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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: catfish33 on August 30, 2012, 12:04:55 PM
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Can I swap a used 93' 2.5 in to my 97' SE? Guy has one locally to me that only has 5,000 miles on it and is asking $550.
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Can I swap a used 93' 2.5 in to my 97' SE? Guy has one locally to me that only has 5,000 miles on it and is asking $550.
yes. you'd probably need your cam sensor as the connectors are probably different (or whole distributor), temp sensor in the thermostat housing and maybe the oil pressure sender. use your intake and exhaust manifolds. Someone said at some point that the waterpump on TJ spins opposite to the YJ one, i can't tell you if that's the case or not but better doublecheck.
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Make sure you don't have problems with state inspections and such things.
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The cams are different but I think that's a minor issue. Routing of the belt is completely different but you can reuse all of your accessories and convert it over. You'll want to swap everything from your TJ over to the stripped YJ block so you won't run into any compatibility issues.
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Thanks for the replies guys. I picked that motor up last saturday. It had been totally rebuilt 5,000 miles ago. It is all stripped and ready to go in. GOing to hopefully get mine out tonight and start putting it back in tomorrow night.
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Well the rebuilt motor is sitting between the frame rails as of 10:30 last night. Gotta rework my exhaust to work with the older model oil pan. Gotta put the PS pump, alternator, AC and Starter back on, then it is a matter of plugging things back in.
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Well the rebuilt motor is sitting between the frame rails as of 10:30 last night. Gotta rework my exhaust to work with the older model oil pan. Gotta put the PS pump, alternator, AC and Starter back on, then it is a matter of plugging things back in.
you could swap your own oil pan but i think the oil pump pickup might be also different so you might need to swap that as well. I meant to mention the oil pan but i recall someone saying it worked without it but i can't remember if it was YJ to TJ swap or the other way around (which would make more sense so that was probably it).
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Yeah I could have swapped the pan and the pickup tube. But I didn't want to mess with changing them out. I work in a shop that makes exhaust fixtures and gages so I just brought my pipe in an welded a bridge from the close to the bell to the straight part of the pipe. Then cut teh section out moved it forward 6 inches and rewelded it.
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How are the pans different? Isn't it just the position of the drain plug?
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The sump is actually thicker (front to back) than the 97' and later. so whwn the exhaust crossed under the pan it now hit it. So I had to move the crossover section forward.
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SHE'S ALIVE. Had to grind the located ears off the dizzy so I could adjust for the difference in the cam duration. But man does she purr. I need to get atiming light on it and see if I can tweak it in some more. Man I missed driving the old girl. Hell she is just like a new Jeep. :driving: :clap: :thumbsup: :doggy:
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Had to grind the located ears off the dizzy so I could adjust for the difference in the cam duration. But man does she purr. I need to get atiming light on it and see if I can tweak it in some more.
explain this some more, what's "the dizzy"? and how do you plan to adjust timing?
if you're thinking you adjust timing by rotating the distributor don't bother, it won't work but it will get your spark weaker (rotor out of sync with the cap prongs) and possibly firing the injectors in the wrong spot, rotating the distributor will not adjust your ignition timing.
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DIzzy = distributor. And why wouldn't turning the dizzy adjust the timing? Or am I just wording that wrong? All I know is she wouldn't run with the distributor in the stock location. Took out the clamp bolt, rotated it counterclockwise while my buddy was cranking it over and VROOM, she fired up. Adjusted the dizzy just a bit more to smooth her out and clamped it down.
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DIzzy = distributor. And why wouldn't turning the dizzy adjust the timing? Or am I just wording that wrong? All I know is she wouldn't run with the distributor in the stock location. Took out the clamp bolt, rotated it counterclockwise while my buddy was cranking it over and VROOM, she fired up. Adjusted the dizzy just a bit more to smooth her out and clamped it down.
the distributor aligns the rotor with the cap so the spark goes to the correct cylinder, the crankshaft position sensor provides the timing signal for the spark. the cam sensor in the distributor is for injector opening sequence. if you swapped the distributor you were off by a tooth or so and you got it corrected when rotating it, i suggest taking it out and setting it correctly. you can try with the timing light, it's either won't start or you get the same ignition advance regardless of the positon, at some point i would misfire or stop running depending how far off you are.
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I used the distributor from the 97. If you look at the dizzy from the 97 and from the 93 side by side the rotation of the oil pump stub is different from each other in conjunction with the rotor. How do you set it correctly? Sorry I am used to working on older carburated V-8s.
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I used the distributor from the 97. If you look at the dizzy from the 97 and from the 93 side by side the rotation of the oil pump stub is different from each other in conjunction with the rotor. How do you set it correctly? Sorry I am used to working on older carburated V-8s.
you can rotate the oil pump to line up with the slot.
