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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: AGUHR on August 15, 2011, 03:56:03 AM
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So I bent both front leafs really bad this weekend and I need to replace them, since I do, I'm am gong to finally bite the bullet and go SOA. I have everything already in a corner of my garage except for a high steer setup.
Can anyone tell me if the MORE bracket is any good or what I should buy.
Any opinoions would be great, I am absolutely doing SOA.
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Its for a D30, one other option would be to get a D44 - so add that thought into the consideration.
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All you really need for a SOA are new perches. Nothing to special with that. Although RE made some that were jsut the right height so your drag-link cleared the stock leaf spring.
Are you doing SOA in the back as well?
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yes in the back as well. When I installed the 8.8 in the rear last month I just tacked the top brackets in with the anticipation of doing a SOA in the near future.
Didn't think it would be this quick though.
I've read a lot of people saying a 4cyl wont cause axle wrap in the rear. I know you run a SUA in the back which I like the idea of strength. but I am trying to get that extra flex with strong contact if possible. Here in FL we have very deep wash outs that I fall pray to all the time and would be really stuck if it weren't for a LSD and locker in the front.
I'm leaning to RE springs and talking with a local shop to see about just purchasing them. I think they run $160 each for a 1inch lift from RE.
So a RE SOA kit you can run a stock drag link? I have a HD Rugged Ridge steering setup. Anyone know if this works as well? That would let me change this to SOA right away and save up for a highsteer down the road.
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With SOA in the rear you will need an anti-wrap bar. Several 4 cyl YJs here locally had lots of u-joint breakage before they got anti-wrap bars installed. This was with stock spring packs. The RE SOA springs should be better though.
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yes in the back as well. When I installed the 8.8 in the rear last month I just tacked the top brackets in with the anticipation of doing a SOA in the near future.
Didn't think it would be this quick though.
I've read a lot of people saying a 4cyl wont cause axle wrap in the rear. I know you run a SUA in the back which I like the idea of strength. but I am trying to get that extra flex with strong contact if possible. Here in FL we have very deep wash outs that I fall pray to all the time and would be really stuck if it weren't for a LSD and locker in the front.
I'm leaning to RE springs and talking with a local shop to see about just purchasing them. I think they run $160 each for a 1inch lift from RE.
So a RE SOA kit you can run a stock drag link? I have a HD Rugged Ridge steering setup. Anyone know if this works as well? That would let me change this to SOA right away and save up for a highsteer down the road.
Well, keep in mind that if you go SOA on stock rear leafs you'll probably have closer to 5" lift. If you go with 1.5" RE SOA leafs you'll be looking at 6.5-6.75" lift. Flatter leafs are better.
I don't know if you'll need an anti-wrap bar or not with the SOA leafs. They use a reverse arch which helps elevate wrap. Also, do a lot of research on anti-wrap bars. You'll more then likely have to build one from scratch then get anything that will work off the shelf. Most off the shelf kits end up breaking.
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I was curious if it was needed or not - and really if I dont put a anti wrap bar on then I could twist a little - so I might as well figure out something - The SUA in the rear may have to be kept as on option too.
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Are there any companies that make a stock spring height that is built like the RE for SOA?
Or is the 1.5 RE the best spring to use? (off the shelf).
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just get an anti-wrap bar, would be easier, cheaper and better in the end compared to replacing the leafs imo. otherwise if you're going to get new leaf springs might as well just keep it sua, not sure why you'd need 6 to 7 inches of lift unless you plan on running 37+ tires.
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I don't want 6-7 of lift, stock springs is what I would want but every forum I read they say to use RE springs for SOA and the only SOA spring they make is a 1.5. My current set up is a 2.5 so I have to swap springs of some kind.
Just a normal replacement spring will do? Should I assume the bigger the pack the better?
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If you think you might be getting the RE 1.5" SOA springs but they will give you too much lift then maybe just get the RE 4" extreme duty springs and stay SUA. Or get some Deaver springs for even better performance.
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I really don't want to do SUA, I'm just trying to find the best possible spring for SOA with little to no lift if possible.
Looks like if nothing else the RE is the choice or having some made.
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why do you want to go soa? just for my information.
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Are there any companies that make a stock spring height that is built like the RE for SOA?
Or is the 1.5 RE the best spring to use? (off the shelf).
If you're going to stick with stock springs get HD or all rear leafs. Front leafs are a bit too soft. I don't believe anyone makes reverse arched leafs unless you get them custom.
If I was going to do my suspension again, I'd consider a 4.5" Deaver SUA leafs and some 5/8" shackles. Alcan Springs and National Springs can make custom leafs. When I checked with them years ago, they could make 1"-6" at no cost difference. These aren't cheap by any means though you get what you pay for.
I currently run stock 5 leaf rear packs SOA up front and 3.5" SUA Trail Master leafs in the back. The Jeep sits level with a .5" height difference at either end. If I take the top off, it's about 1" higher at the rear. It's pretty soft which is what I really like about it. Not to mention, cheap since I was already lifted when I did the change over.
