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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: Jeffy on July 11, 2013, 11:19:42 PM
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I might have to put the Atlas 2 on the back burner. I've got to get the Jeep fixed so it's drive-able for long distances but I can't put a lot of money into it. So I thinking that I'll do a SYE as a stop-gap. I should be able to get a SYE for $240 (JB Conversions?) and a driveshaft (Tom Wood?) for $200. that should get the Jeep ready. It's either that or spend $300 on renting a car. I figure it's better to spend it on the Jeep.
So I've got a few questions. How early is Early? When you see SYE's they list 'Early' 231's having bearings on the sprocket that have to be removed. Anyone know when the cutoff it? Also the shifter rail length is different. One's 10" and the other is 9" which requires you to cut the shaft down.
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I'm pretty sure any YJ with electronic speedo is not early.
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Tom Woods CV d/s from what i recall is $299+shipping if you order direct.
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All I can say is that the JB Conversions unit is awesome.
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This (http://www.performanceoffroadcenter.com/oscommerce/product_info.php?products_id=8040&osCsid=b0b27947de5b1f892cf180b7665572f8)is the unit I used on my '94 YJ... It's Performance Off Road Center one, and I have yet to have any issues with it (Installed it at least 6 years ago), and it's $80 less than the one you are looking at.
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I'm pretty sure any YJ with electronic speedo is not early.
That's what I figured. That means I don't have to knock out bearings hopefully not fut anything.
Tom Woods CV d/s from what i recall is $299+shipping if you order direct.
Ah, I was looking at the OEM shaft price!
All I can say is that the JB Conversions unit is awesome.
I always like JB's stuff. The yoke they show seems to be shorter then all of the other ones as well.
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i think there's also a cut/tap option which is cheaper and can be done without splitting the case and without taking it out of the vehicle, i cant remember for sure, just from memory.
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i think there's also a cut/tap option which is cheaper and can be done without splitting the case and without taking it out of the vehicle, i cant remember for sure, just from memory.
That's the OLD Rubicon Express SYE. Everyone refered to it as the 'Hack & Tap'. I don't even think Rubicon Express/Transamerica Auto make it anymore. At one time it was cheap but now that HD are below $200, it wasn't profitable since theirs started at $99 but teh YJ was around $160.
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what i liked about it was that you don't have to take the t-case out at all (again, that's what i recall - was a long time ago before i decided to get a D300).
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what i liked about it was that you don't have to take the t-case out at all (again, that's what i recall - was a long time ago before i decided to get a D300).
its still only 27 spline though. I saw 4x4groupbuy had the, for $185. For that price I'd rather have a 32 spline on a 241 shaft.
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So looking into what I'll need to do. I take it I'll need locking pliers as well as snap ring pliers. What are the ones you recommend. I haven neither as of yet.
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So looking into what I'll need to do. I take it I'll need locking pliers as well as snap ring pliers. What are the ones you recommend. I haven neither as of yet.
Craftsman is always good for just about any hand tool. Check your local big box store. They have snap ring pliers, or they did a while back I have not checked in a while.
What about the super short kits? Is the JB one of those? That way when you get a Klune you won't need to move the motor. :wall: :fya:
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So looking into what I'll need to do. I take it I'll need locking pliers as well as snap ring pliers. What are the ones you recommend. I haven neither as of yet.
i bought one that's reversible with various replacement ends and can do both (not sure if it's meant for both but i was able to use it no problem).
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Craftsman is always good for just about any hand tool. Check your local big box store. They have snap ring pliers, or they did a while back I have not checked in a while.
What about the super short kits? Is the JB one of those? That way when you get a Klune you won't need to move the motor. :wall: :fya:
Yeah that's a slippery slope...
For what I need right now, the regular SYE will fit the bill. I'd be able to drive the Jeep long distances without the noise from the mismatched/steep driveshaft angle at 70 mph. Honestly, I'm making it a expedition vehicle out of it. I don't really need, a lower gears. Fire trails and gravel roads at most I think. I need the 300-700 mile dependability more then anything else. I've got a yearly trip to LA and now I have a trip to Delano coming up in a few months. I'd normally rent a car but I can put that into the Jeep and then be able to do other road trips.
