Topic: .060 over, valve job, 4.0 TB, Absolutely TERRIBLE Highway mileage

[Bigboi]

Uhhm, waatt? Both of my heads have bolts for the intake/exhaust and is also shown this way in the FSM, theres 1 stud for the middle and thats all there is for studs on my original head, while the one i pulled had ALL bolts

if theres some kinda illustration/pics u can show me that would be Awesome....

i have a nice tick going on and i dont think its gasket related, tick gets louder under load

With these lifters, in my experience, i buy em from the store, prime em by hand with oil, i can press the inside all the way in No problem, with ALL of the ones ive pulled (Even newer ones with low miles) they have been locked up and i cant press the middle down as i did before installing them, Is this normal?

[sharpxmen]

With these lifters, in my experience, i buy em from the store, prime em by hand with oil, i can press the inside all the way in No problem, with ALL of the ones ive pulled (Even newer ones with low miles) they have been locked up and i cant press the middle down as i did before installing them, Is this normal?

yes, they bleed very slowly if you put like 100lbs of pressure on them, (and that means they work as expected, otherwise you have a tick).

[Bigboi]

yes, they bleed very slowly if you put like 100lbs of pressure on them, (and that means they work as expected, otherwise you have a tick).

then i am going to get some compound and clean up my valves on my original head and reinstall it, idk if the valve job caused the tick, but its from the top end, as long as the bottom end has 0 problems ill be happy (no need to fully disassemble the engine) the head is easy to swap out

[sharpxmen]

then i am going to get some compound and clean up my valves on my original head and reinstall it, idk if the valve job caused the tick, but its from the top end, as long as the bottom end has 0 problems ill be happy (no need to fully disassemble the engine) the head is easy to swap out

the tick is most likely from your exhaust manifold.

EDIT: i suggest at least get a grind on the valves if you're not going to do the seats, otherwise you'll just make the groove deeper and will be back where you started shortly. Imo if your current head is fine (take a compression test) just leave it alone (unless you have broken studs/bolts you can't take out with it installed)

[Bigboi]

the tick is most likely from your exhaust manifold.

EDIT: i suggest at least get a grind on the valves if you're not going to do the seats, otherwise you'll just make the groove deeper and will be back where you started shortly. Imo if your current head is fine (take a compression test) just leave it alone (unless you have broken studs/bolts you can't take out with it installed)

the front most bolt is broken off in the head which goes through the exhaust, it doesnt seem impossible, just seems like it would be a PITA to tap it and rethread it with the head in place, but i may be wrong

EDIT: Do you think running the engine with the loose bolts damaged the exhaust manifold causing the tick? because i never heard this tick before, but then again i should retap the bolt hole before replacing the gasket

[Wrench]

I always bleed the lifters with them installed, and use an adapter to turn the oil pump with the distributor removed.  It will prime them all the way up the pushrod tubes without turning the engine over.

And anytime you replace a lifter or cam, throw some break-in additive in there with a good zinc content.

[sharpxmen]

EDIT: Do you think running the engine with the loose bolts damaged the exhaust manifold causing the tick? because i never heard this tick before, but then again i should retap the bolt hole before replacing the gasket

i don't know if that's the only tick you have but it's known with our engines that a broken bolt causes a noise which is sometimes mistaken with a lifter tick. I had the rear most broken and it was a pita to get it drilled and chase the thread, it was making a tick like noise.

[Bigboi]

i don't know if that's the only tick you have but it's known with our engines that a broken bolt causes a noise which is sometimes mistaken with a lifter tick. I had the rear most broken and it was a pita to get it drilled and chase the thread, it was making a tick like noise.

the front most exhaust bolt is broken off, mechanic friend suggested something called "Easy out" (I think) that i can get from like home depot or lowes

would the FSM have the bolt specifications so i could look as to which bit i need to pull the broken bolt?

[Jeffy]

EZ-Out's are a good way to make a job 1000x more difficult.  Typically what happens is that you drill the bolt then when you insert the EZ-Out, it smapps off leaving a hardened steel slug in it's place.

If you can get down there, use a reverse cut drill bit.  Start small and besure to center tap it.   If you're lucky you'll the bolt will unscrew itself.  Depending on where it broke you might be able to just unscrew it or get vice grips on it once the manifolds are off.  If not you can work you way up in drill size and slowly eat the bolt up from inside.  Once it gets to a certain point it will usually unthread as long as you drilled straight and didn't hit the threads.

You can see the threaded studs here.  The only problem I have is that they sometimes back out, threads and all, which isn't even a problem.

[Bigboi]

the fordward most threaded stud on the cylinder head in the picture u posted is the one which is broken off inside of the head, it has nothing to grip, its broken below the head surface

theres no threaded studs on the head i just put on my engine, just bolts, my original head has the top middle threaded stud and thats it

[Jeffy]

the fordward most threaded stud on the cylinder head in the picture u posted is the one which is broken off inside of the head, it has nothing to grip, its broken below the head surface

theres no threaded studs on the head i just put on my engine, just bolts, my original head has the top middle threaded stud and thats it

Someone's changed them then.  If the hot tanked the head then they removed all of the bolts and studs anyway.

[sharpxmen]

they are 3/8 coarse thread

I drilled and tapped in the center and used a drill stop on the bit to know how much to go in (measured another hole prior to that). I started with a center punch, then a center drill to spot it and then went with a small bit and tried to keep it centered and leveled. Went higher and checked each time (don't go larger bit than the minor diameter, i was probably lower than that in the end), i was off the center by .020 or so and at some point i was able to see the tip of the threads with a mirror on one side, i got a small screwdriver in and was able to unscrew what was left in there, took like 2 hours for the bolt itself (not counting the manifolds and such), pain in the rear

[Bigboi]

well i know that one of the valves was worn the hell down, no doubt it needed a valve job...

i hope the loud ass tick is exhaust gasket related

if the manifold gasket is leaking wouldnt that cause the 1st o2 sensors readings to be off causing a difference in the fuel mix?

[sharpxmen]

if the manifold gasket is leaking wouldnt that cause the 1st o2 sensors readings to be off causing a difference in the fuel mix?

i doubt that would make a big difference unless the hole is large (like a crack in the manifold that's open).