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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: SDWE61988 on November 05, 2011, 04:57:25 PM
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OK I need some help trouble shooting my engine problems. I think I narrowed the problem to the top end of the engine. I was worried the connecting rods were the problem at first, but basaed on the sound and what I found yesterday, I think I have ruled them out. I pulled the valve cover and inspected the lifters valve assy and pushrods. I found that 6 of the push rods rotated freely when I turned them with my hand and 2 of them appear frozen, and will not spin. Are those 2 that wont spin my problem? What should I look for that would be freezing them up?
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Rotate the engine so that they are not compressed.
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I was wondering if that was the case for those 2 valves. I will try that tomorrow If I get a chance to work on it. What should I looking for in the case of a sticking lifter?
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If your engine noise is a clicking sound that goes up and down with engine rpm just let it idle with the valve cover off and listen to the rocker arms with a stethoscope or long screw driver should make it easy to spot the clicking valve lifter. If they aren't noise take a piece of vacuum hose and listen around the exhaust manifold for leaks
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OK, I will try that tonight. Thanks.
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Ok, after starting up the jeep last night without the valve cover on, and listening to them, I no longer think this a valve train issue at all. They are all moving as they should and the noise is definately coming from down below. It It is very loud in the front and in the the oil pan, so I may pull the timing cover this weekend (the next time I will be able to work on it) and look at that.
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Ok, after starting up the jeep last night without the valve cover on, and listening to them, I no longer think this a valve train issue at all. They are all moving as they should and the noise is definately coming from down below. It It is very loud in the front and in the the oil pan, so I may pull the timing cover this weekend (the next time I will be able to work on it) and look at that.
eeekkk. did you look under the jeep for rods hanging out?
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No rods, yet. I really hope at his point it is the timing chain. I really don't have that kind of luck though.
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No rods, yet. I really hope at his point it is the timing chain. I really don't have that kind of luck though.
well my luck was a big hole in the oil pan and block and a chopped off cam lol no warning other noise wise till it let go for me. cruising down the highway braaappppp clunk crunch dumped the clutch and coasted to the side of the road while looking in my rear view watching serp belt fly along with metal junks and a huge oil cloud/ slick lol. I didn't even have to shut the engine off I dumped the clutch peddle to stop the transmission from spinning the engine cause I was doing 50-60mph pulling a trailer when it happen. oh and roughly 2 hour drive away lol... I was lucky enough to have a friend driving buy stop and take my trailer home for me at least lol thats the best of my luck lol.
hope it's nothing large.
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Well, I just got finished changing the timing chain, (the old one looked OK , but I had a newer one sitting around) and that was not the problem. The noise is just as load and from the lower part of the engine. This does not look good for me. It might be time to let this beast go. :brick:
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Well, I just got finished changing the timing chain, (the old one looked OK , but I had a newer one sitting around) and that was not the problem. The noise is just as load and from the lower part of the engine. This does not look good for me. It might be time to let this beast go. :brick:
could be piston skirt so that wouldn't be as dramatic as the bearings but you can't tell until you take at least the pan out.
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If it turned out to be a piston skirt, I would then have to, drop the crankshaft and/or pull the head and pull the pistons correct? whatever it is at this point, it appears to be major engine work. Man, this sucks! I got a ton of time and money invested in this rig. I really don't have the cash perform something like that right now and now winter is knocking our door here. Luckily I have my charger to get to work, an so on, however it is terrible in the snow. I hate even driving it in the rain, because it slips and slides every where. All season tires my A@#$. $1200 on tires for the charger, and they still suck in inclement weather. Oh well, that is another rant for another forum. The question here is, what to I do about this jeep?
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If it turned out to be a piston skirt, I would then have to, drop the crankshaft and/or pull the head and pull the pistons correct?
just the oil pan and cyl head, crank stays in place - depends on how the cylinder looks like, if there are scratches on the wall or not. If the cylinder looks fine at a minimum you could replace that piston with a second hand one, not the best solution (should replace all 4 to be balanced) but if you want something to get you back on the road cheap it can be done that way, same year piston should be fine.
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Thank you for the advice. I will have to consider that as an option. Are there any special tools needed to putting in another set of pistons (something to compress the rings enough to slide them into the cylinders etc)? I thought that the cylinders needed to be honed if you replaced the pistons, regardless if the walls were scratched or not.
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Thank you for the advice. I will have to consider that as an option. Are there any special tools needed to putting in another set of pistons (something to compress the rings enough to slide them into the cylinders etc)? I thought that the cylinders needed to be honed if you replaced the pistons, regardless if the walls were scratched or not.
lots of other things not just honing, at a minimum just try to take the glaze off on the one you're replacing, if it's scratched i wouldnt bother, just get a fair takeoff from the j/y - maybe that's a better option to begin with and keep your cyl head
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Time for a V8
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I wish I had the money for a V8 conversion! The AX5 is not is great shape either, 2nd gear synco is rough. I need to figure out a way to sell that plan to the wife. That would be a tough sell.
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here is the piston
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here is the piston
well, for what is worth you're better than with a rod. cylinder looks fine from what i can tell but you should run your fingertips over and see if you feel any vertical streaks.
look at the side of your block, there are some numbers there that tell you the year of manufacturing, you could try and match that. there are also some other numbers somewhere around the distributor that would tell you which tolerances have been used (some came with cylinders slightly larger so they used o/s pistons to match, there were some mismatched installed bearings as well, keep yours if not using new don't use the takeout ones if that would come with the piston and rod if you go that route) - can't remember exactly where it was located but i can have a look later tonight in the FSM and let you know.
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Thanks for the advice. This engine is out of a 1997 jeep. If I replace the pistons and hone the cylinders, will I need to get oversize psitons or will standard size pistons still work? I have changed out engines in the past and replaced a crankshaft in another vehicle, but ai have never changed out pistons. I just want to see if I can get this rig back on the road before the snow flies here in MD.
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If there isn't a bad ridge in the cylinder wall, you could just swap a piston cover the crank up good do a quicky deglaze job with a hone. Wash the engine out really good to get rid of the grit and reassemble. Would not hurt to take one other piston out remove the rings then stick it upside down in the cylinder with a thin feeler gauge that had the broken piston and see what the clearance is check for specs then turn the piston 90 degrees and measure again if the cyl is not to badly out of round and the clearance is within spec just replace the one piston, re ring the rest and call it a day.
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If there isn't a bad ridge in the cylinder wall, you could just swap a piston cover the crank up good do a quicky deglaze job with a hone. Wash the engine out really good to get rid of the grit and reassemble. Would not hurt to take one other piston out remove the rings then stick it upside down in the cylinder with a thin feeler gauge that had the broken piston and see what the clearance is check for specs then turn the piston 90 degrees and measure again if the cyl is not to badly out of round and the clearance is within spec just replace the one piston, re ring the rest and call it a day.
x2 - not a bad idea to re-ring with standard ones, they're cheap.
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Thanks again for all the advice everyone. I am going to look around for pistons etc. It may be after xmas before I get this rig repaired. I will provide updates. I guess start a new thread since it is no longer "valve train troubleshooting"