What I mean by slippery slope is if I do a Slim SYE, I've got to get a pulse modulator so I can get the speedo to read correctly. The SYE is $100 more. Then pulse modulator is around $100, IIRC. Then do I get the 1.25" chain and sprocket set as well? What about a 6 gear planetary since I'm already in there. How about a 2Lo kit? I have two months to have it road worthy. The HD SYE's will pay for itself in the first trip.
The other problem, the JBC Shorty as well as TeraFlex's Super Short aren't in stock.
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For fire trails and gravel roads plus highway use, the SYE will serve you well. No need to spend more than necessary.
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Yeah that's a slippery slope...
For what I need right now, the regular SYE will fit the bill. I'd be able to drive the Jeep long distances without the noise from the mismatched/steep driveshaft angle at 70 mph. Honestly, I'm making it a expedition vehicle out of it. I don't really need, a lower gears. Fire trails and gravel roads at most I think. I need the 300-700 mile dependability more then anything else. I've got a yearly trip to LA and now I have a trip to Delano coming up in a few months. I'd normally rent a car but I can put that into the Jeep and then be able to do other road trips.
What I mean by slippery slope is if I do a Slim SYE, I've got to get a pulse modulator so I can get the speedo to read correctly. The SYE is $100 more. Then pulse modulator is around $100, IIRC. Then do I get the 1.25" chain and sprocket set as well? What about a 6 gear planetary since I'm already in there. How about a 2Lo kit? I have two months to have it road worthy. The HD SYE's will pay for itself in the first trip.
The other problem, the JBC Shorty as well as TeraFlex's Super Short aren't in stock.
I hear ya.
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you don't need super-short but measure the d/s angle at full extension to make sure you have enough in the CV, ran into this issue and had to take the CV apart. you'll also need to adjust the pinion angle
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For fire trails and gravel roads plus highway use, the SYE will serve you well. No need to spend more than necessary.
Yeah, unfortunately I'm not getting into the rocks. Haven't been for a while. Still, the 2.72:1 is good enough to get through the Rubicon. Even if I decide to go Klune, I could go to a Shorty or a Atlas II I'd be neutral, money-wise since I would have spend the money on a car rental and have to return the car afterwards.
I've got an OSH hardware a few miles away so I can get Craftsman tools there. So, am I right that I need snap ring pliers as well as locking ring? From the pics I've seen the snap ring is behind the tail housing and the locking ring is holding the sprocket on.
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Well the deed is done. I've ordered the JB Conversions Standard HD kit. Hopefully shipping will be swift. I've got about a month to get things sorted. I've also got to 'fix' my AC again. Maybe even put my OBA back in while I'm at it. I have a set deadline of the first week of Sept.
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Not sure if you still need it but Novak covers the differences really well here.
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np_nvg_input_gears.htm
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Not sure if you still need it but Novak covers the differences really well here.
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np_nvg_input_gears.htm
Yeah, they cover the input shafts well but not the shift fork and sprocket needle bearings issues.
I'm now waiting for the JBC SYE. Then once I get it in I'll order the shaft. That might take 1-2 weeks. I could order it before but they sorta guess on the length. I think JBC's yoke is shorter then the AA so the length will be a bit longer.
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Plus you have a D44, and you may need to adjust the pinion angle.
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Plus you have a D44, and you may need to adjust the pinion angle.
The pinion angle isn't going to be a problem. I have some degree shims I removed before and I can add a shackle lift back on.
I just hope it all arrives before my deadline. Otherwise I'll still be renting a car for my trip.
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do you need the SYE for this particular trip?
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do you need the SYE for this particular trip?
The Jeep drives but once I get up to 70 mph and let off I get the rattling noise from the upper U-joint. I'll have to see if I can grease it enough to make it stop.
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The Jeep drives but once I get up to 70 mph and let off I get the rattling noise from the upper U-joint. I'll have to see if I can grease it enough to make it stop.
can't you just replace the u-joints for now, would be cheaper than renting a car.
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can't you just replace the u-joints for now, would be cheaper than renting a car.
I did replace it. I think it's a combination of the steep angle and the shaft being out of sync a little. Hence wanting to do the SYE.
