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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: Jeffy on January 12, 2013, 07:53:55 PM
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So, I've been thinking about getting an Atlas for a while now. Was close to pulling the trigger then some money issues came up.
With the Jeep turning into more of an Expedition vehicle with some crawling, I'm wondering if I should get a 5.0:1. Their top seller seems to be the 4.3:1 still. Then there's the 3.8:1. Would the 4.3 or 3.8 be a better choice. I'm thinking the only time I'll really need low is when crawling over rocks. Otherwise, I'll be in 4WD HI. I don't really have any plans to do anything much harder then the Rubicon, Fordyce or maybe Dusy. Otherwise it will probably be fire trails. Think 5.0:1 would be too low? Or should I just bite the bullet and get the Atlas 4.0 with 11.70...
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Plug your trans and transfercase numbers in this calculator and see what gives you the nicest gear spread. For me the 5:1 is nice since it gives me essentially a 12 speed trans. I eould go with the transfercase that does not give ratio overlap.
I really like the gearing so each gear is a small step up, unless you would like to have gears between gears
http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html
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i would do an NV3550+241OR, probably the same money in the end and you were thinking of swapping the transmission at some point if i recall correctly. If you go with the Atlas i'd say 4 speed if you can hold off until funds are available, but of course 5 or 4.3 are also good choices.
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i would do an NV3550+241OR, probably the same money in the end and you were thinking of swapping the transmission at some point if i recall correctly. If you go with the Atlas i'd say 4 speed if you can hold off until funds are available, but of course 5 or 4.3 are also good choices.
Cost would be as much if not more then for a Atlas 4.0 and would only give me 60:1 final. The AX-5 has been fine for me. If I keep the engine, I'll probably keep the transmission. For the street, it does well.
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i think it's 70 to 1 (3.93x4x4.56) but yeah, not a super-low crawl rate.
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To keep it truly multi-purpose some doubler is the way to go. The 2.71 is very good for general use in dirt and wet trails, the 4.3:1 is what you will use most of the time in rocks but is too low for general trail riding (it is a pain to have to shift to high range for easy sections) and not low enough for some very technical sections, so having something at or below 5:1 is also good. Atlas 4 speed is my recommendation due to the overall length but any doubler will do like two NP231s, or an NP231 with a Dana 300 with 4:1 gears, or a Klune V with the NP231, but these would be more complicated installations (might want to move the engine forward).
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You know what I am gonna say...
But I will say it anyway. :blbl: 4 speed Atlas. You have it all in one package. 2.7:1 for fire roads, 4.3:1 for rough stuff, 11:1 for the real crazy stuff or things you want to take your time on.
20 forward speeds and 4 reverse speeds = happy,happy,happy
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For what he wants to do with it a 6 speed trans with a 4:1 or 5:1 Atlas will make him a very happy camper. The extra 1000 bucks is much better spend on a transmission that will give him usable gears on the street and in high range. a 4 or 5:1 2 speed Atlas will give him all the crawl speed he would ever need, yet allow him to run atleast 15 mph in top gear in low range when you wind the lil squirel box up.
There is nothing on any of the trails he wants to run that would require 150:1 crawl ratio. Something in the 90 - 100:1 ratio will do just fine and still be able to get enough wheel speed to bump ledges in second or 3 th gear.
The 6 speed gives a nice gear spread to scream up sand hills also
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For what he wants to do with it a 6 speed trans with a 4:1 or 5:1 Atlas will make him a very happy camper. The extra 1000 bucks is much better spend on a transmission that will give him usable gears on the street and in high range. a 4 or 5:1 2 speed Atlas will give him all the crawl speed he would ever need, yet allow him to run atleast 15 mph in top gear in low range when you wind the lil squirel box up.
There is nothing on any of the trails he wants to run that would require 150:1 crawl ratio. Something in the 90 - 100:1 ratio will do just fine and still be able to get enough wheel speed to bump ledges in second or 3 th gear.
The 6 speed gives a nice gear spread to scream up sand hills also
I think the magic number for the trails is around 100:1. More is OK but can be slow for the flatter parts. Less and you'll struggle a little in the rock gardens.
I'm trying to be realistic with my goals and expectations which is one of the reason's I think the 2spd is a better choice. Also, I agree that $1000 could be better spent elsewhere.
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my 120:1 and 5.38 gears churns the 40" tires just fine and in low range I can still run 20 mph in 6 th and low range while the squirels are screaming at 4 grand.
