4bangerjp.com
General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: Tr00b on October 05, 2013, 10:14:03 PM
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I know these pics are terrible but I was very disappointed to find that behind the suspension arm bracket in front of the rear tire has some bad rust damage.
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c196/GhettoGothCowboy/IMG_20131005_170607_971_zpsec0ba9a1.jpg)
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c196/GhettoGothCowboy/IMG_20131005_170544_846_zps017547d5.jpg)
I had been hoping it wasnt this bad but i saw daylight through it today and started picking and got sicker and sicker the more that came off. I am not real sure what to do about it. I need this thing to haul firewood for this winter. I had an F150 frame rail split in half on me while going down the road....
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Nothing to do but cut it out and start welding in new metal
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I would get a replacement frame from j/y, there's probably more runst in other places. late 95 had a galvanized frame
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Its a 1997 TJ. The verdict is on other forums that patch frame pieces are available and OK but usually a new used frame is the best solution because its usually so screwed up all over if its rusted out in one spot.
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The cheapest option would be to cut patch and plate the area. If it's worse then just that one area then a frame replacement might be in order. It would probably be cheaper to buy a new Jeep at that point.
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I guess if it stops raining I'll poke around for more rust. As far as I know this is the worst/ only bad spot and I have someone who has a steel shop who can do it. How bad are those trailing arms to get off?
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I guess if it stops raining I'll poke around for more rust. As far as I know this is the worst/ only bad spot and I have someone who has a steel shop who can do it. How bad are those trailing arms to get off?
Well seeing all that rust, they might be hard to remove if it's rusty as well. Shouldn't be too hard if you soak everything in penetrating oil for a while before hand.
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I had real bad luck with the upper shock mount bolts they snapped off like twigs.
Might I need to rebush the radius arms? ie you can't usually remove leaf spring bolts because the the bolts and sleeves rust and expand inside the bushings around here. You end up cutting the bolts dropping the spring out and then melting the whole works out with a torch.
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Not only is the frame bad on that side, both rearmost frame sections have big holes in them both drivers and passengers... the drivers side is real bad. No more towing the trailer anymore... my dad was so helpful... took a look at it and said "that's a jeep for ya" and walked away.
I'm essentially screwed because now that ive been poking around its real fing obvious there are problems. I won't be able to get jack crap selling it or trading it and I'm broke as it is, now I can't haul stuff for the farm.
Well sorry for the rant... trying to find a way out of this without losing my ass and no good ideas are surfacing.
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Nothing has really changed just because you have more information about it. It can still be used just like the last time you used it. Just calmly start fixing what you can.
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find a donor vehicle for cheap and get it to your farm (blown engine, rolled, etc).
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Couple problems with digging in and fixing it... there are frames around for sale.in the 4 to 900 range and I still love.this.thing and am not out that much money to get it and get it on the road maybe $4000 and I've used the heck out of it since 2008.... but.
... My house is half torn down and while yes I am putting in a garage with a heated floor it has sky above it right now. Its not going to be use able for maybe 6 months?
The body is also in rough. I'll have to repair the body mount rail in two places and under the inner rear fenders rot is starting.
Usually when you take it apart that far you takecare of the might as well fixes.. which add up to months of time and at least $2000. The brakes are shot. Transfer case needs reseal and maybe output bearing might as well rebuild it. Should replace the ujoints on the drive shafts. Pinion seal on rear axle but might as well replace... The drivers side fender is rotted out and has accident damage...
Neale you are.probably right I could just use it like I knew nothing but the jeep has been there for me after 3 Ford trucks rusted out and failed. Now my failsafe is failing..
Last ditch effort a friend of mine has done some pretty wild frame fixes on YJs that look really good he may be able to buy me a few years by patching it up but he swore he would never do it again. Hoping he comes through...
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I still think it would be a whole lot easier to get a donor Jeep, running or not. A 4.0L would be a nice upgrade. Then swap your good stuff to the runner or else mix and match till you get one good Jeep. Unless you're doing the labor for free because you want to learn, I don't think it's worth it. You could cut out the whole rear and build a new one like what thy do with multi-link rears.
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What would one expect to pay for a donor jeep and how do you find one? All the rebuilder websites want 5k for them and extremely far and few between
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This might help: http://autorust.com/store/jeep
You can locate Jeeps on craiglist and eBay.
Maybe look on the internet for flood damaged TJs.
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Haha... just try to look for a reasonably priced builder jeep. Even 4 cyl. Its not a rewarding. process. and what's worse is I still would like a truck. So when I get done with a frame off I'm still still stuck with not having a truck... frame off or back halving the frame are going to be too expensive.
The local hardcore hardcore real Jeep dealer around here, Louisburg Garage said they use the Saf-T-Cap frame patch pieces i believe they are the same as in your link Neale. They feel the frame is as strong or stronger than oem after the install and they install them on a regular basis.
My friend that fixes frames doesn't want to fix my jeep he wants to buy it. He wrecked his car last week and wants a plow/snow jeep. I don't know what mine is wo:rth but 3500ish sounds fair to me. Going to discuss repair or sell tomorrow... and I'll take the money and buy a truck. Maybe.
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Honestly, I'd probably sell it and get your truck. Your friend has the skill to fix it for cheap. You can still wheel a truck too. We won't hold it against you either.