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Well, I greased it as well as I could. The sound is about half as loud. I'll probably just drive it once I get the A/C sorted again. It really needs a SYE though. been saying that for a decade now. Amazingly I'm still using the slip yoke.
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I've installed dozens of SYE's and rebuilt many a 231. You'll have to knock the caged bearings out of the main hub, every YJ has them but the 95.5. The '95.5 (at least mine) was a bit of hybrid 231 with some similarities of the TJ 231. It's easily done with a block of wood, brass drift, and hammer.
You'll need split ring pliers, that is all. The ends look like knurled duck-bills and they're used to spread the split-rings enough to slip them off the shaft.
You can upgrade to a wide chain and 6-gear planetary but the stock 231 is plenty for a 4banger. I put them in mine because I had them on hand. I did the 2lo while it was apart, great for rough rocky trails where you need the slow speed but not necessarily 4wd. Also great with a front locker. The 4-gear planetary is a slight upgrade and found in some 4.0L Jeeps.
You can get the upgrade parts from t-cases like the 231d, 231hd, 233c, etc. Good option if you can get the donor t-case for cheap.
You can still adjust your speedo with the change of the speedo gear, or just run a GPS for speedo. An erroneous speedo is all the signal the ECM needs.
Grab a used TJ/XJ/MJ front driveshaft and have it shortened for the rear if you want to save some coin.
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I'm gonna pass on all other upgrades since I don't really need them. I don't want to have to put more money into it then what I have to. I might revisit it again later but at this point it's not in the cards. I need it driveable and ready for a 600 mile road trip in a months time. I'm still waiting on the SYE to be delivered. It's in transit.
I was looking at pics and there seems to be a snap-ring when you take the slip-yoke off. Between the slip-yoke and the speedometer housing. (Snap-ring with two holes) Then there's the lock ring holding (Large slot) the main sprocket on?
I don't have the time to look for a donor. You rarely find Jeeps in any of the yards anyway. So I'm just going to order one.
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There are no snaprings, only split rings. All you need is a good set of split ring pliers with the knurled duck-bill ends to spread the rings. I use Craftsman.
Need a 10mm 12pt socket for the one odd-ball bolt on the case halves, I usually replace with with a 15mm bolt to match all the others.
CLean all sealing surfaces with a wire brush, then follow up with brake cleaner on a rag. Use the RTV silicone very sparingly, like 1/8" bead and spread evenly with your finger. Less is more, as long as the entire sealing surface is covered. No set-up time required on the RTV.
A little RTV on the yoke splines helps as well.
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My kit should be arriving tomorrow and I'll probably et to doing it the first week of Aug.
On a side note, my new pre-crimped A/C lines arrived and I'll be doing that tomorrow.
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There are no snaprings, only split rings. All you need is a good set of split ring pliers with the knurled duck-bill ends to spread the rings. I use Craftsman.
Need a 10mm 12pt socket for the one odd-ball bolt on the case halves, I usually replace with with a 15mm bolt to match all the others.
CLean all sealing surfaces with a wire brush, then follow up with brake cleaner on a rag. Use the RTV silicone very sparingly, like 1/8" bead and spread evenly with your finger. Less is more, as long as the entire sealing surface is covered. No set-up time required on the RTV.
A little RTV on the yoke splines helps as well.
Make sure you get those dick-billed split ring pliers... I tried it without that, worked for about 4 hours on them with no luck, decided to drive to Sears and get one of those, and finished the job 30 minutes later!
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Make sure you get those dick-billed split ring pliers... I tried it without that, worked for about 4 hours on them with no luck, decided to drive to Sears and get one of those, and finished the job 30 minutes later!
A what, what now?
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A what, what now?
Shoot, darn auto correct (or auto typo; cant tell which is to blame!)... DUCK billed...
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:lol2:
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Ok, looking at this SYE install on a '94 (not mine) it looks like I'll need a pair of snap-ring pliers and a brass punch as well. Might as well get a 12-pt. 10mm socket while I'm there. I only have a 6-pt.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r78/angler1979/tn_IMG_0958.jpg)(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r78/angler1979/tn_IMG_0970.jpg)
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There are no snaprings, only split rings. All you need is a good set of split ring pliers with the knurled duck-bill ends to spread the rings. I use Craftsman.
