4bangerjp.com
General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: Quyjeeper on November 19, 2007, 12:32:44 AM
-
is it worth it? Black diamon suspension has a 3.5 lift kit and shocks on 4wd for 585.00 is it honestly worth it? shackle lifts and a 2inch body lift currently is getting kinda choppy. the body lift can stay. the shackle lift must go in place of a good suspension lift. i was looking to paying good money for te 6inch skyjacker monolinear kit. but all im asking is to clear 33's.im currently running 31's and have a rack and pinion set for both front and rear yet to be installed... need help from the experts...
let me know!
Quy-
-
im currently running 31's and have a rack and pinion set for both front and rear yet to be installed...
u have rack and pinion steering???
585 is a good price, i paid like 700 for mine i believe ...
-
Black Diamond Suspension is not BDS. Black Diamond is Superlift. So are you looking at BDS or Black Diamond?
-
Kit looks fairly complete. The only thing that I don't like about it is that their springs are only military wrapped on one end, the other end has a single wrap with the bottom spring just cupping the catured spring. You're also going to want to add some shackles to their kit if you want to be able to flex it.
-
Kit looks fairly complete. The only thing that I don't like about it is that their springs are only military wrapped on one end, the other end has a single wrap with the bottom spring just cupping the catured spring. You're also going to want to add some shackles to their kit if you want to be able to flex it.
very true all the kit is missing is dropped pitman arm, isn't nessacry, and yes you will need some aftermarket shackles to be able to fully stuff your tires.
-
Just make sure it comes with shocks. The description is not 100% clear on this and it is listed in their paper catalog at $624 (where it is 100% clear that it comes with shocks).
-
very true all the kit is missing is dropped pitman arm, isn't nessacry, and yes you will need some aftermarket shackles to be able to fully stuff your tires.
What makes the difference, a one inch longer shackle or greasable shackles?
-
very true all the kit is missing is dropped pitman arm, isn't nessacry, and yes you will need some aftermarket shackles to be able to fully stuff your tires.
What makes the difference, a one inch longer shackle or greasable shackles?
I'd go longer... Greasables are usually longer though. 3/8-5/8"
-
I'd go longer... Greasables are usually longer though. 3/8-5/8"
I put Currie greasable shackles in mine, and the ride is much softer now than it was with the stock shackles. As far as I can tell, these do no offer any "lift" (I dont particularly like lifting shackles), but the ride is much different. By the way, the rears are boomerang shackles...
Felipe
-
I put Currie greasable shackles in mine, and the ride is much softer now than it was with the stock shackles. As far as I can tell, these do no offer any "lift" (I dont particularly like lifting shackles), but the ride is much different. By the way, the rears are boomerang shackles...
Felipe
Do you notice you have better flex now?
-
I put Currie greasable shackles in mine, and the ride is much softer now than it was with the stock shackles. As far as I can tell, these do no offer any "lift" (I dont particularly like lifting shackles), but the ride is much different. By the way, the rears are boomerang shackles...
Felipe
They don't advertise them as such but most if not all aftermarket shackles are lift of some sort. If you measure eye-to-eye and they aren't 4" then they're lift. Lift shackles don't not mean they have to be 1-1.5" lift. A 5" long shackle will give you .5" lift. Not really enough to make any significant difference. I think if they're under 5/8" they tend not to list them as 'lift'. Currie used to list the lift hight of their shackles though with all the anti-lift shackle bandwagon, they removed that. Notice they don't say that their shackles are stock height either.
As for adding shackles with aftermarket lifts, you'll want that .5" especially if you have military/double wrap on both ends of the leaf. Also, the ride will improve with longer shackles since any lift will add length to the overall eye-to-eye distance of the leaf. Most of the time the shackle is jutting out at more then a 45* angle which makes for a stiffer ride. Then throw in poly bushings and that stiffens up the suspension a bit more.
-
They don't advertise them as such but most if not all aftermarket shackles are lift of some sort. If you measure eye-to-eye and they aren't 4" then they're lift. Lift shackles don't not mean they have to be 1-1.5" lift. A 5" long shackle will give you .5" lift. Not really enough to make any significant difference. I think if they're under 5/8" they tend not to list them as 'lift'. Currie used to list the lift hight of their shackles though with all the anti-lift shackle bandwagon, they removed that. Notice they don't say that their shackles are stock height either.
As for adding shackles with aftermarket lifts, you'll want that .5" especially if you have military/double wrap on both ends of the leaf. Also, the ride will improve with longer shackles since any lift will add length to the overall eye-to-eye distance of the leaf. Most of the time the shackle is jutting out at more then a 45* angle which makes for a stiffer ride. Then throw in poly bushings and that stiffens up the suspension a bit more.
Hmmm... Interesting... I'll measure them tonight to be sure exactly what I have. I will say, though, that the ride is noticeably smoother, so regardless if they lift the Jeep or not, they are a big improvement (and not only on the ride itself; they also look much stronger than the stock ones!).
My shackles are currently pointing straight down, so I guess the length is good (whatever it may be).
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f138/jfrabat/Jeep/DSC00116.jpg)
Anyway, as you can see, these springs are not full military wrap at the shackle, but they were still a little stiff for my taste, but they do have poly bushings...
