Topic: Auto trans related.

[dexetr30]

Ok, build sheet below says I have a 3 spd auto. But, when I count shifts I get 4 gears. It's been that way since the day I bought the Jeep. I got it used at a Jeep dealership. Anyone think the trans could have been swapped? My shift counsel is 1-2-D. Any ideas?

Thank you for contacting the Chrysler Group Customer Assistance Center
requesting build sheet for your 2002 Jeep Wrangler.

According to our records, your vehicle was equipped from the factory
with the following:

 *L5  -  Cloth High-Back Bucket Seats
 -AZ  -  Agate
 ACF  -  Tire and Wheel Group
 ADC  -  Convenience Group
 APAS -  Monotone Paint
A22P -  2.5L Engine(EPE)/3Sp Auto Trans(DGD
 BAUS -  117 Amp Alternator
 BCDS -  500 Amp Maintenance Free Battery
 BGAS -  Power Front Disc/Rear Drum Brakes
 CADP -  High Back Bucket Seats
 CAGP -  Easy Access Pass Tip & Slide Seat
 CDBS -  Reclining Front Seats
 CFMP -  Rear Folding Seat
 CGWS -  Next Generation Front Air Bags**
 CGZS -  Passenger Air Bag On/Off Switch
 CKES -  Front Seat Area Carpet
 CKFP -  Rear Seat/Wheelhouse/Cargo Carpet
 CKTS -  Cargo Tie Down Loops
 CLC  -  Front Floor Mats
 CLSP -  Sport Bar w/Rear Padding
 CUFP -  Full Length Floor Console
 DGAS -  All 3-Speed Automatic Transmissions
 DGD  -  3-Spd. Automatic 30RH Transmission
 DHAP -  Lock-Up Torque Converter
 DHNS -  Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System
 DJJS -  Dana 30/186MM Front Axle
 DMEP -  3.73 Axle Ratio
 DRJS -  Dana M35/194MM Rear Axle
 EPE  -  2.5L Power Tech I-4 Engine
 GBBS -  Tinted Windshield Glass
 GCBP -  Front Door Tinted Glass
 GCF  -  Full Metal Doors w/Roll-up Windows
 GRVP -  Left Manual Mirror
 GSVP -  Right Manual Mirror
 GTVS -  Swing-Away Mirrors
 HCDS -  Heater w/Instrument Pnl Ventilation
 I63S -  Route 63 - CSX, Twin Oaks, PA
 JAYS -  Instrument Cluster w/Tach
 JCDS -  100 MPH Primary Speedometer
 JHAS -  Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers
 JJAS -  Cigar Lighter
 JJFS -  Single Low Note Horn
 JKAS -  Locking Glove Box
 KWRS -  STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
 KXRS -  STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
 K3ZS -  STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
 LBBP -  Courtesy Lamps
 LDAP -  Underhood Lamp
 LMAS -  Halogen Headlamps
 LPSS -  CHMSL Lamp
 MBAS -  Painted Front Bumper
 MB5S -  Black Rear Bumper
 MCHS -  Bumper Extensions
 MFPS -  Chrome Headlamp Bezels
 MFRS -  Black Front Frame Overlay
 MFTS -  Body Color Grille
 MWBS -  Sport Bar w/Side Padding
 NAS  -  50 State Emissions
 NBKS -  EVAP Control System
 NBTP -  Transitory Low Emission Veh (TLEV)
 NF1S -  19 Gallon Fuel Tank
 PS5A -  Silverstone Metallic Clear Coat
 QS5S -  Silverstone Metallic Clear Coat
 RAAC -  All Radio Equipped Vehicles
 RBR  -  AM/FM Compact Disc Radio
 RCDP -  4 Speakers
 RDDP -  Fixed Long Mast Antenna
 SBAS -  Power Rack and Pinion Steering
 SCES -  2-Spoke Soft Feel Steering Wheel
 SDAS -  Normal Duty Suspension
 SHAS -  Front Stabilizer Bar
 SHCS -  Front and Rear Stabilizer Bars
 TBBP -  Full Size Spare Tire
 TBRS -  Outside Tire Carrier
 TRNP -  P225/75R15 OWL Wrangler AT Tires
 TZAP -  Goodyear Brand Tires
 VJXA -  Black Soft Top
 WJ5P -  15X7.0 Full-Face Steel Wheels
 WKBP -  Matching Spare Wheel
 WLYC -  All Steel Wheels
 XCYS -  Upgraded OBD-II Connectors
 XEES -  Fuel Tank Skid Plate Shield
 XEFS -  Transfer Case Skid Plate Shield
 XEW  -  2 Front & 1 Rear Tow Hooks
 XJFS -  Tethered Fuel Filler Cap
 XPFS -  Protective Coating and Remover
 YAAS -  Build To U S Market Specifications
 YEP  -  Manuf Statement of Origin
 YGFA -  8 Additional Gallons of Gas
 ZAUP -  Spring - Left Rear
 ZBEP -  Spring - Left Front
 ZNUP -  Spring - Right Rear
 ZPEP -  Spring - Right Front
 Z5BS -  Payload Rating - 1800#

[Jeffy]

Your butt dyno is lying.   You should have a 30RH(TF907) 3-speed Automatic Transmission.  1-2-D is the correct shift order.  If you has a 4-speed it would be 1-2-D-OD (It will be a D with a circle around it.)  What you're feeling is the torque converter locking up at highway speeds.