FRom what I saw in the gearing calculator when I looked at your setup you would pretty much come out the same with 4.56 gears and 33" tires I think your crawl ratio with a 5:1 Atlas will come out to 90:1 and you can get close to 20 mph in low range at 4K . Looking at the gear ratios 5 th gear low range would just be a tad lower than 1 st in high range which to me is ideal. When ofroading a lot of the hills are a bit much in 1 st in high range and 5 th in lo range would give you just that little extra but is still high enough that you do not constantly have to shift between low range and hi range. Which to me with my terra lo was a pain in the rear
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Realistic is just skipping the Atlas. You've already driven the Rubicon without one. An Atlas is not about being realistic (it's actually extreme and extravagant, ask any normal person :trollface:), it's about getting what you want. The cost difference will soon be long forgotten.
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That is why the 6 speed would be a very nice addition it takes the big step between gears away, combined with a good transfercase makes a very nice and plenty versatile setup that is still simple and very reliable
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Realistic is just skipping the Atlas. You've already driven the Rubicon without one. An Atlas is not about being realistic (it's actually extreme and extravagant, ask any normal person :trollface:), it's about getting what you want. The cost difference will soon be long forgotten.
Actually that wouldn't be realistic for me at least. I don't want to spend too much money. OK $2K is a lot but I've been wanting to do this for decades, literally. I've held off spending any money on the powertain just so I could figure out what I wanted. Though, I don't think I'll ever buy another Jeep unless one is given to me. (which is possible since I've been given an offer.) But I don't really like the new Jeeps. For the money, I don't think they are worth it. If I want more comfort, I'll get a car, which I'm also working on.
One of the nice things about the Atlas is that I can change the input shaft (actually I'm not sure if they sell them to customers, last I checked it was $200 for them to swap it) and put it on a different transmission. I've got a few different ideas that I'd like to someday try. Then again, if I replace the transfer case and fix some little things, I could theoretically be done.
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Really the 4.3 should do about everything you want to do. First time I did the Dusy I was on 33's and a 4:1. It did OK. But there were times I wished for lower ratio to grab. Most of the wheeling I do is in the 4:1 range. I rarely use just the 2.46 alone, and rarely use both boxes together. But I am glad I have the choice if the need is there.
After having just a 4:1 first, then upgrading to 2 boxes I can't see only having one box. Yes it does cost more by a fair amount to me it was worth it and I would do it again. Like Neale said you soon forget the cost after a while.
But if you really boil down to what you need the 4.3 should be just about right for most situations.
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Really the 4.3 should do about everything you want to do. First time I did the Dusy I was on 33's and a 4:1. It did OK. But there were times I wished for lower ratio to grab. Most of the wheeling I do is in the 4:1 range. I rarely use just the 2.46 alone, and rarely use both boxes together. But I am glad I have the choice if the need is there.
After having just a 4:1 first, then upgrading to 2 boxes I can't see only having one box. Yes it does cost more by a fair amount to me it was worth it and I would do it again. Like Neale said you soon forget the cost after a while.
But if you really boil down to what you need the 4.3 should be just about right for most situations.
I think I'll probably go with 5.0:1. Seems to be just enough lower then 4:0 to be worth it but not really too low. For the price of a 4.3:1 it might be better to find a used NVG241OR and NV3550.
I've got a few scenarios planned out. The Atlas 5.0 would be the cheapest. I like the simplicity and dependability of my current setup. Just need to change the transfer case though. The slip yoke is making noise when I let off at speed. Would maybe like to go deeper on the axle gears but that's Stage 2.
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On a few trails around here, the 2.71 or lower is good for some sections but then it gets easy for a while and you end up shifting higher and higher all the way to 4h or 5th, then decide it's better not to rev it too much, so you shift to high range just before you need low range again. I think this is a fairly common scenario for an expedition vehicle. It gets to be a pain with 2.71:1, can only imagine how it could get with 5:1. I used to think gearing overlap was a waste (almost decided on a 5:1, actually ordered a 4.3:1 but was lucky the order got botched so had a chance to get the 4 speed) but it really makes the Jeep more pleasant to drive when the trail difficulty is changing along the way. Doubler is the way to go, you will be happier in the long run.
The way I see it: 5:1, cheaper, very good but could have some regrets; 4 speed, more expense up front, but most versatility and no regrets.
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I went with the 5:1 on my TJ for the reasons others have mentioned. Also, I am trying to keep my rear drive shaft as long as I can - 2 speed Atlas and 4" rear stretch. If you go with the 4 speed, you might think about running some longer springs (e.g., XJ leafs) in the rear to regain some of the lost driveshaft length.
