Author Topic: SYE's  (Read 9959 times)

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Offline FourbangerYJ

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Re: SYE's
« Reply #45 on: August 11, 2013, 11:08:54 PM »
Cutting that shaft with a Dremel takes some patients! Glad it's going OK so far.
Scott~

Using tools you have not used in a while is like shaking hands with old friends. :nod:

Offline Jeffy

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Re: SYE's
« Reply #46 on: August 11, 2013, 11:11:19 PM »
you cut that with the dremel  :yikes:

$10 for an angle grinder at HF and $5 for a set of cutting wheels would have make that a 2 minute job.
I cut long then cleaned it up with a bench grinder.  I have an angle grinder but no cut off wheels.  I would have had to clean it up on the bench anyway though.
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Offline Jeffy

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Re: SYE's
« Reply #47 on: August 11, 2013, 11:15:12 PM »
Cutting that shaft with a Dremel takes some patients! Glad it's going OK so far.
It was actually pretty quick.  I had to replace the wheel once but I have a bunch of them.  Didn't take more then a minute to cut.  Just took my time to keep it straight.  Went long since I knew I'd have to trim it back on the bench grinder.  I needed 9.380"  I got it to 9.3801"
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: SYE's
« Reply #48 on: August 11, 2013, 11:19:10 PM »
I cut long then cleaned it up with a bench grinder.  I have an angle grinder but no cut off wheels.  I would have had to clean it up on the bench anyway though.

when I cutoff my fenders for the tires I tried to use a dremel and quickly ran our of wheels before even finishing one of them :lol:
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end

Offline FourbangerYJ

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Re: SYE's
« Reply #49 on: August 11, 2013, 11:19:32 PM »
It was actually pretty quick.  I had to replace the wheel once but I have a bunch of them.  Didn't take more then a minute to cut.  Just took my time to keep it straight.  Went long since I knew I'd have to trim it back on the bench grinder.  I needed 9.380"  I got it to 9.3801"

Pretty good!
Scott~

Using tools you have not used in a while is like shaking hands with old friends. :nod:

Offline Jeffy

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Re: SYE's
« Reply #50 on: August 11, 2013, 11:37:07 PM »
when I cutoff my fenders for the tires I tried to use a dremel and quickly ran our of wheels before even finishing one of them :lol:
You gotta have a feel for it.  Put too much pressure or not cut straight and you'll have a face full of broken disc.  I figured if I screwed it up I'd just buy a new mode fork.  It's also a straight cut.  I was worried that the shaft was hardened but it was easy to cut.
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

Offline neale_rs

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Re: SYE's
« Reply #51 on: August 12, 2013, 08:33:30 AM »
Nice job.  The problem with the Dremel is when the cut is farther in on the shaft  or sheet and you can't get the cutting disk perpendicular to the shaft.
'95 YJ, 33 x 12.5 mud tires, RE 4.5 ED lift, Atlas 4 speed, rear D44, ARBs front and rear, 4.56 gears, 8000# winch

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: SYE's
« Reply #52 on: August 12, 2013, 08:45:58 AM »
...  I needed 9.380"  I got it to 9.3801"

how the hell did you measure 9.3801? ??? (I mean .0001 as in a tenth of a thousand of an inch)

you have a 9 to 10'' micrometer?

i doubt the stock shaft was built to that tolerance anyway
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end

Offline Jeffy

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Re: SYE's
« Reply #53 on: August 12, 2013, 01:21:17 PM »
how the hell did you measure 9.3801? ??? (I mean .0001 as in a tenth of a thousand of an inch)

you have a 9 to 10'' micrometer?

i doubt the stock shaft was built to that tolerance anyway
Yes, I have a micrometer.  I agree.  I just need to make sure it doesn't poke out into the rear housing.  Which is why I didn't really have a problem using a Dremel.
Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZNlr60GXH5OlKIFrT7P6mg
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: SYE's
« Reply #54 on: August 12, 2013, 01:43:57 PM »
Yes, I have a micrometer.  I agree.  I just need to make sure it doesn't poke out into the rear housing.  Which is why I didn't really have a problem using a Dremel.

wow - that is a big micrometer, largest one i have is 4 to 5''
i have a 12'' caliper though but can't measure to that resolution.
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end

Offline Jeffy

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Re: SYE's
« Reply #55 on: August 12, 2013, 09:56:21 PM »
Well, it's done!  What a PITA it is to get the oil pump on while aligning the front spindle and the mode fork shaft to the rear case half while on your back.  It's like juggling while on fire.  I'd get the spindle and the shaft lined up then the stupid feed line for the pump falls off.  Keep in mind I'm doing this while trying not to touch the RTV that's on the other side.  Finally got it all together though.

I didn't like how low the pinion was so I decided to loosen teh U-bolts and put the shims I had back in.  I think they're 2.5* but I'm not certain.  They're the ones the lift came with for when you didn't install a SYE and had to drop the T-case.  In any case it looks a lot better.  It didn't go withough a fight though.  I have Currie spring plates and they're boxed.  So you have to keep the bolts straight in order to not get the socket jammed in the plate.  Well that didn't happen.  The other PITA part was trying to get 90ft-lbs on them while laying on my side.  I ended up going in increments so I could tell I was tightening then without having to worry that I was going to break a bolt.  It's always strange when you get them all to a set torque then it takes more turns to get to the next mark.

In any case, all the heavy lifting is done.  The pinion is still a little below the yoke.  I ordered some 1" dog legged lift shackles for the rear.  That should get me on the pinion while giving me a little more lift in the rear.  (I had 1" Con-ferrs in the rear not too long ago and removed them for some cheap stock height shackles.

So I measured some the yoke strap holes to the yoke strap holes and I get about 19" on the bottom and 19.25" for the top.

One thing to note is that the index on the VSS isn't helpful anymore.  I just went by feel and it works.



In 4WD, the shaft doesn't even come close to the hole.


After adding the degree shims.
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: SYE's
« Reply #56 on: August 12, 2013, 10:45:53 PM »
...
One thing to note is that the index on the VSS isn't helpful anymore.  I just went by feel and it works.


looks like you used the same key position, what did you mean by is not useful anymore?


btw, i wondered why you didn't take the t-case out
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end

Offline Jeffy

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Re: SYE's
« Reply #57 on: August 12, 2013, 10:53:05 PM »
Hmm, I guess it is.  Though I thought it was off by one slot.

I didn't want to deal with pulling the T-case.  It's kind of a PITA to get to teh top bolts then I'd have to readjust the shifter.  Not to mention, I didn't feel like catching the housing while under it.  I don't have a trans jack.  It's a lot easier with two people though.
Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZNlr60GXH5OlKIFrT7P6mg
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: SYE's
« Reply #58 on: August 12, 2013, 11:22:33 PM »
np231 is easy to remove, try the D300. when i added the doubler i bought a trans jack from HF :lol:, that wasn't going to happen without one

just out of curiosity, did they have the instructions for doing it under the Jeep? it wouldn't have crossed my mind doing it that way.

the top bolts work best with a ratcheting wrench (and that somehow sounds weird but you know what i mean) - i mean they all work best with that but helps most with the top ones.
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end

Offline Jeffy

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Re: SYE's
« Reply #59 on: August 12, 2013, 11:29:47 PM »
Nope the instructions are fairly generic.  I had to experiment a lot to get everything lined up but it wasn't bad.  The instructions wouldn't have helped either way.  I had the FSM open so I could have some reference on which way the sprockets go in.  I didn't bother using a torgue wrench.  Everything was under 25 ft-lbs IIRC.
Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZNlr60GXH5OlKIFrT7P6mg
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."