4bangerjp.com
General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: JohnnyO on November 25, 2011, 01:58:41 PM
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Has anyone had a Banks header that DIDN'T crack? I mean like after two or three years?
Just asking before I shell out money. Getting closer to pulling the trigger and getting one.
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Has anyone had a Banks header that DIDN'T crack? I mean like after two or three years?
Just asking before I shell out money. Getting closer to pulling the trigger and getting one.
http://www.stans-headers.com/ See if these guy's can make one. They don't list them as a in stock item, but I would imagine they have made them for the 4 banger Jeeps. I like their tri-Y design. And everything is gas welded by hand to prevent cracking.
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yeah, mine cracked...but it's still under warranty.
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http://www.stans-headers.com/ See if these guy's can make one. They don't list them as a in stock item, but I would imagine they have made them for the 4 banger Jeeps. I like their tri-Y design. And everything is gas welded by hand to prevent cracking.
Gas or Tig. As Tig should be stronger.
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Gas or Tig. As Tig should be stronger.
Their site says Gas. Nothing is wire fed.
To our valued customer, “We make the highest quality headers available.” Before you install these headers, please check out our quality. Look inside the collectors, there is no “Wire” or "Bee bees" from the welding sticking to everything. They are gas welded inside because this is better. Gas welding is better on the insides because it will last about twice as long as “Wire feed“ welding. This is because gas welding flexes more. Think about how the engine twists on acceleration, and shakes while idling. All of this motion is transmitted through the exhaust system.
The header flanges are ground flat and deburred so they are smooth inside. Our headers utilize the entire machined surface of the head for a gasket surface (not an “o” ring gasket area like other headers). A flat header surface will not warp like "o" ring ports do.
These headers are clearanced for the header bolts and box end wrenches. Can you imagine that? Someone in the automotive business is concerned about accessing parts and fasteners. We think that's unique.
We make the best headers because all of our header builders take pride in what they make. These builders are the reason you are looking at this quality. Without them we would be only machines and equipment. Our entire staff work as a “team” and will always give our customers 100 percent. As a business owner I consider myself “Blessed” to have this quality in my employees.
Please accept my sincere thanks for choosing “Stan’s Headers”.
Respectfully yours:
Stan Fuller
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Tig is not wire feed. Gas builds more heat in the area and in a lot of cases will make the metal brittle. Tig does not over heat the area and will make a much stronger weld.
Done a lot of gas welding and have found this to be true. Also those guys who can tig do some fantastic looking welds.
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Tig is not wire feed. Gas builds more heat in the area and in a lot of cases will make the metal brittle. Tig does not over heat the area and will make a much stronger weld.
Done a lot of gas welding and have found this to be true. Also those guys who can tig do some fantastic looking welds.
I won't argue that gas is better than TIG. They must be doing something right since they have been doing it this way since the 60's.
Here are some nice TIG beads http://www.flickr.com/photos/browndogwelding/5350991399/
I did a fair amount of TIG when I was in welding class. I could not make mine look like those.
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Except that Stan's Headers doesn't list a 4-banger Jeep header and they're as far away from me as you can get and still be in the Continental U.S. Also I'd bet that even if I could, having a custom-made header will cost north of $1000.
Thanks anyway.
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Except that Stan's Headers doesn't list a 4-banger Jeep header and they're as far away from me as you can get and still be in the Continental U.S. Also I'd bet that even if I could, having a custom-made header will cost north of $1000.
Thanks anyway.
My guess would be in the $400 range. If I get a chance I'll see if I can get a quote. They ship all over the world.
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I called Stan's. They don't do the I-6 or I-4 headers. They said they run to lean which causes the cracking. They had problems with cracking at the collector too. They even tried a thicker metal. Didn't help so they stopped making them.
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Huh,,, my Thorley header is like ,,, 10 years old,, no cracks so far... Too bad they quit making them!
Dave
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I called Stan's. They don't do the I-6 or I-4 headers. They said they run to lean which causes the cracking. They had problems with cracking at the collector too. They even tried a thicker metal. Didn't help so they stopped making them.
