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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: Complete Loser on January 05, 2011, 12:26:56 AM
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I have a new(ish) 305 tunedport and 3 (2wd) th350's layin around.
This 305 really wants to be in the jeep. So im thinking about it. My questions.
Has anyone here done this?
If so, does the 350/231 increase drive shaft length?
Is there a less expensive th350/231 adapter than $400?
Any specific mounts anyone recommends? (Novak?)
Is there a specific header set needed?
Would an easier route be, Get an ax15, change shaft to fit 231, then adapt ax15 to 305?
Im also not opposed to ditching the 231. Or going with a manual tranny of any make.
The main theme is, use the 305 and go the least expensive route.
Any help is appreciated. I have been searching the forum, and will keep doin so.
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I'd skip the 305. For teh same amount of work you could have a 350 and you wodn't say, I wish I had a 350 later.
I would go with a 350/700R4/NP231-C for the least amount of trouble and no adapters. Adapters are going to cost $500-600 and you'd be better off saving that. IIRC, you'd be best using either the stock manifolds or shorty headers. You might want to look at AA's site for more specifics on the swap. They have everything you'd need.
Might want to check local and state laws on swaps as well.
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Thanks Jeffy.
I have a 350 .060+ with 12:1 domed pistons, and crane 274 energizer. Blue printed and balanced. :weee: I dont play hot rods and indians too much anymore. So it sits under my workbench for now.
Im apparently not like the rest of the crowd round here, lol (insert joke). This will be my daily driver. I want a cruiser. Not a bruiser.
Im kinda over the 'maximum' power kick, and want 'maximum' efficiency. This gawd aweful 150 4banger sure as hell aint the epitome of efficiency.
When we (the family) do play, we already have our own vehicles specifically built for playing offroad. We have hundreds of acres to play on aswell.
So I definitely wont say I wish I had a 350 in the jeep. And if i did get the itch, its just a matter of swappin the 2 small blocks. So no biggie.
So the 700r4 will make love to the 231 no problems?? 2wd 700r also? Im sure im just being paranoid, but the 700r has a REALLY bad reputation for being a massive dog turd around these parts. (and the 4l60e seems to be keeping up the trend... im on my 4th one in the silverado).
Out of 5 of my friends back in the day, who ran untouched 700r's, 4 had constant or eventual problems.
But I would love the OD. I hope those are just isolated problems.
I will def consider this option.
I did find an adapter for ax15 to SBC. http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_gmax15.htm Ofcourse, this would require me to come up with an ax15, and a shaft change for the tcase.
Ive also read, just get an S15 tranny and tcase and problem solved. ? ?
The juices are flowing. :thumbsup:
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http://advanceadapters.com/product/1823/50-9103.html :confused: "Least amount of trouble and no adapters" ?
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Look for a 700R4 with a 231 already bolted to it. It would save you the $500 for the adapter. Plus I would imagine it's a 23 spline not a 21.
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The reason for going with the 350 isn't to go big. The 350 is pretty standard and if you keep it in stock form, it will be pretty reliable. Not to mention, there is usually not much of a difference in block prices.
The 700R4 and the 4L60E are basically the same transmission. They can be built to stand up to big block power. Most of the bad reputation happened with the early 700R4's from the 80's.
You will need a 4x4 transmission unless you like hunting for adapters. You will also need a 231-C not 231-J. These use a 5 bolt pattern instead of the Jeep/Dodge 6 bolt pattern. The spline count should be 27 and not 21 or 23 either. C stands for Chevy. J is for Jeep and D is for Dodge. There is also a HD which is usually a Dodge but could also be a Chevy. The sprockets are larger as well as the chain. 1" vs 1.25". The planetary is also different/stronger. 3 gears vs 6 gears. The D, HD and I think C are all rated for 1/2T applications.
If you're wanting to keep it cheap then don't use any adapters. Go with a mated pair. A S10/S15 transmission will be a 700R4 or a 4L60E depending on the year. Well, unless it's a manual and then it would be a NV3500. The transfer case will be a NP or NVG231-C.
You could also use that TH350 but then you won't have a OD. The TH350 would give you a longer rear driveshaft if length was an issue.
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Thanks. Great info as usual.
Im actually leaning towards ax15 now. From recent boneyard searches it looks like its gonna be much easier to aquire an ax15/231 already mated, rather than a questionable chevy donor that wont need rebuilt.
Considering that swap, what is the ax15 overal length compared to ax5?