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Awesome thanks for the input Jeffy.
We have a 4 wheel parts show in Orlando this weekend - Im going to go and check it out to see if anyone has any specials I cant pass up.
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Spoke with my local shop, he found me some 7pack stock height springs coming out of Atlanta. :clap:
Also found a new MORE Highsteer a guy bought, he is not using and selling to me for 50% retail just to get rid of it.
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Sounds great!
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Looks like I am a bit late for this but I'll chime in anyway.
Fulltraction makes zero lift springs for the front and rear. They don't have a reverse eye looking at the photo's.
http://fulltraction.com/detail.php?MODELID=2&MAKEID=1&TYPEID=2&PRODUCTID=114&NOTES= (fronts)
http://fulltraction.com/detail.php?MODELID=2&MAKEID=1&TYPEID=2&PRODUCTID=115&NOTES= (rears)
I don't know anyone who runs these.
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quick question or need your opinion.
The highsteer bracket is the BTF bracket which needs him joints, which means I need a new drag link with a him joint for it to work.
Also the bracket requires grinding down the knuckle for it to fit correctly.
What are you guys running for highsteer options? the teraflex knuckle or a flat top or the kit bracket like MORE or BTF?
I didnt know if the grinding and drilling out the bolt fittings would weaken the knuckle or not and if him joints are ok to run on the street.
**Take into consideration I do not weld so anything like this would need to be done at a shop for me.
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Do you have a link to the Tera knuckle ?
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http://www.teraflex.biz/high-steer-knuckle.html#first
Here it is. Seems like this is a direct swap. Kind of pricey at $400+ but it looks like a lot less work than grind,drill, and tapping the stock knuckle. Plus it seems you can use the stock TRE.
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The Tera kit is good. A guy I know has it and one advantage is that the aluminum Tera tie rod is flexible. It can get pushed against a rock and it just pops back into its normal straight shape.
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http://www.teraflex.biz/high-steer-knuckle.html#first
Here it is. Seems like this is a direct swap. Kind of pricey at $400+ but it looks like a lot less work than grind,drill, and tapping the stock knuckle. Plus it seems you can use the stock TRE.
for that money might as well go with the WJ knuckles so you get a brake upgrade as a bonus - you do need the 1/4'' spacer that are another $40 and get them welded but for about 1/2 the price you get monster brakes as well.
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for that money might as well go with the WJ knuckles so you get a brake upgrade as a bonus - you do need the 1/4'' spacer that are another $40 and get them welded but for about 1/2 the price you get monster brakes as well.
Don't you need to change to 16 inch wheels to clear the brakes?
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Don't you need to change to 16 inch wheels to clear the brakes?
mine fit just fine (i do have alloy wheels though with 3.75 backspacing) but it's close (about 1/8'' clearance), i read that you can also grind a bit off the caliper (there's tons of meat there) - there are 2 types of calipers but i cannot remember the brand that was recalled, you obviously need the other one and that apparently will fit easier. if you want to keep 5x4.5 bolt pattern then you can use explorer sport-trac rotors (if i remember correctly the name of the truck) and that one has the correct bolt pattern. There's also the guy that sells the hydro boosters for TJ and YJ that sells the calipers and rotors (explorer) with adapter brackets as a kit and they are machined down to fit (or maybe they are smaller right off the bat) so i take that's not unusual.
EDIT: I heard you can go true high steer if you spend another $130 for a passenger side right hand drive steering knuckle (read that somewhere) and heim joints http://www.4wheelparts.com/Steering-Upgrades/Steering-Knuckle-by-Crown-Automotive.aspx?t_c=76&t_s=430&t_pt=7571&t_pl=106503&t_pn=CRO5012516AB (the picture is wrong though).
can't find them in the j/y unless you go to UK so they are pricey, still cheaper than the teraflex in the end.
i have not seen a write-up on that yet though so i don't have any details on how to actually achieve it or how well it works.
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EDIT: I heard you can go true high steer if you spend another $130 for a passenger side right hand drive steering knuckle (read that somewhere) and heim joints http://www.4wheelparts.com/Steering-Upgrades/Steering-Knuckle-by-Crown-Automotive.aspx?t_c=76&t_s=430&t_pt=7571&t_pl=106503&t_pn=CRO5012516AB (the picture is wrong though).
can't find them in the j/y unless you go to UK so they are pricey, still cheaper than the teraflex in the end.
i have not seen a write-up on that yet though so i don't have any details on how to actually achieve it or how well it works.
apparently the rhd solution get's the ackerman angle out of wack and steering sucks so i don't recommend it (just read a couple of posts about this looking for a writeup). I'll have a look at my WJ passenger side knuckle to see how off the angle on the 2 arms are, but i'm sure there wouldn't be a mention if it wasn't a problem. Or you can go with a totally frankenstein setup like Art did (aw12345) on his rig but that's a lot of fab work and not a parking lot swap.