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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: dexetr30 on May 14, 2007, 07:05:24 PM
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Ok, build sheet below says I have a 3 spd auto. But, when I count shifts I get 4 gears. It's been that way since the day I bought the Jeep. I got it used at a Jeep dealership. Anyone think the trans could have been swapped? My shift counsel is 1-2-D. Any ideas?
Thank you for contacting the Chrysler Group Customer Assistance Center
requesting build sheet for your 2002 Jeep Wrangler.
According to our records, your vehicle was equipped from the factory
with the following:
*L5 - Cloth High-Back Bucket Seats
-AZ - Agate
ACF - Tire and Wheel Group
ADC - Convenience Group
APAS - Monotone Paint
A22P - 2.5L Engine(EPE)/3Sp Auto Trans(DGD
BAUS - 117 Amp Alternator
BCDS - 500 Amp Maintenance Free Battery
BGAS - Power Front Disc/Rear Drum Brakes
CADP - High Back Bucket Seats
CAGP - Easy Access Pass Tip & Slide Seat
CDBS - Reclining Front Seats
CFMP - Rear Folding Seat
CGWS - Next Generation Front Air Bags**
CGZS - Passenger Air Bag On/Off Switch
CKES - Front Seat Area Carpet
CKFP - Rear Seat/Wheelhouse/Cargo Carpet
CKTS - Cargo Tie Down Loops
CLC - Front Floor Mats
CLSP - Sport Bar w/Rear Padding
CUFP - Full Length Floor Console
DGAS - All 3-Speed Automatic Transmissions
DGD - 3-Spd. Automatic 30RH Transmission
DHAP - Lock-Up Torque Converter
DHNS - Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System
DJJS - Dana 30/186MM Front Axle
DMEP - 3.73 Axle Ratio
DRJS - Dana M35/194MM Rear Axle
EPE - 2.5L Power Tech I-4 Engine
GBBS - Tinted Windshield Glass
GCBP - Front Door Tinted Glass
GCF - Full Metal Doors w/Roll-up Windows
GRVP - Left Manual Mirror
GSVP - Right Manual Mirror
GTVS - Swing-Away Mirrors
HCDS - Heater w/Instrument Pnl Ventilation
I63S - Route 63 - CSX, Twin Oaks, PA
JAYS - Instrument Cluster w/Tach
JCDS - 100 MPH Primary Speedometer
JHAS - Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers
JJAS - Cigar Lighter
JJFS - Single Low Note Horn
JKAS - Locking Glove Box
KWRS - STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
KXRS - STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
K3ZS - STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
LBBP - Courtesy Lamps
LDAP - Underhood Lamp
LMAS - Halogen Headlamps
LPSS - CHMSL Lamp
MBAS - Painted Front Bumper
MB5S - Black Rear Bumper
MCHS - Bumper Extensions
MFPS - Chrome Headlamp Bezels
MFRS - Black Front Frame Overlay
MFTS - Body Color Grille
MWBS - Sport Bar w/Side Padding
NAS - 50 State Emissions
NBKS - EVAP Control System
NBTP - Transitory Low Emission Veh (TLEV)
NF1S - 19 Gallon Fuel Tank
PS5A - Silverstone Metallic Clear Coat
QS5S - Silverstone Metallic Clear Coat
RAAC - All Radio Equipped Vehicles
RBR - AM/FM Compact Disc Radio
RCDP - 4 Speakers
RDDP - Fixed Long Mast Antenna
SBAS - Power Rack and Pinion Steering
SCES - 2-Spoke Soft Feel Steering Wheel
SDAS - Normal Duty Suspension
SHAS - Front Stabilizer Bar
SHCS - Front and Rear Stabilizer Bars
TBBP - Full Size Spare Tire
TBRS - Outside Tire Carrier
TRNP - P225/75R15 OWL Wrangler AT Tires
TZAP - Goodyear Brand Tires
VJXA - Black Soft Top
WJ5P - 15X7.0 Full-Face Steel Wheels
WKBP - Matching Spare Wheel
WLYC - All Steel Wheels
XCYS - Upgraded OBD-II Connectors
XEES - Fuel Tank Skid Plate Shield
XEFS - Transfer Case Skid Plate Shield
XEW - 2 Front & 1 Rear Tow Hooks
XJFS - Tethered Fuel Filler Cap
XPFS - Protective Coating and Remover
YAAS - Build To U S Market Specifications
YEP - Manuf Statement of Origin
YGFA - 8 Additional Gallons of Gas
ZAUP - Spring - Left Rear
ZBEP - Spring - Left Front
ZNUP - Spring - Right Rear
ZPEP - Spring - Right Front
Z5BS - Payload Rating - 1800#
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Your butt dyno is lying. :roflol: You should have a 30RH(TF907) 3-speed Automatic Transmission. 1-2-D is the correct shift order. If you has a 4-speed it would be 1-2-D-OD (It will be a D with a circle around it.) What you're feeling is the torque converter locking up at highway speeds.
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I agree, the torque converter lockup in 3rd will feel like a slight shift.
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Hmmm, the tach even drops. I guess I need to fine tune my "butt dyno." ???
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Yes, the tach will even drop when the torque converter locks up.
I've seen owner's manuals describe this if you wanted to check yours.
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Hmmm, the tach even drops. I guess I need to fine tune my "butt dyno." ???