[Bounty Hunter]

I agree, the torque converter lockup in 3rd will feel like a slight shift.

[dexetr30]

Hmmm, the tach even drops. I guess I need to fine tune my "butt dyno." 

[Bounty Hunter]

Yes, the tach will even drop when the torque converter locks up.

I've seen owner's manuals describe this if you wanted to check yours.

[jagular7]

Hmmm, the tach even drops. I guess I need to fine tune my "butt dyno." 

I have the same thing. The tach will drop significantly (3-500 rpms). Want to pass someone without a kickdown, just tap your brake and you'll bring the rpms back up. I don't have a kickdown passing gear so I either manually shift into 2nd and get my 4500 rpms or I touch the brake without getting off the gas. Second gear passes are much faster.

[dexetr30]

Ok as for the "butt dyno" thing. The wife tells me I have no butt. This could be the problem.  Damn I really dislike automatics. Next purchase will be a manual for sure.

[Jeffy]

Ok as for the "butt dyno" thing. The wife tells me I have no butt. This could be the problem.  Damn I really dislike automatics. Next purchase will be a manual for sure.

or a butt transplant... 

[jagular7]

Ok as for the "butt dyno" thing. The wife tells me I have no butt. This could be the problem.  Damn I really dislike automatics. Next purchase will be a manual for sure.

 

Jeeps are for offroad and not smooth concrete.    Manual trans Jeeps require footsy work when wheeling and that makes you tired, sore, and not happy. Auto trans Jeeps require left foot brake and right foot gas. Simple, easy, coordinated, synchronized, relaxed, wheel more, and get bigger smiles!!!!! 

Leave the butt action to the tiltmeter requirements. Suck up some seat cushions.....


 

[Bounty Hunter]

Manual trans Jeeps require footsy work when wheeling and that makes you tired, sore, and not happy.

My 5spd has never left me tired, sore, and not happy.  If you can't operate a clutch, how do you walk up stairs?

I love being able to clutch to simply roll back and turn to make a tight turn on the trail or to get lined up on an obstacle.  I wouldn't be able to stand having to constantly come to a stop and shift from D to R and stop again to shift from R to D.  So much easier to clutch and be done with it.

But alas, here we are again

[dexetr30]

I've had manuals in past Jeeps and prefer them on the trails also. The manual is better for city/street cruising also...imo. We got the auto because my wife didn't know how to drive the manual at the time.

[chardrc]

i prefer a manual off road. it kind ads a hole new element to offroading by choosing which gear to use for if you need more speed or power.. adn if you get tired from shifting and pushing in a clutch  there is something wrong wiht you.

[Mozman68]

I have a 5spd manual now...but I'm switching it to an auto when i upgrade the engine....simply sick of constantly riding the clutch on the trail and would rather not have to down shift going up tough hills...just getting lazy I guess...

[Jeffy]

I have a 5spd manual now...but I'm switching it to an auto when i upgrade the engine....simply sick of constantly riding the clutch on the trail and would rather not have to down shift going up tough hills...just getting lazy I guess...

Hmm, riding the clutch is usually more of a problem with gearing then having a manual vs. auto.

There is nothing wrong with an auto.  There's a reason why most competition buggies are auto's.  One thing to consider with an auto though is gearing too low.  You won't be able to hold an auto if you have really low gears.  One of the cool things with an auto is you can have a manual shift body so it shifts like a clutch-less manual.  If I was going to do a engine swap I'd go with a auto, too.  It's just easier to get a matched pair engine trans as an auto then a manual.  The whole bad rap that auto's have is BS these days.

[dexetr30]

Hmm, riding the clutch is usually more of a problem with gearing then having a manual vs. auto.

There is nothing wrong with an auto.  There's a reason why most competition buggies are auto's.  One thing to consider with an auto though is gearing too low.  You won't be able to hold an auto if you have really low gears.  One of the cool things with an auto is you can have a manual shift body so it shifts like a clutch-less manual.  If I was going to do a engine swap I'd go with a auto, too.  It's just easier to get a matched pair engine trans as an auto then a manual.  The whole bad rap that auto's have is BS these days.

Jeffy, can you point me in the right direction for the manual shift body. Is a manual shift body offered for my trans or is there a mod that is done to the existing valve body?