AM »

On my D60 I ran Modified Chev Front D44 backing plates and calipers, which keep the crap out of the seals.  Mine was a semi float D60, but should work on an FF as well.
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Chuck P
The clowns'? Oh, yeah, the clowns. We fight them too — entire armies, spilling out of Volkswagons. We do our best to fight them off, but they keep sending 'em in!
94 YJ - current victim
90 MJ - the kids truck
www.oldjeep.com
www.mntrailriders.org
dustjunkie
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« Reply #28 on: September 13, 2010, 12:50:09 PM »

Only takes one axle deep dip in sandy mud to eat them up.


What is this 'mud' you refer too? 
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