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On a few trails around here, the 2.71 or lower is good for some sections but then it gets easy for a while and you end up shifting higher and higher all the way to 4h or 5th, then decide it's better not to rev it too much, so you shift to high range just before you need low range again. I think this is a fairly common scenario for an expedition vehicle. It gets to be a pain with 2.71:1, can only imagine how it could get with 5:1. I used to think gearing overlap was a waste (almost decided on a 5:1, actually ordered a 4.3:1 but was lucky the order got botched so had a chance to get the 4 speed) but it really makes the Jeep more pleasant to drive when the trail difficulty is changing along the way. Doubler is the way to go, you will be happier in the long run.
The way I see it: 5:1, cheaper, very good but could have some regrets; 4 speed, more expense up front, but most versatility and no regrets.
Agreed!
I would think that on most expo type trails your just in 2wd. But if you need to do some mild wheeling then a 5:1 would be to low. I guess it would depend on the situation but I found that 4:1 on pretty easy stuff is to low.
I know I am way biased but I would agree with having more choices is better.
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On a few trails around here, the 2.71 or lower is good for some sections but then it gets easy for a while and you end up shifting higher and higher all the way to 4h or 5th, then decide it's better not to rev it too much, so you shift to high range just before you need low range again. I think this is a fairly common scenario for an expedition vehicle. It gets to be a pain with 2.71:1, can only imagine how it could get with 5:1. I used to think gearing overlap was a waste (almost decided on a 5:1, actually ordered a 4.3:1 but was lucky the order got botched so had a chance to get the 4 speed) but it really makes the Jeep more pleasant to drive when the trail difficulty is changing along the way. Doubler is the way to go, you will be happier in the long run.
The way I see it: 5:1, cheaper, very good but could have some regrets; 4 speed, more expense up front, but most versatility and no regrets.
Here's the actual gear spread charted out
With a 231 and 2.72:1 you get 3 gears that overlap between HI and LO with 2 gears that almost match. 3rd gear LO is exactly the same as 1St HI. 5th gear LO is basically the same as 2nd gear HI. Other then not having as low a gear as the 5:1, the other ratios seem to fall right below with only a .4-5 deviation. This is what Art was saying earlier.
Orange = HI
Navy = LO
* Ratios calculated with 4.56:1 gears
2.72 - 48.57, 28.79, 17.92, 17.92, 12.36, 10.62, 10.50, 6.61, 4.56, 3.88
4.0 - 71.68, 42.50, 26.45, 18.24, 17.92, 15.50, 10.62, 6.61, 4.56, 3.88
4.3 - 77.06, 45.69, 28.43, 19.61, 17.92, 16.67, 10.62, 6.61, 4.56, 3.88
5.0 - 89.60, 53.12, 33.06, 22.80, 19.38, 17.92, 10.62, 6.61, 4.56, 3.88
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Those numbers look familiar! Many hours were spent looking at them when trying to decide what to do.
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With a 6 speed those numbers look even better since the step from 1st to second and second to third and third to 4 are smaller. Anyway 10 usable gears is pretty good even though 12 is better. I love my setup and do use pretty much every gear available. For some one thing works better than another, but in Jeffy's case and what he would like to do with it, a 2 speed Atlas with a 5:1 ratio ought to serve him very well.
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5:1 looks the best of the bunch with 4.3 as a close second i think. Any reports on the 5:1 gears (as far as reliability)?
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5:1 looks the best of the bunch with 4.3 as a close second i think. Any reports on the 5:1 gears (as far as reliability)?
I've never hear of any issues with any of the Atlas transfer case except for the 6.0:1 which they stopped making. The only ones I've heard of breaking an Atlas were comp buggies which spurred the comp editions.
I'd love a 6-speed but I don't think I'll be able to do it unless someone comes up with a kit. The AX-5 does well though. I just rev it up when necessary. If I keep the 2.5L, which is still running strong, I probably won't bother with a transmission swap unless something happens.
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maybe AA will come up with a kit, the one i made is similar to this one
http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/716133--jeep-th400-to-chevy-small-block/
(http://www.advanceadapters.com/images/ecomm/products/large/716133_WEB1.jpg)
at $292 it's quite cheap, if they had an NSG one would have probably just buy it rather than making it.
there's also a matter of mounting the crank sensor which is a fairly extensive mod on it's own not to mention the cost of the transmission (and would have to be the one out of the 4.0L - Art pointed out that the 2.4L one has a different bellhousing).