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Ok so how should I go about setting this up properly? Right now it is running pretty good but I would like to set it up the right way.
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Ok so how should I go about setting this up properly? Right now it is running pretty good but I would like to set it up the right way.
from '95 FSM (the oil pump slot part is probably not accurate for your distributor, you'll have to eyeball it in the new position)
[...]
(5) Remove the cylinder number 1 spark plug.
(6) Hold a finger over the open spark plug hole.
Rotate the engine at the vibration dampener bolt until
compression (pressure) is felt.
Slowly continue to rotate the engine. Do this until
the timing index mark on the vibration damper pulley
aligns with the top dead center (TDC) mark (0
degree) on timing degree scale (Fig. 9). Always rotate
the engine in direction of normal rotation. Do not rotate
the engine backward to align the timing marks.
[...]
INSTALLATION
(1) If the engine crankshaft has been rotated after
distributor removal, cylinder number 1 must be returned
to its proper firing stroke. Refer to the previous
REMOVAL steps number 5 and 6. These steps
must be done before installing distributor.
(2) Check the position of the slot on the oil pump
gear. On the 2.5L engine, it should be just slightly
before (counterclockwise of) the 10 o’clock position
(Fig. 10). On the 4.0L engine, it should be just
slightly before (counterclockwise of) the 11 o’clock position
(Fig. 11). If not, place a flat blade screwdriver
into the oil pump gear and rotate it into the proper
position.
(3) Factory replacement distributors are equipped
with a plastic alignment pin already installed (Fig.
7). This pin is used to temporarily hold the rotor to
the cylinder number 1 firing position during distributor
installation. If this pin is in place, proceed to
step number 8. If not, proceed to step number 4.
(4) If the original distributor is to be reinstalled,
such as during engine overhaul, the plastic pin will
not be available. A 3/16 inch drift pin punch tool may
be substituted for the plastic pin.
(5) Remove the camshaft position sensor from the
distributor housing. Lift straight up.
(6) Four different alignment holes are provided on
the plastic ring (Fig. 12). Note that 2.5L and 4.0L
engines have different alignment holes (Fig.
12).
(7) Rotate the distributor shaft and install the pin
punch tool through the proper alignment hole in the
plastic ring (Fig. 12) and into the mating access hole
in the distributor housing. This will prevent the distributor
shaft and rotor from rotating.
( 8 ) Clean the distributor mounting hole area of the
engine block.
( 9 ) Install a new distributor-to-engine block gasket
(Fig. 8 ).
(10) Install the rotor to the distributor shaft.
(11) 2.5L 4-Cylinder Engine: Pre-position the distributor
into the engine while holding the centerline
of the base slot in the 1 o’clock position (Fig. 13).
Continue to engage the distributor into the engine.
The rotor and distributor will rotate clockwise during
installation. This is due to the helical cut gears on
the distributor and camshaft. When the distributor is
fully seated to the engine block, the centerline of the
base slot should be aligned to the clamp bolt mounting
hole on the engine (Fig. 14). The rotor should
also be pointed slightly past (clockwise of) the 3
o’clock position.
The distributor is correctly installed when:
˛ the rotor is pointed at the 3 o’clock position (2.5L
engine), or at the 5 o’clock position (4.0L engine).
˛ the plastic alignment pin (or pin punch tool) is still
installed to distributor.
˛ the number 1 cylinder piston is set at top dead
center (TDC) (compression stroke).
˛ the centerline of the slot at the base of the distributor
is aligned to the centerline of the distributor
holddown bolt hole on the engine. In this position,
the holddown bolt should easily pass through the slot
and into the engine.
No adjustments are necessary. Proceed to next
step.
(12) Install the distributor holddown clamp and
bolt. Tighten the bolt to 23 Nzm (17 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Remove the pin punch tool from the distributor.
Or, if the plastic alignment pin was used, remove
it straight down from the bottom of the distributor.
Discard plastic pin.
(14) If removed, install the camshaft position sensor
to the distributor. Align the wiring harness grommet
to the notch in the distributor housing.
(15) Install the rotor.
CAUTION: If the distributor cap is incorrectly positioned
on distributor housing, the cap or rotor may
be damaged when engine is started.
(16) Install the distributor cap. Tighten distributor
cap holddown screws to 3 Nzm (26 in. lbs.) torque.
(17) If removed, install the spark plug cables to
the distributor cap. For proper firing order, refer to
the Specifications section at the end of this group.
See Engine Firing Order.
(18) Connect the distributor wiring harness to the
main engine harness.
(19) Connect battery cable to battery.
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Thanks for the info. I will try and get it set up right this weekend. She sure does run good the way it is though. Got one hell of a deal on this motor.