I can't see it being from running lean.
I'm running a mild steel header pacesetter and it hasn't cracked and we have a cj-5 inline 6 with true dual headers 3 & 3 and his hasn't cracked
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I can't see it being from running lean.
I'm running a mild steel header pacesetter and it hasn't cracked and we have a cj-5 inline 6 with true dual headers 3 & 3 and his hasn't cracked
I don't agree with it either, but I didn't want to argue with the guy.
It does seem odd that it would crack at the collector like the Banks.
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I don't agree with it either, but I didn't want to argue with the guy.
It does seem odd that it would crack at the collector like the Banks.
hard to say. might be the design
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One of these days I'd like to get someone who orders the Banks to normalize it BEFORE they install it.
Need to heat the entire header up to orange then let it cool slowly...
Its common for tubing to crack when gas or tig welded or brazed if the welds are not normalized.
Tube and cloth airplanes, bicycle frames and some motorcycle frames all had this done.
Dave
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Wonder if the jeeps they said were cracking were just stock with header added. Know mine is not running lean but then I have some changes into mine about like most of you have.
My Pacetter is not that old so I would not be a good example. But still have about 5,000 miles on it now.
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Wonder if the jeeps they said were cracking were just stock with header added. Know mine is not running lean but then I have some changes into mine about like most of you have.
My Pacetter is not that old so I would not be a good example. But still have about 5,000 miles on it now.
I ran mine stock and most I added was bigger throttle body witch if it's was suppose to lean it more air should lean it even more..
I really can't see it causing lean.. not to mention if your so lean to the point your cracking exhaust why aren't you doing engine damage?
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i would just put 3 or 4 tig weld beads and give it a go that way, i can't imagine the pain of keep taking it off and send it for replacement - I did that on my camaro driver side exhaust header, they are known to crack between cylinders, didn't have a problem after that - it is cast so that's even worse than stainless, can't imagine a good weld there to crack again - from what i understand it cracks on the 4 in 1 collector between the pipes, most likely due to the welds that pull apart the collector more since they are thicker and more rigid, tig would also help normalizing like was mentioned before, just use stainless rods (i think i used 308 on mine if memory serves me well). Oh, and don't weld the crack itself, weld a couple of beads on each side of the crack and then put a bead between them, don't let it cool and put another 2 or 3 over the initial ones to cover the width and tie into the collector again and should hold forever.
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i would just put 3 or 4 tig weld beads and give it a go that way, i can't imagine the pain of keep taking it off and send it for replacement - I did that on my camaro driver side exhaust header, they are known to crack between cylinders, didn't have a problem after that - it is cast so that's even worse than stainless, can't imagine a good weld there to crack again - from what i understand it cracks on the 4 in 1 collector between the pipes, most likely due to the welds that pull apart the collector more since they are thicker and more rigid, tig would also help normalizing like was mentioned before, just use stainless rods (i think i used 308 on mine if memory serves me well). Oh, and don't weld the crack itself, weld a couple of beads on each side of the crack and then put a bead between them, don't let it cool and put another 2 or 3 over the initial ones to cover the width and tie into the collector again and should hold forever.
Another old trick at the end of each crack drill a small hole. This will stop the crack from moving on. But hole needs to be small enough the weld will fill it.
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i would just put 3 or 4 tig weld beads and give it a go that way, i can't imagine the pain of keep taking it off and send it for replacement - I did that on my camaro driver side exhaust header, they are known to crack between cylinders, didn't have a problem after that - it is cast so that's even worse than stainless, can't imagine a good weld there to crack again - from what i understand it cracks on the 4 in 1 collector between the pipes, most likely due to the welds that pull apart the collector more since they are thicker and more rigid, tig would also help normalizing like was mentioned before, just use stainless rods (i think i used 308 on mine if memory serves me well). Oh, and don't weld the crack itself, weld a couple of beads on each side of the crack and then put a bead between them, don't let it cool and put another 2 or 3 over the initial ones to cover the width and tie into the collector again and should hold forever.
:thumb: I think the lean comment was cause they didn't want to deal with it anymore for the small demand for them to begin with