I have the same thing. The tach will drop significantly (3-500 rpms). Want to pass someone without a kickdown, just tap your brake and you'll bring the rpms back up. I don't have a kickdown passing gear so I either manually shift into 2nd and get my 4500 rpms or I touch the brake without getting off the gas. Second gear passes are much faster. :hump:
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Ok as for the "butt dyno" thing. The wife tells me I have no butt. This could be the problem. :whistle: Damn I really dislike automatics. Next purchase will be a manual for sure.
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Ok as for the "butt dyno" thing. The wife tells me I have no butt. This could be the problem. :whistle: Damn I really dislike automatics. Next purchase will be a manual for sure.
or a butt transplant... :lol:
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Ok as for the "butt dyno" thing. The wife tells me I have no butt. This could be the problem. :whistle: Damn I really dislike automatics. Next purchase will be a manual for sure.
:bore:
Jeeps are for offroad and not smooth concrete. :confused: Manual trans Jeeps require footsy work when wheeling and that makes you tired, sore, and not happy. Auto trans Jeeps require left foot brake and right foot gas. Simple, easy, coordinated, synchronized, relaxed, wheel more, and get bigger smiles!!!!! :biggrin:
Leave the butt action to the tiltmeter requirements. Suck up some seat cushions..... :eek:
:blbl:
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Manual trans Jeeps require footsy work when wheeling and that makes you tired, sore, and not happy.
My 5spd has never left me tired, sore, and not happy. If you can't operate a clutch, how do you walk up stairs?
I love being able to clutch to simply roll back and turn to make a tight turn on the trail or to get lined up on an obstacle. I wouldn't be able to stand having to constantly come to a stop and shift from D to R and stop again to shift from R to D. So much easier to clutch and be done with it.
But alas, here we are again :guns:
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I've had manuals in past Jeeps and prefer them on the trails also. The manual is better for city/street cruising also...imo. We got the auto because my wife didn't know how to drive the manual at the time.
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i prefer a manual off road. it kind ads a hole new element to offroading by choosing which gear to use for if you need more speed or power.. adn if you get tired from shifting and pushing in a clutch there is something wrong wiht you.
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I have a 5spd manual now...but I'm switching it to an auto when i upgrade the engine....simply sick of constantly riding the clutch on the trail and would rather not have to down shift going up tough hills...just getting lazy I guess...
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I have a 5spd manual now...but I'm switching it to an auto when i upgrade the engine....simply sick of constantly riding the clutch on the trail and would rather not have to down shift going up tough hills...just getting lazy I guess...
Hmm, riding the clutch is usually more of a problem with gearing then having a manual vs. auto.
There is nothing wrong with an auto. There's a reason why most competition buggies are auto's. One thing to consider with an auto though is gearing too low. You won't be able to hold an auto if you have really low gears. One of the cool things with an auto is you can have a manual shift body so it shifts like a clutch-less manual. If I was going to do a engine swap I'd go with a auto, too. It's just easier to get a matched pair engine trans as an auto then a manual. The whole bad rap that auto's have is BS these days.
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Hmm, riding the clutch is usually more of a problem with gearing then having a manual vs. auto.
There is nothing wrong with an auto. There's a reason why most competition buggies are auto's. One thing to consider with an auto though is gearing too low. You won't be able to hold an auto if you have really low gears. One of the cool things with an auto is you can have a manual shift body so it shifts like a clutch-less manual. If I was going to do a engine swap I'd go with a auto, too. It's just easier to get a matched pair engine trans as an auto then a manual. The whole bad rap that auto's have is BS these days.
Jeffy, can you point me in the right direction for the manual shift body. Is a manual shift body offered for my trans or is there a mod that is done to the existing valve body?
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I've used both manuals and auto's offroad. In the big rocks, I'll never go back to a manual - after a full day, my left knee was always sore from the heavy clutch on my t18. Nice thing on my AW4 if full electronic control of gear position, so it's like a stick without the clutch and a near instant shift.
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OK, I've looked everywhere for after market torque converters and a manual valve body for my trans and NOTHING is offered. Am I' just looking in the wrong places? :brick:
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From what I have read on our stock auto's you would be better of investing in the AW4 like Oldjeep, those are suppose to be tough transmissions. Just an opinion though. I agree with going the auto route my last jeep was a stick and it was not nearly as easy to manuver in a technical route on the rocks, the auto is better.
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Jeffy, can you point me in the right direction for the manual shift body. Is a manual shift body offered for my trans or is there a mod that is done to the existing valve body?
I think this might be one but I'm not certain. It's a bit vague. http://www.artcarr.com/storm.cfm?funnelaction=10&ProductID=7315
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From what I have read on our stock auto's you would be better of investing in the AW4 like Oldjeep, those are suppose to be tough transmissions. Just an opinion though. I agree with going the auto route my last jeep was a stick and it was not nearly as easy to manuver in a technical route on the rocks, the auto is better.
Just as a note here since I already had one person asking me about the AW4 swap. In a 4.0L YJ/TJ it is basically a bolt in swap with avaliable parts. In a 2.5L YJ/TJ it isn't quite that easy. There's some machine work that has to be done(Flexplate and CPS mounting), and a few parts that are pretty hard to get ahold of (2.5L torque convertor, 2.5L AW4 Bellhousing, 2.5L TCU). So while it's a good swap, and I really like it - it would take some parts hunting skill and a friend with a milling machine.