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My vote is for a Jeep pickup!
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My vote is for a Jeep pickup!
Seeing as how much rust his TJ has I bet it's hard to find anything older without rust.
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Buy one from the Southwest.
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I don't know what mine is wo:rth but 3500ish sounds fair to me. Going to discuss repair or sell tomorrow... and I'll take the money and buy a truck. Maybe.
If you can get $3500 for a jeep in that condition, I've got one to sell him too ;) I just paid $2500 for one with a nearly perfect frame and tub.
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Buy one from the Southwest.
Would be a lot easier to get a Ford, Dodge or GM. Cheap too. Not to mention plenty of cheap parts.
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Uh oh... sounds like my price expectation is unrealistic... Isn't that a surprise that I live in a mountain of sh*t and I ride around in a chariot pulled by flies. I am headed over there now to show him what is up with the jeep... see what he says.
There is a Comanche for sale locally on 33s but there isn't too much of it left. I am a really tall guy and need the seat bracket spacers and etc to fit in a TJ. Doubt I could fit in one.
For the farm I need anything 4wd that can pull a trailer. 4 low is big too. I can get by with another 4 cyl jeep... but i could do real well with a 1/2 ton... but I want a 3/4 ton. If I had plenty of money and time I would fix up and modernize a Kaiser M715. If I had an ideal truck to buy with a loan it would be a 2006 ish F250 single cab long box manual 4 x 4 with a bulletproofed 6.0 (head studs egr delete turbo etc) or a 3v V10 with 4.30 gears. The v10 gets about 10 mpg whether you are running 1200 or 4000 rpms so the low gears are extremely desire able.
I don't know what I will end up with guys I may just sell the jeep cut the fenders on my Subaru and put 33s on it.
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I'd look for a 1973–2000 Chevy C/K, 1962-1996 Ford F-series, or a 1981-93 Dodge Ram. They're older but still have the classic truck look. They're also very cheap and extremely simple to work on. I'd probably lean towards the Chevy since they were the top sellers and have the longest run with minor changes.
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Friend offered 3300. I'm pretty sure I'm going to accept.
i'm not finding much available for sale i can get excited about locally as far as trucks go. The ones that are nice are priced high... the ones that are reasonable are trashed or don't even run.
I could stomach an M1008 5/4 ton (k30/C30 with lockers 60/14 bolt and 456 gears and a diesel engine) so i can burn waste vegetable and motor. The price on them is out of sight too though... Going to call Boyce Equipment on Monday and see if they have something in my price range.
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Friend offered 3300. I'm pretty sure I'm going to accept.
i'm not finding much available for sale i can get excited about locally as far as trucks go. The ones that are nice are priced high... the ones that are reasonable are trashed or don't even run.
I could stomach an M1008 5/4 ton (k30/C30 with lockers 60/14 bolt and 456 gears and a diesel engine) so i can burn waste vegetable and motor. The price on them is out of sight too though... Going to call Boyce Equipment on Monday and see if they have something in my price range.
Hmm, CUCV's are usually dirt cheap. The only problem with then is that the 6.2L is a dog. Only the M1008 will have the Detroit Locker in the rear. Front is open still. Interiors are rustic with a vinyl bench but you can swap in cloth easily ehough if you want. It's going to be a 24v system but luckily all the interior voltage is 12V.
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The Chevy pickups are cheap to wheel with decent aftermarket support. My son has two K10s. For example, he picked up a '78 Scottsdale with SM465, NP205, D44 front, 32" tires, 12 bolt rear with locker, aluminum tool box and a torquey 350 from a Uhaul truck for $1000, including a Holley Avenger carb. He had to buy an intake and give the motor some love. It's a lot of truck for $1300.
Here's good site for aftermarket parts: http://offroaddesign.com/
You can check the auctions, lots of CUCVs down at Aberdeen, MD.
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Sigh... I live in NW Illinois. Trucks like that are either show trucks or a pile of red dust. Unfortunately because I don't have the time for a project it makes it tough.
I have a 75 fOrd f250 highboy but it needs a cab swapand tthe cab I have needs work the PS system is gone and the motor needs exhaust manifolds.
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Well weird turn of events. Friend found a nice TJ with a plow for 7500. So in leiu of not buying mine he's going to help me fix mine for cheap/ free. I'm going to fix the brakes at the same time do the pinion seal maybe a lunch box locker out back quick while the rear end is apart.
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Sounds good. Should be good for many more years.
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Well guys been a tough few months. Never got time to work on the Jeep. Working on my house which takes whatever spare moneys and time that would have gone to jeep fixing.
In the middle of this I bought a 1996 GMC 1500 with the 6.5 diesel. It has a rusted out crossover pipe so it leaks boost but it looks easy to replace parts were cheap and the truck is overall clean and savable. So far its just what the doctor ordered for getting wood hauled and stuff done around the farm. It is also getting about 15-17 mpg even with the pipe rusted out. I am working on prepping it to run 10-20% waste motor oil as well. Got some custom rebuilt injectors on order designed to burn the waste oils. To be honest I'm not excited about the truck its more of a tool than anything.
I miss the Jeep a lot it does way better offroad and is more fun to drive. I also miss having it as my only vehicle. It was kind of like being married to it in a weird kind of way.
Just thought I would update. I'll probably disappear till spring before anything gets done on the jeep.