Don't use snap-ring pliers, wrong tool for the job. The split-ring pliers will work 10x better.
Correct on the brass drift and a 10mm 12pt socket. The caged bearings drive out easily resting the hub over the gap between two blocks of wood. Or get fancy and use a press.
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Don't use snap-ring pliers, wrong tool for the job. The split-ring pliers will work 10x better.
Correct on the brass drift and a 10mm 12pt socket. The caged bearings drive out easily resting the hub over the gap between two blocks of wood. Or get fancy and use a press.
Ok, so that's not a snap-ring but a split-ring then.
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Correct, a small split ring. The pic is of the incorrect tool. The split ring pliers have flat knurled ends that make the job so much easier.
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Well, I got almost everything. Didn't find ATF (actually they has ATF D/M) so I went with 30w. Also couldn't find a brass drift punch. Depending on if I feel like it I might order one on Amazon. If not I'll just be careful and knock it out with a regular punch or maybe try the gear puller.
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Just use wood.
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Just use wood.
I bought a brass punch off Amazon along with some 6T jack stands.
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Well, I started tearing it apart. Ran into some issues but overall wasn't hard. The first thing, the locking ring pliers from Craftsman worked great. No snap rings just all locking rings. Good thing I bought the brass punch. I tried the gear puller but it wasn't working. Knocked it out with the punch in no time. Yeah, my transfer case had the bearings. it also had the 10.2" mode fork. Luckily I had a bunch of cutting wheels. I got it down to 9.3801". It needed to be 9.380".
Impact wrench on the yoke made live so much easier then trying to get i done with wrenches and breaker bars under the Jeep.
With all the on the fly improvising, I ran out of daylight. Was getting too cold to do the RTV. I'm hoping to have it all closed up tomorrow. I ordered some new rear shackles as well so I'll need to get them on before taking measurements and ordering a shaft. I'm about a week ahead of where I need to be for my scheduled road trip.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3babQfatCc0/UghVqACMgmI/AAAAAAAAtyU/cTTrMW0DtVY/w800/IMG_3803.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-FrraL2bIbts/UghVsM-LWEI/AAAAAAAAtyc/4fk1jTaHBoU/w800/IMG_3806.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-fujVt3x4G-I/UghVyzucOyI/AAAAAAAAtzc/LU92Z0UMOaM/w800/IMG_3813.JPG)
Built on Novenmber 5th 1991.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-S8yF0lgd4RU/UghV1UPTJVI/AAAAAAAAtzs/4wx7mzAC-jY/w800/IMG_3816.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-GTUPA6pdH0Q/UghV2XeKADI/AAAAAAAAtz4/8QY4CA-AsF4/w800/IMG_3817.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-q1ZmmuZTV8U/UghV2um6jkI/AAAAAAAAtz8/tZ5nT-bMhxU/w800/IMG_3818.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-NB7BZxuWkMU/UghWBfEf5MI/AAAAAAAAt1M/Z-xzS69_ra4/w800/IMG_3828.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-X7FKoUH6pcg/UghWE8TIHyI/AAAAAAAAt1s/oCiEuX-UM9g/w800/IMG_3832.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ANwh6mJj8Vc/UghWL1lGA2I/AAAAAAAAt2c/gMKzXeY1YyY/w800/IMG_3838.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tXEAMyIv6ns/UghWRMlpeSI/AAAAAAAAt3M/9xgVqobzFUk/w800/IMG_3844.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-CtHu72f0_Xc/UghWXDP0wjI/AAAAAAAAt38/vTHFdS2mhTg/w800/IMG_3850.JPG)
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you cut that with the dremel :yikes:
$10 for an angle grinder at HF and $5 for a set of cutting wheels would have make that a 2 minute job.
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Cutting that shaft with a Dremel takes some patients! Glad it's going OK so far.
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you cut that with the dremel :yikes:
$10 for an angle grinder at HF and $5 for a set of cutting wheels would have make that a 2 minute job.