I couldn't get them made for that price even welded from flat bar like mine (laser cut would jump the price quite a bit and same for waterjet), if there's enough takers i can look into it but would be more than the similar AA one.
imo from a total cost perspective would be prohibitive.
EDIT: this is mine
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/sharpxmen/Drivetrain_Upgrades/NSG370_Adapter/7_AX5_to_NSG370_Machining_Check_1.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/sharpxmen/Drivetrain_Upgrades/NSG370_Adapter/8_AX5_to_NSG370_Test_Fit_1.jpg)
and this is what i had to do to get the crank sensor relocated (probably the trickiest part)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/sharpxmen/Drivetrain_Upgrades/NSG370_Adapter/10_CPS_Mount_06.jpg)
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I don't think anyone's going to offer a NSG370 6-speed conversion kit, even though it would be a better option then the NV3550. I just don't see people jumping off the New Venture ship.
I wish AA would have made a slim tail housing with a hall effect sensor like the JB Conversion SYE. Seems they could get a really short tail while still having a place for people to put a VSS. They have a GM VSS option but it looks about as big as the geared housing.
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i thought they have an upgraded spline output for Atlas with super short output housing, or am i mixing that with Novak (i know they have one but somehow i remember seeing it at AA as well, can't remember for sure though).
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i thought they have an upgraded spline output for Atlas with super short output housing, or am i mixing that with Novak (i know they have one but somehow i remember seeing it at AA as well, can't remember for sure though).
They do but it has no provisions for any VSS.
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They do but it has no provisions for any VSS.
the Novak does and that's probably why i thought AA does too.
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the Novak does and that's probably why i thought AA does too.
You only gain 2" from the Short Tail shaft to the VSS Tail shaft. I guess they run it long so it can be used as a support point and be able to run a disc and caliper on there.
(http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-Atlas/images/IMG_6485.JPG)
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2'' is massive if you put that in perspective with an 18 or 20'' driveshaft, but without a doubler is really not necessary (i would love a super short output but the Novak with VSS is like $6 or 700).
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2'' is massive if you put that in perspective with an 18 or 20'' driveshaft, but without a doubler is really not necessary (i would love a super short output but the Novak with VSS is like $6 or 700).
Well to put that into perspective if they could put the yoke flush with the case like on the front I think you could gain another 2".
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Well to put that into perspective if they could put the yoke flush with the case like on the front I think you could gain another 2".
you can get a flat yoke but the CV would be that much longer so really no gain there
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now that i think about it - there is a CV super short yoke you can get for the large output shaft, i think from JB or novak, you're right, the regular ones are probably 1'' longer than the short one.
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CV with a drive flange would give a bit more room doesn't it? Also they allow steeper driveline angle. Supershort SYE on the Atlas and the converter box for the speedo ought to do the trick also. Also pretty sure the Atlas is shorter than a NP231
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With the 2 speed atlas you will gain a lot of rear driveshaft length, no need to do anything special. The front driveshaft will be several inches shorter. With the 4 speed atlas you lose about 2 inches of rear driveshaft and the front changes only a bit (not sure which way though). It works fine though in practice.
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Here's a TC length chart that I put together when making my decision:
Atlas 2 Short Tail 11.8
Dana 300 (stock) 12
Atlas 2 Long Tail 13.8
Atlas 4 Short Tail 15
NP 241 OR (stock) 15.25
NP 231J SYE 16 to 17
Atlas 4 Long 17
NP 231J (stock) 20.5 to 21
All dimensions in inches. I don't have the GM VSS options listed. The Atlas 4 speed with the long tail is about the same as a 231J with an SYE.
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CV with a drive flange would give a bit more room doesn't it?
i thought it comes to the same length or very close (maybe 1/2'' diff to the center of the first u-joint on the CV) - i didn't measure as i never had a flange type CV but this is from looking at pics when i was researching for the increase length with the crawl box - seems that whatever you gain with the flat one is actually needed on the CV side to hold the u-joint.
(http://www.4xshaft.com/rubicon/p_RUBICON_YOKE.jpg)
(http://www.4xshaft.com/rubicon/Rubicon1350.jpg)
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Here's a TC length chart that I put together when making my decision:
Atlas 2 Short Tail 11.8
Dana 300 (stock) 12
Atlas 2 Long Tail 13.8
Atlas 4 Short Tail 15
NP 241 OR (stock) 15.25
NP 231J SYE 16 to 17
Atlas 4 Long 17
NP 231J (stock) 20.5 to 21
All dimensions in inches. I don't have the GM VSS options listed. The Atlas 4 speed with the long tail is about the same as a 231J with an SYE.