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With a Chevy V8 you might as well use an SM465 and skip the engine to tranny adapters plus it is much stronger than the AX15. Then just get a Chevy transfer case.
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Thanks neale. But im after OD if I can get it. Great idea though. I know I have a muncie out at the farm somewhere.
Strength shouldnt be an issue in this case, since i never wheel the jeep, and run stock tires.
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I don't think the AX-15 is really up to the task of a V8. If you're looking for a manual then you would be better off getting a NV3500. Getting a one from a Chevy, specially a S10/S15/Jimmy/Blazer would more then likely have been rarely used in 4WD and never beat on. You also get the stronger transfer case.
That's based on the rear driveshaft size, you gain around 4" going from a AX-5 to AX-15. AX-5 is the shortest followed by both automatics then the AX-15
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That's based on the rear driveshaft size, you gain around 4" going from a AX-5 to AX-15. AX-5 is the shortest followed by both automatics then the AX-15
I dont understand your wording there. The AX5 is 4in longer than the AX15?
Thanks. Will also look for the 3500.
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I dont understand your wording there. The AX5 is 4in longer than the AX15?
Thanks. Will also look for the 3500.
he probably meant the other way around as in AX5 is about 4'' shorter than AX15
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I dont understand your wording there. The AX5 is 4in longer than the AX15?
Thanks. Will also look for the 3500.
The AX-15 will be 4" longer
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According to the Novak site, the AX15 is only about 1" longer. I've also been looking into an AX15 swap and contacted Advance Adapters. They said that with their adapter plate, the TC would end up about 2" farther back than with the AX5.
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According to the Novak site, the AX15 is only about 1" longer. I've also been looking into an AX15 swap and contacted Advance Adapters. They said that with their adapter plate, the TC would end up about 2" farther back than with the AX5.
just buy a Dakota bellhousing - cheaper and cleaner than using a bellhousing adapter.
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Hmm, maybe the other inches were from the different engine location. I know the rear driveshaft needs to be shortened.
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new question. I have found some 4L60e's, and np233's. How much trouble would it be to get these to work?
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new question. I have found some 4L60e's, and np233's. How much trouble would it be to get these to work?
4L60E is computer controlled, IIRC. Gonna need the harness and computer. NP233 is a 231 with an electric actuator instead of the shift lever.
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Another question, will a np241c work. Looks like there is pass and drivers drop versions.
http://www.lunghd.com/Downloads_and_Links/Xfer%20Case%20Identification.pdf
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an another questions
The only SYE's ive found on ebay appear to be only for jeeps. 231j.
If i got a blazer drive train, would I need a different SYE. One that fits 231c? Or or they both the same?
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Another question, will a np241c work. Looks like there is pass and drivers drop versions.
http://www.lunghd.com/Downloads_and_Links/Xfer%20Case%20Identification.pdf
A 241 is about 150% larger then a 231. It can work but there aren't as many options for it like there is for the 231. The 231 has been used on 1/2T trucks like the (360) Ram 1500, (318) Durango, etc...
an another questions
The only SYE's ive found on ebay appear to be only for jeeps. 231j.
If i got a blazer drive train, would I need a different SYE. One that fits 231c? Or or they both the same?
Because Jeeps are the only ones that really suffer from a short driveshaft. All of the 231 family are the same basically. You can mix and match parts still you get something that works. So yes, you can put a SYE on a C, D or HD.
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Another question. I found a brand new Tom Woods cv drive shaft with OX joints for a wrangler for $75. Thats a great deal, but its a front drive shaft. I will need a rear shaft for when I install my sye kit.
My question, once the power train is in place, could I then shorten this shaft and use it as the rear?
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Another question. I found a brand new Tom Woods cv drive shaft with OX joints for a wrangler for $75. Thats a great deal, but its a front drive shaft. I will need a rear shaft for when I install my sye kit.
My question, once the power train is in place, could I then shorten this shaft and use it as the rear?
If you wanted to.
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Another question. I found a brand new Tom Woods cv drive shaft with OX joints for a wrangler for $75. Thats a great deal, but its a front drive shaft. I will need a rear shaft for when I install my sye kit.
My question, once the power train is in place, could I then shorten this shaft and use it as the rear
I didn't know OX made driveshaft U joints? TW mostly uses Spicer or his own Gold Seal joints. Sounds fishy to me.
Either way once you have your new drivetrain stuff installed it can be shortened and used on the rear.
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Thanks guys. I will investigate deeper.
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Got the drive shaft. Its a beast. Dont know why he was calling the joints 'OX', but they are the golden seal joints. And looking up the ox joints, they are QUITE a bit different.