I cut long then cleaned it up with a bench grinder. I have an angle grinder but no cut off wheels. I would have had to clean it up on the bench anyway though.
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Cutting that shaft with a Dremel takes some patients! Glad it's going OK so far.
It was actually pretty quick. I had to replace the wheel once but I have a bunch of them. Didn't take more then a minute to cut. Just took my time to keep it straight. Went long since I knew I'd have to trim it back on the bench grinder. I needed 9.380" I got it to 9.3801"
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I cut long then cleaned it up with a bench grinder. I have an angle grinder but no cut off wheels. I would have had to clean it up on the bench anyway though.
when I cutoff my fenders for the tires I tried to use a dremel and quickly ran our of wheels before even finishing one of them :lol:
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It was actually pretty quick. I had to replace the wheel once but I have a bunch of them. Didn't take more then a minute to cut. Just took my time to keep it straight. Went long since I knew I'd have to trim it back on the bench grinder. I needed 9.380" I got it to 9.3801"
Pretty good!
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when I cutoff my fenders for the tires I tried to use a dremel and quickly ran our of wheels before even finishing one of them :lol:
You gotta have a feel for it. Put too much pressure or not cut straight and you'll have a face full of broken disc. I figured if I screwed it up I'd just buy a new mode fork. It's also a straight cut. I was worried that the shaft was hardened but it was easy to cut.
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Nice job. The problem with the Dremel is when the cut is farther in on the shaft or sheet and you can't get the cutting disk perpendicular to the shaft.
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... I needed 9.380" I got it to 9.3801"
how the hell did you measure 9.3801? ??? (I mean .0001 as in a tenth of a thousand of an inch)
you have a 9 to 10'' micrometer?
i doubt the stock shaft was built to that tolerance anyway
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how the hell did you measure 9.3801? ??? (I mean .0001 as in a tenth of a thousand of an inch)
you have a 9 to 10'' micrometer?
i doubt the stock shaft was built to that tolerance anyway
Yes, I have a micrometer. I agree. I just need to make sure it doesn't poke out into the rear housing. Which is why I didn't really have a problem using a Dremel.
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Yes, I have a micrometer. I agree. I just need to make sure it doesn't poke out into the rear housing. Which is why I didn't really have a problem using a Dremel.
wow - that is a big micrometer, largest one i have is 4 to 5''
i have a 12'' caliper though but can't measure to that resolution.
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Well, it's done! What a PITA it is to get the oil pump on while aligning the front spindle and the mode fork shaft to the rear case half while on your back. It's like juggling while on fire. I'd get the spindle and the shaft lined up then the stupid feed line for the pump falls off. Keep in mind I'm doing this while trying not to touch the RTV that's on the other side. Finally got it all together though.
I didn't like how low the pinion was so I decided to loosen teh U-bolts and put the shims I had back in. I think they're 2.5* but I'm not certain. They're the ones the lift came with for when you didn't install a SYE and had to drop the T-case. In any case it looks a lot better. It didn't go withough a fight though. I have Currie spring plates and they're boxed. So you have to keep the bolts straight in order to not get the socket jammed in the plate. Well that didn't happen. The other PITA part was trying to get 90ft-lbs on them while laying on my side. I ended up going in increments so I could tell I was tightening then without having to worry that I was going to break a bolt. It's always strange when you get them all to a set torque then it takes more turns to get to the next mark.
In any case, all the heavy lifting is done. The pinion is still a little below the yoke. I ordered some 1" dog legged lift shackles for the rear. That should get me on the pinion while giving me a little more lift in the rear. (I had 1" Con-ferrs in the rear not too long ago and removed them for some cheap stock height shackles.
So I measured some the yoke strap holes to the yoke strap holes and I get about 19" on the bottom and 19.25" for the top.
