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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: Oilsmoke on October 01, 2008, 10:52:39 AM
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I would to tight-up my Steering. I was looking at Stock replacement parts from 4WD.com Is there a Better place to shop? Or is there a Better setup For a DD.
Thx for Any imput.
Oilsmoke
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For stock replacement parts, any local auto parts store should be fine. Have you diagnosed where the slop is, or are you just going to start throwing parts at it?
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Old Jeep
It's not real sloppy. I tighten the set screw in the steering box about 1/4 turn and it help some,Last summer. Jeeps over 150K So I thought I would just go throgh the tie-rod ends.
Napa was 150+ on the long rod and about 45 for the other 3. Damm thats like 300 dollars.
I think it the first tierod on the pitman arm. It would take the most abuse Right?
I was told the Ball joints where replace at 130k before i bought the Jeep in 2003 with 143k. They seam tight last time I greased the all the Zerks on the jeep last month.
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Old Jeep
It's not real sloppy. I tighten the set screw in the steering box about 1/4 turn and it help some,Last summer. Jeeps over 150K So I thought I would just go throgh the tie-rod ends.
Napa was 150+ on the long rod and about 45 for the other 3. Damm thats like 300 dollars.
I think it the first tierod on the pitman arm. It would take the most abuse Right?
I was told the Ball joints where replace at 130k before i bought the Jeep in 2003 with 143k. They seam tight last time I greased the all the Zerks on the jeep last month.
For the price, I'd look for a standard set that uses a threaded shaft instead of a combination rod/shaft like the stock set.
The tie-rods that take the most abuse is the one that connects the drag-link to the tie-rod. It usually gets wallowed out as the end tends to twist tierod before actually moving it. Then the ends get beat up from the constant twisting. Then you get a knock in the steering that can be heard when changing directions....
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Pretty easy to see worn out tie rod ends. Have a friend crank the wheel back and forth and look at the movement of each TRE. It's real obvious when they have wallowed out in the socket.
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I think the worst on mine is the passenger side short TRE. That gets the most leverage, it seems.
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For the price, I'd look for a standard set that uses a threaded shaft instead of a combination rod/shaft like the stock set.
I´ve seen some threaded shafts with a passenger side tie rod end that has a hole for the drag link TRE to connect to instead of connecting to the long stock TRE. Is this TRE with a hole an off-the shelf part?
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Today I jack up one wheel and the Long TRE was bad. So Jeffy do you have any leads on a Jeep model or
after-market setup with a thread end setup?. If Not i plan on just ordering a new stock setup on line off of 4wd.com.
Thx for All the input and Lets keep this thread moveing for a Better setup that Stock, for the other people who will need it in the future. Is the High steer setup the only other options out there?
Oilsmoke
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One of the best setups is the ORO U-turn, if you're willing to spend the $$$$ (Which I'm not)
Otherwise, something like this is a good choice:
http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=RS-SC250-UV&Category_Code=ste
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Today I jack up one wheel and the Long TRE was bad. So Jeffy do you have any leads on a Jeep model or
after-market setup with a thread end setup?. If Not i plan on just ordering a new stock setup on line off of 4wd.com.
Thx for All the input and Lets keep this thread moveing for a Better setup that Stock, for the other people who will need it in the future. Is the High steer setup the only other options out there?
Oilsmoke
Jeep went from the inverted T (aka: cross-over) to the Y with the XJ and then continued it with the TJ and subsequent models. The last time the inverted T was used was with the YJ so there aren't any Jeep sources. I'm not sure about other makes but there are several aftermarket options as well as DIY. The only hard part is getting the combination TRE with the socket for the drag-link, but that is a standard part.
Rugged Ridge sells a HD kit for what the OEM/Crown setup costs.
http://shoplive.rompalicious.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20&products_id=884
Rusty's Offroad had one as well:
http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=RS-SC250-UV&Category_Code=ste
JCR Offroad:
http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=1TNST&Category_Code=S6
Those are some of the ones that do not change teh steering from stock but rather upgrade the stock parts to beefier parts.
There are some High-steer kits out there as well but then cost can easily double.
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Thanks for that information. Those are some good options.
