Topic: Steering is feeling a bit hard

[jfrabat]

Guys, where should I start looking for the culprit on this?  Ever since I got back from wheeling I have felt the steering wheel a bit hard.  In fact, if I am in a turn, and I let go of the wheel, instead of coming back to center (like it used to do), the steering will continue on the turn.  My suspicions so far lay on either or many of the following:

• Bad power steering pump: Ever since I installed the Hydro Boost (some years ago), the pump whines, so it would not come as a surprise that the pump is done for.  I think a big issue has to do that now the highest point in the system is the booster itself (which is as high as the brake master), so the air has a hard time coming out.  By the way, I looked as PSC heavy duty pumps, but they run for $500 (without the shipping and duties to bring it down here), which I find preposterous!  But there is still pressure from the pump (I already checked the liquid, so it's not that, just in case you were thinking about mentioning it).
• Something got bent: I forgot to tie up the swaybar after I disconnected it.  When I came back, the Sway bar was on the wrong side, so I had to lift the Jeep to get it back to the right side.  I don't know if during wheeling, the swaybar cause something to bend by getting caught on the steering.I have taken a couple of looks down there and can't see anything obviously bent, but maybe it is a very minor bend that is not easy to catch?
• Alignment is out of whack: I know it is, actually, but it was so before I went wheeling.  Unless it's something to do with the caster or something like that, I don't see this one being the main culprit.

So what do you think I should look at first?

Felipe

[VA_YJ]

Felipe - I would start with checking the alignment.  You can do a rough check of the toe in by measuring the difference between the outer edges of your front tires (the difference between the leading and trailing ends).  6-12mm is typical.  You can find "how to" info on the web.  For example, there's a Savage Sun website that has some DIY alignment tips.  http://www.savagesun4x4.com/

[VA_YJ]

correction: 3-9mm toe in is typical

From Savage Sun:

Setting the toe:  Viewing the tire(s) from the side some things are very critical.  Know the keys and success will be the result.

key:  where you measure on the front side of the tires NEEDS to be the same exact spot (height from the ground) on all 4 tires. 

key:  measure as high UP on the tire as you can get at on front, back and the same place on the other tire.

key:  the OPTIMAL point is the max forward leading and rear trailing point of the tire. Like this:  ' >0< '   WHY?  as you go DOWN and around the tire the front and rear points get closer together and in order to get you 1/8th toe in (+/- 1/16th in) you adjustments have to get larger meaning the wheel has to be moved more in order to get the 1/8th in difference.

After you have set your toe, drove it and then rechecked it, YES it will likely change some, but about 1/16th is within tolerance.

Now take a tape measure and measure from 1 grease fitting to the other grease fitting on your tie rod.  Using a 'silver' perm marker write it down on any flat surface underneath and annotate whether or not you measured from the outside or inside of the grease fitting.   Ever need to remove or replace your tie road or get a bent tie rod then just look at your measurement between the grease fittings and use that as a starting point.  It should be VERY close.

Remember you need to loosen BOTH jam nuts on the tie rod and on the drag link then turn the tie rod/drag link, then tighten your jam nuts.  TIP:  You want to note the amount of visible threads and try to get the tie rod ends at the same depth on each side.

Those are the principles or keys if you will that will insure you get as good a toe in as the shop does.

[neale_rs]

You may want to check the leaf spring to see if they got bent.

[VA_YJ]

sorry - 2-4mm toe in is the spec.  I'm not used to metric - but that's what you use in SA

[Jeffy]

I'd check the alignment first.  Toe-in is what causes the wheels to center.

Here's how we used to do alignments in the shop back in the day.  Lift the front off the ground to both tires can spin freely.  Try to point the tires parallel to the Jeep as much as you can.  Then take a piece of chalk and hold it to the center of the tire tread.  It's best to make a fist and have it on the floor then press the chalk into the tire with your thumb. (We used to have a chalk holder)  You want to hold it steady as you rotate or have someone else rotate the tire slowly.  Do that for both tires then take a tape measure and pick a spot and measure across to the other tire.  Then go 180* to the other side of the tire and do the same.  The difference is what your toe should be set at.

This is similar but they use paint and scribe a line on the tire for a bit more accuracy.

http://www.stu-offroad.com/steering/align/align-1.htm

Another way to do it is to strap something perfectly straight to the face of the wheel that extends past the tires.  You can use the center bore of the wheel to get it centered then a level to make sure it's flat.



There are many ways people are doing it...  Do a search on DIY alignment and you'll see.




Adjusting the tie-rod isn't a big deal.  It's all done on the driver side.  Loosen the two clamps and lift the lock bar and adjust.  If it needs to move a lot then you'll probably have to re-center your steering wheel with the draglink.  Only do that if the tires are bearing weight.

[chardrc]

I'd check the alignment first.  Toe-in is what causes the wheels to center.

Caster is actually what causes the wheels to center. Toe-in has an effect and is also needed to make it work but without caster it will not recenter.... I would still suggest checking the toe as it is easily adjustable but it may be a bent leaf pack messing up the caster.

[Jeffy]

 

Caster is actually what causes the wheels to center. Toe-in has an effect and is also needed to make it work but without caster it will not recenter.... I would still suggest checking the toe as it is easily adjustable but it may be a bent leaf pack messing up the caster.

I assumed he didn't screw up the caster since that would require major damage.