For the Atlas 4 speed, those dimensions are from before the redesign, it is longer now by about 2 inches.
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Are you set in buying an Atlas?
I was on the phone wih them when I was considering t-case options and when I got off the phone, I felt like it was just too much, a bit overkill. When I asked them for the pros to running one, the reliability/durability was def a plus, given it is gear driven. However, when I asked him what the advantages were and the typical uses off road, the image I kept getting was of buggies on 40s with spool lockers using the selectability of the axles in order to dig around or swing around tight spots. I'm not sure what your end plan is for the Jeep, but I felt that the Atlas was a bit overkill for most wheelers.
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Are you set in buying an Atlas?
I was on the phone wih them when I was considering t-case options and when I got off the phone, I felt like it was just too much, a bit overkill. When I asked them for the pros to running one, the reliability/durability was def a plus, given it is gear driven. However, when I asked him what the advantages were and the typical uses off road, the image I kept getting was of buggies on 40s with spool lockers using the selectability of the axles in order to dig around or swing around tight spots. I'm not sure what your end plan is for the Jeep, but I felt that the Atlas was a bit overkill for most wheelers.
I've been down the road of incremental upgrades and after a while you would rather spend the money once and go overkill and never had to worry about it again. Like I've mentioned many times before I've held off on spending any money on the NP231 (it was NP before they changed it to NVG). I've had the Jeep for 21 years so it's going to be a good investment.
I'm pretty much set on the Atlas II at this point. Just need to gather the funds and order which will hopefully be later this year.
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Dana 300 4:1 is also a good choice but unless you find one second hand with the cost of the gears and rebuild kit would get expensive as well. The advantage with the Atlas offroad (and that's to also answer a question that was posted) is that it has syncros so you can shift on the fly, not the same with the D300 and that is a big plus not having to stop to change from low to high or high to low. there's also the twin stick matter which gives you the 2wd low and front digs (although that can damage the front axles but it's there if you're in a bind).
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The advantage with the Atlas offroad (and that's to also answer a question that was posted) is that it has syncros so you can shift on the fly, not the same with the D300 and that is a big plus not having to stop to change from low to high or high to low.
That I did not know, but I wonder how usefull that REALLY is. I mean, assuming you went with low gearing to have 10 disctinct gears, when you hit 5th low, you need to step on the clutch, and go to 1st and shift also to low (two shifts at once), so that would make it a bit too complicated to be useful (at least for me, and my style of wheeling, anyway)
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is not to shift 10 speeds in sequence, is for example you come out of a hillclimb and need to resume speed at least in 2nd or 3rd with no reason to have the engine screaming or 5th and low you can go back to 2nd and hi without having to come to a complete stop, same with approaching a steep climb.
also, imagine this, you come up to an unexpected downhill, would be nice to use engine brake in lo (being able to shift into it), sometimes it's dangerous to attempt to get to a full stop
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It's true you don't have to come to a complete stop but the synchros are hard and only allow the down shift when going really slow (probably slower the lower geared it is, 5:1 slower than 3.8:1). You put in the clutch and then hold the lever there as the vehicle loses speed. Then at some point you are going slow enough and it just slides into gear, at higher speeds it is almost impossible to shift (which is good because shifting into low at speed could snap something or eject passengers out the front window). It is very nice though that it doesn't grind the gears.
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yeah, can't do that with my D300, you can shift at very low speed or if you're skilled enough to match the speeds but always grinds.
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It's true you don't have to come to a complete stop but the synchros are hard and only allow the down shift when going really slow (probably slower the lower geared it is, 5:1 slower than 3.8:1). You put in the clutch and then hold the lever there as the vehicle loses speed. Then at some point you are going slow enough and it just slides into gear, at higher speeds it is almost impossible to shift (which is good because shifting into low at speed could snap something or eject passengers out the front window). It is very nice though that it doesn't grind the gears.
did you try to put the transmission in neutral? if you didn't you should as that would make shifting the t-case easier, just the clutch won't help as much as you'll end up with both primary/secondary gear train in the transmission including input shaft and clutch that will need to come up to speed to match the tcase output (a lot of rotational mass to be moved by the syncro).
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Having syncro's is also nice onroad as well. Where I'm at, you have to drive to get to snow. We do get rain though and some flooding and mud slides. In the past I've had to shift into 4Hi while doing 45-50 mph.
