Topic: Oil Leak Problem - Passenger Side - Need Help.

[Jeffy]

One way would be to clean it all up and throw talc over the areas you suspect.  Then drive it and then look for runs.  I doubt a real main seal is going to spray oil all over the place.

The valve cover won't be wet.  it will usually leak out the backside near the firewall then down the block.  I don't think it's going to make it to the starter though.  Oil filter is probably be the cause there.  Make sure it's tightened properly.  Didn't you say you already changed it?

You can inspect the main seal by pulling the engine or transmission and removing the flywheel.  If the main seal is leaking you'd see drips from the inspection slot at the bottom of the bellhousing.

[grumpygy]

One thing to remember, oil does not flow against the wind  So it blows back not forward.

[DanMarino]

Ok I think I found something. While searching around I noticed the oil pan bolts are loose. I tightened a bunch up but it looks like a few bolts are behind the starter. So how do I get the starter off? Looks like some strange bolts holding the starter on.

[Jeffy]

Ok I think I found something. While searching around I noticed the oil pan bolts are loose. I tightened a bunch up but it looks like a few bolts are behind the starter. So how do I get the starter off? Looks like some strange bolts holding the starter on.

IIRC it's an external Torx E-12 socket.  I've heard some people use a 3/8 12 pt but you risk stripping the bolt head using the wrong tool.

[grumpygy]

IIRC it's an external Torx E-12 socket.  I've heard some people use a 3/8 12 pt but you risk stripping the bolt head using the wrong tool.

I used the 12 point 3/8 No Problem.  But then Mine was covered in oil so the bolts were well lubricated.

[DanMarino]

I checked the Jeep again last night after driving it to and from work. Seems light tightening the oil pan bolts took care of most of what was left of the leak. There is slight dripping on the starter and I think it is coming from the oil pan gasket above where the starter is. The oil filter is dry and it is still dry at the distributor base, head gasket, valve cover, and oil pressure sensor.

 So it looks like I will need to do the oil pan gasket when I get some spare time this summer.

[DanMarino]

Additional follow-up here in case anyone cares.
Tightening the oil pan bolts helped reduce the oil leak tremendously.  There is a slight drip now, that I hope will be cured when I replace the oil pan gasket later this summer.

[VA_YJ]

That's good news.  I changed my oil pan gasket awhile back (used blue Felpro) and made some alignment pins to hold the gasket in position as described in FSM:

Fabricate 4 alignment dowels from 1/4 × 1 1/2 inch bolts. Cut the head off the bolts and cut a slot into the top of the dowel. This will allow easier installation and removal with a screwdriver.

Install two dowels in the timing case cover, install the other two dowels in the back of the cylinder block (near the four corners).

Install the 1/4 inch oil pan bolts. Tighten these bolts to 14 Nm (120 in. lbs.) torque. Install the 5/16 inch oil pan bolts. Tighten these bolts to 18 Nm (156 in. lbs.) torque.

Pull the pins and install the last four 1/4" bolts.

[AWK]

That's good news.  I changed my oil pan gasket awhile back (used blue Felpro) and made some alignment pins to hold the gasket in position as described in FSM:

Fabricate 4 alignment dowels from 1/4 × 1 1/2 inch bolts. Cut the head off the bolts and cut a slot into the top of the dowel. This will allow easier installation and removal with a screwdriver.

Install two dowels in the timing case cover, install the other two dowels in the back of the cylinder block (near the four corners).

Install the 1/4 inch oil pan bolts. Tighten these bolts to 14 Nm (120 in. lbs.) torque. Install the 5/16 inch oil pan bolts. Tighten these bolts to 18 Nm (156 in. lbs.) torque.

Pull the pins and install the last four 1/4" bolts.

Good Information, wish I would have had this a month ago when I changed mine!  I found my oil pan cracked on the passenger side (appears it had been repaired by one of the previous owners).   I just ordered a new pan, 133 bucks and it took two weeks to deliver.

AWK

[jagular7]

I had to replace my TJ's oil pan couple years ago...due to dents. I found one locally for $40.

Check out car-part.com. Website of local yards.

[DanMarino]

Still leaking.  Didn't do the oil pan gasket yet. Took it to a local shop and the guy thought it was blow by coming out of the oil dipstick tube.  I agree with this.  It is oily on things like the distributor cap and oil filter and that general area and it is dripping down towards the starter.

So I started checking the vacuum lines on the valve cover. I had already replaced the CCV elbow on the fire wall side of the valve cover, suspecting it was plugged. However, I did not check the brass fitting on the front of the valve cover, driver side. Last night I removed that from the valve cover and cleaned that sucker out. I blew a bunch of carb cleaner into the throttle body fitting on the other end too.

After that I pulled the dipstick and put a rubber glove over the dipstick tube. With the engine at idle it would suck the glove in at the dipstick tube. I gave the engine a bunch of throttle and it still sucked the glove. So I think that clogged brass fitting might have been the main problem. This weekend I will degrease the engine again and do some driving to monitor for leaks.

I think I need to take the valve cover off and clean the baffles out underneath.

[DanMarino]

I pulled the valve cover off and cleaned the baffles inside.  Put on a new valve cover gasket and got it all back together.  The oil leak seems much reduced.  That clogged brass fitting seems to be the main problem.  I will clean the passenger side of the engine off and monitor for leaks.