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http://www.partsmike.com/contactus.html can probably put something together for you, with replaceable TRE's at each end of the draglink and tierod.
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My JCR high steer kit...I love it.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3151/2803182123_03211bdc79_b.jpg)
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My JCR high steer kit...I love it.
Do you carry an extra passenger side TRE on the trail? One of the 2 problems I've got with the JCR stuff is that they modify an off the shelf TRE for their kit.
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nope...considering where it is and how strong it is, the chances of failure seem pretty low.....and I'm just a poseur anyway... :wave:
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nope...considering where it is and how strong it is, the chances of failure seem pretty low.....and I'm just a poseur anyway... :wave:
How strong what is? Those TRE's they use are the same thing used on 1/2 ton chevys' from the 70's.
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Do you carry an extra passenger side TRE on the trail? One of the 2 problems I've got with the JCR stuff is that they modify an off the shelf TRE for their kit.
Mine is the same way, from PartsMike. Reverse reamed stabilizer hole.
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Mine is the same way, from PartsMike. Reverse reamed stabilizer hole.
That's where JCR gets theirs......
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How strong what is? Those TRE's they use are the same thing used on 1/2 ton chevys' from the 70's.
They were used in 3/4 ton as well. More than enough considering the geometry of their steering and the other parts used.
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Well I have to Work this weekend So i was in a hurry and I ordered the Stock parts just 30 minutess before Jeffy Posted the Info. I wanted the Rugged Ridge Setup. So I tried to cancel my Order and they Had it Shipped out of Denver. Damm that was fast. I sure it will cost me shipping back so I quess I am Stuck with it. :mad: It should be here Monday Though.
Thanks Guys for are the Great Imput. I wish I could of used it.
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Stock long TRE and small end Install So the loosenest Is gone and I will install the drag link this friday when i am Off work.
The Stock replacement parts will work Great for My Needs. nice to feel a tight one agian. :hitit:
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There's a pair of WJ knuckles on a local board for $100 if anybody is looking to highsteer a d30.
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There's a pair of WJ knuckles on a local board for $100 if anybody is looking to highsteer a d30.
Once you do all the custom work isn't it cheaper to just buy the teraflex knuckle that just bolts on?
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Does the WJ knuckle raise the tie bar and drag link or just the drag link? I recently saw that Teraflex offers a tie rod flip kit also that will raise the tie rod but I don't think it would work with an SOA (for those who have SOA in front).
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It raises the drag-link. Although you can retap the knuckles so you can then mount the tie-rod ontop of the knuckles. Which may or may not interfere with the leaf pack on a SOA.
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For an SUA jeep (YJ) it almost seems better (simplicity and cost) to just do the flip and continue to use an inverted T steering setup. On my YJ it looks like it would be a tight fit with the wheel, I keep thinking 16" rims might be needed.
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For an SUA jeep (YJ) it almost seems better (simplicity and cost) to just do the flip and continue to use an inverted T steering setup. On my YJ it looks like it would be a tight fit with the wheel, I keep thinking 16" rims might be needed.
IIRC, if you want to do the whole WJ swap with the two pot brakes, then going with larger wheels might not be a bad idea. 17" seem to be more common with the more extreme rockcrawlers out here.
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These are good projects. Thanks for the ideas.
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17" seem to be more common with the more extreme rockcrawlers out here.
True...that's why I run 17's.....
:whistle:
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True...that's why I run 17's.....
:whistle:
I thought you did it so you could add spinners later on... :stick: :guns:
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True...that's why I run 17's.....
:whistle:
We;ve already seen your extreme tire humping, thank you very much.... :lol:
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I thought you did it so you could add spinners later on... :stick: :guns:
I gots dubs in da garage for that!!
:twofingers:
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Once you do all the custom work isn't it cheaper to just buy the teraflex knuckle that just bolts on?
Maybe, but for less $$ you can have the larger hubs, calipers, and rotors of the WJ.
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OK I installed and Center the Pitman and Drag link so the steering wheel Is now striaght. I had to dremal two of the location spline son the wheel lock to move the horn contact so i could keep the pitman arm at a 90. Lift kit did this.
But it correct now. Jeep Steers like New :thumbsup: