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Author Topic: Body Armour question  (Read 821 times)
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derekr
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« on: September 02, 2010, 01:28:21 PM »

Hi Guys. My new Jeep TJ needs a little something to tone down the red color! Methinks mayber some black body armour would help it look better. Is there asnything I need to stay away from? I have looked at everything from adhesive vinyl panels to Plastic stick on to Metal screw on. Anybody wanna plug some you have used and either hate or love? I imagine they could cause the paint to not fade evenly, but that is a concern for many years down the road, eh?

Thanks!

Derek
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Jeffy
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« Reply #1 on: September 02, 2010, 02:57:17 PM »

Stick with metal and bolts with backing plates rather then screws.   There are a lot of them out there.  Rocker guards, corner guards are pretty basic.  Then you get full length corner guards that integrate with the rockers, giving you a more complete protection.  Although unless you're doing some hardcore off-camber crawling, you probably don't need to go that far.

Yes, your paint will get fade lines.  You'll also end up with holes BUT you don't usually take the panels off so you shouldn't worry about them.
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derekr
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« Reply #2 on: September 03, 2010, 01:52:39 PM »

Thanks much!
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Wheezer
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« Reply #3 on: September 07, 2010, 01:46:58 PM »

Just a thought here... This being a 4 Banger Jeep Board one must assume that you are driving a 4 cyl. Jeep.  This usually means that weight is a major consideration in modding.  Most body panel armoring is 3/16" thick (read heavy) because it is engineered for the hard core bunch.  Warrior Products offers corners and side panels in 12ga. hot rolled and pickled steel (not sure what that means).  Also some manufacturers make aluminum panels. Just in case that is important to you.

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jfrabat
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« Reply #4 on: September 07, 2010, 05:39:31 PM »

Just a thought here... This being a 4 Banger Jeep Board one must assume that you are driving a 4 cyl. Jeep.  This usually means that weight is a major consideration in modding.  Most body panel armoring is 3/16" thick (read heavy) because it is engineered for the hard core bunch.  Warrior Products offers corners and side panels in 12ga. hot rolled and pickled steel (not sure what that means).  Also some manufacturers make aluminum panels. Just in case that is important to you.

Wheezer

If you get aluminum, I would line them, as paint tends to chip off easier than steel...  Not that I did not line my steel bumpers and armor...
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'94 YJ 2.5L with 4" RE lift, Adv. Ad. SYE, Woody Shaft, Superwinch EPi9.0, 62mm TB, FoMoCo e-Fan, SD30 and SD35 w/ARB-4.88, 165A alt., 4 KC aux lights, Aluminum Rad, BRX hoses, 33" BFG KM2 on 15" AR wheels, Sony sound system, Pavement Ends Hardtop, Bosch 19# Injector, Safari Snorkel, Hydroboost
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« Reply #5 on: September 07, 2010, 08:22:43 PM »

Aluminum will get gouged and can crack.  If weight's an issue then don't get full corners.
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derekr
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« Reply #6 on: September 08, 2010, 07:59:32 AM »

Thanks for the thoughts guys. I hadn't thought about the weight issue.
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Mozman68
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« Reply #7 on: September 09, 2010, 06:24:06 AM »

Mine's all armoured up and runs fine...gearing to 4.88 is what made the difference.

When I think about all of the aftermarket steel on my rig as well as the 100 lb. winch, it's amazing it moves as well as it does down the road.   weee
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2000 TJ...4" Full Traction long arm, ORO swayloc, HP D60's front and rear, 35x12.5 Trxus MT's on 17x9 AR Teflon Chambers, Hunsaker front seats, ARB lockers front and rear, JCR off road flat fenders, sliders, rear fenders installed over PSC crusher corners
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« Reply #8 on: September 09, 2010, 07:52:31 AM »

Mine's all armoured up and runs fine...gearing to 4.88 is what made the difference.

When I think about all of the aftermarket steel on my rig as well as the 100 lb. winch, it's amazing it moves as well as it does down the road.   weee

They weight should not affect top speed, just accellaration (in theory, anyway!).  I also got a ton of stuff (9K winch, front and rear bumpers, rockers, hard top etc.) and it moves pretty well.  No corner guards, but that should not make so much difference.
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'94 YJ 2.5L with 4" RE lift, Adv. Ad. SYE, Woody Shaft, Superwinch EPi9.0, 62mm TB, FoMoCo e-Fan, SD30 and SD35 w/ARB-4.88, 165A alt., 4 KC aux lights, Aluminum Rad, BRX hoses, 33" BFG KM2 on 15" AR wheels, Sony sound system, Pavement Ends Hardtop, Bosch 19# Injector, Safari Snorkel, Hydroboost
Mozman68
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« Reply #9 on: September 09, 2010, 07:56:50 AM »

I need to get to some scales one of these days....have always been curious what it weighs.
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2000 TJ...4" Full Traction long arm, ORO swayloc, HP D60's front and rear, 35x12.5 Trxus MT's on 17x9 AR Teflon Chambers, Hunsaker front seats, ARB lockers front and rear, JCR off road flat fenders, sliders, rear fenders installed over PSC crusher corners
FourbangerYJ
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« Reply #10 on: September 09, 2010, 08:31:11 AM »

Last time I weighed mine it was around 3700 IIRC. (not loaded down for a run but the tank was full)  twofingers That was a long time ago. I might have to hit the scales again. I would think she has gained weight over the years.
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sharpxmen
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« Reply #11 on: September 09, 2010, 08:38:18 AM »

Last time I weighed mine it was around 3700 IIRC. (not loaded down for a run but the tank was full)  twofingers That was a long time ago. I might have to hit the scales again. I would think she has gained weight over the years.

we all do as we get older  guns

3700 is not bad at all, was that with the driver in it? lol
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FourbangerYJ
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« Reply #12 on: September 09, 2010, 08:55:45 AM »

we all do as we get older  guns

3700 is not bad at all, was that with the driver in it? lol

 nod I am only 180#  spam
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melbill
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« Reply #13 on: September 09, 2010, 02:34:11 PM »

pounds or kilos   roflol
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'95 YJ, Rock-It intake, Firepower Ignition, 2 inch lift, 31's.
Soon to install- 4.88 gears, 63mm TB and spacer, 19lb Ford injectors,TJ flares with as much trimming as possible wile avoiding welds, 33s hopefully with no more lift.
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« Reply #14 on: September 09, 2010, 03:04:17 PM »

pounds or kilos   roflol
Stones...
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