But never the less. Shaft acquired. Shaft good.
Now on to more questions. I was offered a BA10/np231amc for a couple bucks. So I just took it for parts. I know the BA stands for 'Barely Adequate'.
My newest question, ofcourse it all turned out to be 21spline :brick: so can I get a 23 spline input gear and throw it in this 231, while it awaits an ax15?
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Is the ax15 found in 4x4 dakotas the same as the jeep ax15?
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Is the ax15 found in 4x4 dakotas the same as the jeep ax15?
you can bolt the bellhousing to a jeep ax15 or NV3550. as far as i know the output end is different (but can't tell for sure or what the differences are).
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Is the ax15 found in 4x4 dakotas the same as the jeep ax15?
Yes and no. Internally it's the same BUT externally, the Dakota's AX-15 is clocked a few degrees off center.
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the Dakota's AX-15 is clocked a few degrees off center.
how's that working? the bellhousing is the same (vertical on both engine and transmission end) - are the belhousing bolts offset on the AX15?
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how's that working? the bellhousing is the same (vertical on both engine and transmission end) - are the belhousing bolts offset on the AX15?
I believe so.
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how's that working? the bellhousing is the same (vertical on both engine and transmission end) - are the belhousing bolts offset on the AX15?
Mine didn't clock anything that I could tell, everything seems straight.
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Mine didn't clock anything that I could tell, everything seems straight.
Can you elaborate? You have an ax15 out of a dodge in your jeep?
Thanks
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My mistake, the transmission isn't clocked the transfer case is, 6-7*.
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My mistake, the transmission isn't clocked the transfer case is, 6-7*.
yeah, i thought so that's why i said the output end but that's all from what i heard, never seen one myself. I wonder if it would be a better fit for a D300 swap (if it's clocked the right way and not actually increasing the droop).
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yeah, i thought so that's why i said the output end but that's all from what i heard, never seen one myself. I wonder if it would be a better fit for a D300 swap (if it's clocked the right way and not actually increasing the droop).
I've heard of people drilling out the flange to a standard 0* clock. (It's clocked to add drop.)
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I've heard of people drilling out the flange to a standard 0* clock. (It's clocked to add drop.)
so that would make it even worse for a D300.
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One thing to note is the 4cyl Dakota transmission is a 2wd ax-15, the 4cyl Dakotas didn't come in 4x4, and the v-6 and v-8 Dakotas used the NV3500 with the non-removable bellhousing, the trans output might be clocked a little more than a Jeep trans, I never compared them, but unless your swapping in a V motor it really wont matter. (note all the above info is for standard trans vehicles, I make no comments on autos as I haven't pulled any yet)
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One thing to note is the 4cyl Dakota transmission is a 2wd ax-15, the 4cyl Dakotas didn't come in 4x4, and the v-6 and v-8 Dakotas used the NV3500 with the non-removable bellhousing, the trans output might be clocked a little more than a Jeep trans, I never compared them, but unless your swapping in a V motor it really wont matter. (note all the above info is for standard trans vehicles, I make no comments on autos as I haven't pulled any yet)
So that pretty much rules out using an ax15 from a Dakota, for me.
Thanks for the info.
:beers:
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My newest question, ofcourse it all turned out to be 21spline :brick: so can I get a 23 spline input gear and throw it in this 231, while it awaits an ax15?
Yes, you can. I have many 23spl input shafts if you need one. Need to know the length of the input shaft needed.
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Thanks bounty. Your always there for me. lol
I will keep you in mind.
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Here is some good info over here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=735270 and here http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=162
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The dakota bell has the 2.8 V6 chev pattern not rebop doesn't it?
Dave
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The dakota bell has the 2.8 V6 chev pattern not rebop doesn't it?
Dave
yes it's the 2.8 chev which is the same as the 2.5L Jeep/Chrysler and that's b/c it used the 151cuin GM engine in Jeeps (so they decided to keep the pattern probably to make for an easy transition on the assembly line)
what's rebop?
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OOps my bad, we used to refer to Chevy vs BOP (Buick,Olsmobile,Pontiac) bell housing patterns, rebop was the dual drilled versions stood for repower-BOP..
I did not think the SBC would bolt up to the 4cyl bell housing. Tha'ts why I was asking. In the Monza's and Vega you had to swap a bell housing to fit a SBC in it...
One nice thing about a 305 vs the 350 is that he 305 crank usually spins way smoother than the 350 at higher RPM's unless you buy a fancier than stock one.
Dave