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did you try to put the transmission in neutral? if you didn't you should as that would make shifting the t-case easier, just the clutch won't help as much as you'll end up with both primary/secondary gear train in the transmission including input shaft and clutch that will need to come up to speed to match the tcase output (a lot of rotational mass to be moved by the syncro).
Pretty sure I've tried it but I'll try it again to see the difference.
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Having syncro's is also nice onroad as well. Where I'm at, you have to drive to get to snow. We do get rain though and some flooding and mud slides. In the past I've had to shift into 4Hi while doing 45-50 mph.
syncros are not going to help with that (front and rear are locked together so there's no "free spinning" shaft to be rpm matched) you need to have same diameter tires (wear and air pressure) on front and rear and have the wheels straight, as long as that is there the front and rear d/s will rotate at the same speed and you can shift, if not you can't, and that is the same with or without syncros (same as with the transmission, when you press the clutch you have a free spinning input shaft that the syncro can match the rotational speed for, if you don't press the clutch you'd have to rpm match with the gas pedal to allow the collar to engage the gear) - not sure if I explained it well enough.
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Pretty sure I've tried it but I'll try it again to see the difference.
Tried it last night. Didn't seem to go into gear at any higher speed but I agree it should be easier on the synchros.
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Tried it last night. Didn't seem to go into gear at any higher speed but I agree it should be easier on the synchros.
should at least feel lighter when you shift, if you go from high to low you can help it if transmission is in gear and you rev the engine before pressing the clutch and keep slight pressure on the t-case shifter, would help bringing the transmission output shaft up in revs. The other thing you can try is to have the trans in neutral and keep slight pressure on the stick to give the shaft time to rev (something like when you try to shift in 1st at higher speed, you need to put slight pressure on the stick but not pushing it too hard before actually shifting into gear, the syncro would bring the gear/shaft up to revs by friction, if the difference is high it takes a bit to get there)
if you already did all that try the front (rear in neutral) and see if it's any different, wondering if the other syncro is not up to par or maybe needs some wear to get broken in (same with the transmission, sometimes when you replace the syncros it takes a little bit to get it working smooth, since you don't shift the t-case on a regular basis would take a while to get there).
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should at least feel lighter when you shift, if you go from high to low you can help it if transmission is in gear and you rev the engine before pressing the clutch and keep slight pressure on the t-case shifter, would help bringing the transmission output shaft up in revs. The other thing you can try is to have the trans in neutral and keep slight pressure on the stick to give the shaft time to rev (something like when you try to shift in 1st at higher speed, you need to put slight pressure on the stick but not pushing it too hard before actually shifting into gear, the syncro would bring the gear/shaft up to revs by friction, if the difference is high it takes a bit to get there)
if you already did all that try the front (rear in neutral) and see if it's any different, wondering if the other syncro is not up to par or maybe needs some wear to get broken in (same with the transmission, sometimes when you replace the syncros it takes a little bit to get it working smooth, since you don't shift the t-case on a regular basis would take a while to get there).
Makes sense, to synchronize at 4.3:1 it would need to be spinning faster on the input end. I'll try it.
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Makes sense, to synchronize at 4.3:1 it would need to be spinning faster on the input end. I'll try it.
yeah, didn't realize you have 4.3, so for that you'll need to make sure the speed is reasonable for the resulting engine rpm (so in 1st and high at 1000 rpm going to lo would result in 4300rpm, not as dramatic with 2.6 or 2.7) - so you'll need to bleed off some speed or select a higher gear in the transmission with the t-case in neutral, then rev the engine a bit, press the clutch while applying slight pressure on t-case shifter and once the clutch is fully depressed then try to shift the t-case (should give you the feel when it's ready to go in)
it's like doing a double clutch shifting on a trans going from a high gear to a lower one
i was playing with my D300 this way but i have standard gears in it (so less difference in rpm), I can shift it this way but it always grinds since there are no syncros in it unlike your Atlas.
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For thew most part I can shift the Atlas on the fly, the front dig thing is over rated since when you run for a 1/4 mile or so with the lockers on the driveline is in a bind and you cannot just take the front or rear out of gear, tried it in a few situations and it takes some horsing around. So if you are teetering on the brink of flopping and you feel like doing a front wheel dig to get out of it, then most likely it isn't going to happen. Still compared to anything else that will directly bolt to a 4 banger it's the best and most durable option. Would not want to use anything else.