One thing to note is that the index on the VSS isn't helpful anymore. I just went by feel and it works.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-A4gP2aP_qp8/UgmqZBd1wII/AAAAAAAAt7Q/DGoPmN3E3b8/w800/DSC_0310.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-PHQtbyhkBxg/UgmqZuMP1oI/AAAAAAAAt7g/ia1ezOcEnyo/w800/DSC_0311.jpg)
In 4WD, the shaft doesn't even come close to the hole.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-zapI3WgoRrU/UgmqaKmeKNI/AAAAAAAAt7s/u_RNILd3dhs/w800/DSC_0313.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5qyh1UEvEXg/UgmndkShHaI/AAAAAAAAt4s/Vkl-UivQa6U/w800/IMG_3853.JPG)
After adding the degree shims.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-BF4uSdr-lXo/UgmqhyBCR2I/AAAAAAAAt9I/JPFcv-n6wRA/w800/IMG_3857.JPG)
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...
One thing to note is that the index on the VSS isn't helpful anymore. I just went by feel and it works.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-BF4uSdr-lXo/UgmqhyBCR2I/AAAAAAAAt9I/JPFcv-n6wRA/w800/IMG_3857.JPG)
looks like you used the same key position, what did you mean by is not useful anymore?
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3babQfatCc0/UghVqACMgmI/AAAAAAAAtyU/cTTrMW0DtVY/w800/IMG_3803.JPG)
btw, i wondered why you didn't take the t-case out
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Hmm, I guess it is. Though I thought it was off by one slot.
I didn't want to deal with pulling the T-case. It's kind of a PITA to get to teh top bolts then I'd have to readjust the shifter. Not to mention, I didn't feel like catching the housing while under it. I don't have a trans jack. It's a lot easier with two people though.
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np231 is easy to remove, try the D300. when i added the doubler i bought a trans jack from HF :lol:, that wasn't going to happen without one
just out of curiosity, did they have the instructions for doing it under the Jeep? it wouldn't have crossed my mind doing it that way.
the top bolts work best with a ratcheting wrench (and that somehow sounds weird but you know what i mean) - i mean they all work best with that but helps most with the top ones.
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Nope the instructions are fairly generic. I had to experiment a lot to get everything lined up but it wasn't bad. The instructions wouldn't have helped either way. I had the FSM open so I could have some reference on which way the sprockets go in. I didn't bother using a torgue wrench. Everything was under 25 ft-lbs IIRC.
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just out of curiosity, did they have the instructions for doing it under the Jeep? it wouldn't have crossed my mind doing it that way.
IIRC, mine did...
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Looks good. Do you have the drive shaft? That will allow you to measure the pinion and DS angles directly. My YJ has had the pinion too low and too high without vibrations so it seems it doesn't have to be exact for it to work ok.
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Jeffy
let me know how it goes with ordering the d/s from Tom Wood's, looks like i need to get a new one (one of the cups is rotating and i would need to replace the CV joint (i think, can't get my head around it why is doing it other than being out of spec) so might as well get another d/s since i already re-balanced this and now another issue so time to move on.
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Looks good. Do you have the drive shaft? That will allow you to measure the pinion and DS angles directly. My YJ has had the pinion too low and too high without vibrations so it seems it doesn't have to be exact for it to work ok.
No I don't have the driveshaft since I needed the yokes to be mounted to be able to measure the distance between them. I used a machinist square to check the angle. It's probably ok but I wanted to do the lift shackles before. I'm hoping to have the shackles today and I can order today or tomorrow. I probably don't need the extreme spline since I have a limiting strap so teh rear does drop out.
I could almost get a prebuilt Tom Woods from Qtech but both shafts have a cutoff at 19". One is 17-19" and the other is 19-21".
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just order your working length you need, i don't think its worth the $50 savings if even.
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I ended up ordering a shaft. Called Tom Woods and ordered an XB. That's the extreme spline and the boot. The other option was a regular spline and a dust cap or boot. The shaft was $299 + $10 Handling. Free shipping in the lower 48.
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Also order some U-bolt straps for the CV joint. Somehow I forgot about needing those. Good thing I have Amazon Prime.
I also installed the front driveshaft which I had off for about a year now. Drove it around the block in 4Hi. Not something I'd regularly do since I have a TruTrac up front and it fights to turn on pavement. Still, no rattlly sounds like before.
They said they would have it shipped by tomorrow and I hopefully will have it by Friday.
My lift shackles are out for delivery so I should have those later today.
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it's not using u-bolt straps, just some regular bolts that come with the driveshaft.