Felipe
-
Judging by your picture I'd say those are 1/2 to 3/4" lift shackles. Some manufacturers do that 1/2 wrap at the shackle end so that they can get away with using stock shackles. A full military wrap spring won't fit on a stock shackle and still be able to move.
-
Judging by your picture I'd say those are 1/2 to 3/4" lift shackles. Some manufacturers do that 1/2 wrap at the shackle end so that they can get away with using stock shackles. A full military wrap spring won't fit on a stock shackle and still be able to move.
Unless you don't use the locking bolt in the center. Most guy's I know don't run the center bolt since that stiffens them up.
-
Judging by your picture I'd say those are 1/2 to 3/4" lift shackles. Some manufacturers do that 1/2 wrap at the shackle end so that they can get away with using stock shackles. A full military wrap spring won't fit on a stock shackle and still be able to move.
Unless you don't use the locking bolt in the center. Most guy's I know don't run the center bolt since that stiffens them up.
I think the main problem with stock length shackles is in the rear of YJ's because the full military wrap will hit the frame when trying to flex.
-
Unless you don't use the locking bolt in the center. Most guy's I know don't run the center bolt since that stiffens them up.
The stock shackles I had did not have the middle bolt... Here's a pic from before I changed the shackles.
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f138/jfrabat/Jeep/DSC02419.jpg)
[quote author=neale_rs link=topic=3798.msg29647#msg29647 I think the main problem with stock length shackles is in the rear of YJ's because the full military wrap will hit the frame when trying to flex.[/quote]
Well, the rear's got boomerang shackles to avoid hitting the frame... Here's that pic:
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f138/jfrabat/Jeep/DSC00119.jpg)
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f138/jfrabat/Jeep/DSC00118.jpg)
Felipe
PS: Sorry for hijacking the thread...
-
The stock shackles I had did not have the middle bolt... Here's a pic from before I changed the shackles.
Felipe
PS: Sorry for hijacking the thread...
Yes, but they are also only 4" eye-to-eye. Currie among some other like to connect both sides of the shackles together to give them strength when going longer. Most of the guy's who wheel either do not use H shackles or remove the bolt when upgrading shackles. Stock shackles are stamped steel and have the bevel to help add strength to them. Problem with stamped shackles is that teh bolt holes usually elongate over time causing slop in the suspension.
-
Check DC4wd for pricing on a RE 4" std... you will end up with ~ 6" of lift (+/-).
If you don't want that much go for the RE 2(.5)" whatever...
Great pricing.
-
black diamond 3.5" w/ 31's
and a set of these shackles i got for 5 bucks in the rear, with stock front shackles for the moment
(http://www.4wd.com/aux_incl/images.ashx?i=4014-OL.jpg&w=550&h=550)
(http://jeeperz.tenmagazines.com/gallery/dirtridr89/95310.jpg)
-
ok i ordered the lift kit. but i probly wont have time to install it but im will definately post pictures of me installing the lift kit. now before i go any further. i was thinking about 2inch lift shackles( which say they add a 1 inch lift) for the front end and boomerangs in the backend.
is that a good idea or should i consider somthing else? i want the front end to be slightly higher then the rear due i dont have powersteering. my 4banger is pretty much bare lightweight on the front end
i mean bare. only 3 vbelt pully's on the motor and no extras to add weight. no powersteering pump airconditioning or anything.
my friends cj 7 has almost the same setup except his is carb and he runs 33x10.5 which is pretty narrow. those are the size im planning on. remmember guys i already have a 2 inch body lift. so i know my fenders will well clear my tires.
he used the stock shackles in the rear and lift shackles on the front end. i felt very comfortable steering the jeep.
some advise before i screw myself. i want to do this one shot and for all
also will i need extended brake hoses?
THANK YOU GUYS ALL FOR HELPING ME!!! 4BANGERJP RULES!!!
http://i158.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid158.photobucket.com/albums/t112/JeepyQuy/camerapics237.flv
In most cases you'll get more lift out of the rear then the front. If you install lift shackles on the front only, it will make the Jeep sit level (BTDT). The downside to that is lift shackles of 2-3" throw off the front end geometry if not done properly. Since the lift shackle lifts only one end of the suspension, it will cause the pinion to point upwards, throwing it out of phase although not really an issue with a YJ unless you're in 4wd, have a locker or LSD up front as the front driveshaft does not turn. The caster of the axles will be lessened (see image) which may case wandering issues and the steering wheel won't center as quickly as it once did.
(http://www.hellbentcycles.com/Trike%20Design%20101%20%20part-1_files/image001.gif)
You can fix this by either relocating the perches or by using degree shims. The other issue which I've mentioned is that most lift shackles are 'H' shackles with a bar of some sort in the middle. This setup isn't really sought after and most people who wheel, remove the bar if it's a bolt. Sometimes though the bar can't be removed and is welded into place. Also, some H shackles have problems with military wrap leafs (another reason for not getting them) On the 1.25" lift the center bar was offset in favor of the leaf side. If I was running military wrap leafs, they would have defiantly rubbed and not not have cleared. I've seen some Currie knockoffs that had the center bolt offset as well. Typically the material used is 1/4" plate which is very thick compared the stock shackles. I don't think I've ever seen an aftermarket set collapse.