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it's not using u-bolt straps, just some regular bolts that come with the driveshaft.
I meant U-bolts not straps.
Shackles arrived but I'm not in a hurry to install them. It's over 100* outside. I'm glad I got the T-case sorted when I did.
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I meant U-bolts not straps.
Shackles arrived but I'm not in a hurry to install them. It's over 100* outside. I'm glad I got the T-case sorted when I did.
that's what i mean, is not using u-bolts at the cv although the yoke would make you think that's the case. it's like this
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/sharpxmen/Drivetrain_Upgrades/Crossmember/38_Driveshaft_ReBalanced_zps8468105e.jpg)
4 bolts that come with the driveshaft when you order it (12 point ones, grade 10 or whatever those are with locking washers)
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that's what i mean, is not using u-bolts at the cv although the yoke would make you think that's the case. it's like this
4 bolts that come with the driveshaft when you order it (12 point ones, grade 10 or whatever those are with locking washers)
Oh, I get what you're saying now.
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The driveshaft was delivered this morning. It came with the bolts for the CV side like you said. I'm impressed how fast they are able to work. I remember when Tom opened his shop and was the only guy making them. A friend of mine ordered one and had to wait an additional week because Tom went fishing... I'm glad that's all sorted out. Now I know why they are so popular. They do a really nice job.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UCub4uCmFTs/Ug6TqNDQRsI/AAAAAAAAuAA/ss7s2ZzDu1E/w800/DSC_0322.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ARwIRpO3E2I/Ug6TsbtbgOI/AAAAAAAAuAs/QimXoe1AKAU/w00/DSC_0328.jpg)
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What, you didn't get the polished clear coat option? :trollface:
It looks good and seems to be nicely aligned with the pinion angle.
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What, you didn't get the polished clear coat option? :trollface:
It looks good and seems to be nicely aligned with the pinion angle.
It would be cool but the finish doesn't hold up. It does have the Extreme splines though. I think the pinion angle is just about prefect. No more rattling coffee can of bearings anymore. It's really smooth and no noises.
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One very nice thing about the TW shafts is that everything is greasable, at least that is what I've read. On mine, neither the CV nor the splines have any grease fittings. Actually not even the u-joints.
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One very nice thing about the TW shafts is that everything is greasable, at least that is what I've read. On mine, neither the CV nor the splines have any grease fittings. Actually not even the u-joints.
they might be the flush or small form factor ones (located on the cross and not on the cup, that's how mine are) - the ones on the cup are def easier to grease though. you can swap the u-joints with greasable ones if yours are not but if you take the cv apart make sure you put it together the same way.
Jeffy, how much was it in the end shipped?
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One very nice thing about the TW shafts is that everything is greasable, at least that is what I've read. On mine, neither the CV nor the splines have any grease fittings. Actually not even the u-joints.
Yeah all the zerk fitting are on the ends of the U-joint as well so they're easy to get to. They supply a thingy that allows you to grease the CV. I'm not sure how your'e supposed to grease the splines. I'm guessing though the end of the shaft. There are instructions which I haven't gone though yet.
I remember when Tom used to wotk at Six States and he was why they got a lot of business back in the day.
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Well, I took it on the highway and it's so much quieter. No more having to feather the throttle to get it to stay quiet. I'm guessing the slip yoke had a bit of play so when there was no pressure it would wobble.
If SYE's where this cheap years ago I would have done it sooner.
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I'm not sure how your'e supposed to grease the splines. I'm guessing though the end of the shaft.
it has a hole at the diff end and probably one in the rubber boot, mine had a zerk fitting before the u-joint but i think you can just use the needle they gave you to put grease thru the hole
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I got mine locally and everything is greasable as well...only problem is that I have to remove it on the transfer case side to get to the recessed zerk due to the tummy tuck.
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I got mine locally and everything is greasable as well...only problem is that I have to remove it on the transfer case side to get to the recessed zerk due to the tummy tuck.
if I had a place locally I probably would have gone there but Tom's been around for a long time. They have free 48 state shipping and a good reputation. The nearest place for me is about an hour drive and I don't really own another car... Saved me gas money and the hassle so I'm happy.