Author Topic: BDS 3.5 for 585.00  (Read 1843 times)

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Offline jfrabat

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Re: BDS 3.5 for 585.00
« Reply #15 on: November 21, 2007, 05:06:13 PM »
Unless you don't use the locking bolt in the center.  Most guy's I know don't run the center bolt since that stiffens them up.

The stock shackles I had did not have the middle bolt...  Here's a pic from before I changed the shackles.



[quote author=neale_rs link=topic=3798.msg29647#msg29647 I think the main problem with stock length shackles is in the rear of YJ's because the full military wrap will hit the frame when trying to flex.[/quote]

Well, the rear's got boomerang shackles to avoid hitting the frame...  Here's that pic:





Felipe

PS: Sorry for hijacking the thread... 

'94 YJ 2.5L with 4" RE lift, Superwinch EPi9.0, FoMoCo e-Fan, SD30 and SD35 w/ARB-5.13, 165A alt., 33" BFG KM2 on 15" AR wheels, Sony sound system, Pavement Ends Hardtop, Hydroboost

Offline Jeffy

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Re: BDS 3.5 for 585.00
« Reply #16 on: November 21, 2007, 05:25:31 PM »
The stock shackles I had did not have the middle bolt...  Here's a pic from before I changed the shackles.

Felipe

PS: Sorry for hijacking the thread... 

Yes, but they are also only 4" eye-to-eye.  Currie among some other like to connect both sides of the shackles together to give them strength when going longer.  Most of the guy's who wheel either do not use H shackles or remove the bolt when upgrading shackles.  Stock shackles are stamped steel and have the bevel to help add strength to them.  Problem with stamped shackles is that teh bolt holes usually elongate over time causing slop in the suspension.
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might4banger

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Re: BDS 3.5 for 585.00
« Reply #17 on: November 21, 2007, 06:27:29 PM »
Check DC4wd for pricing on a RE 4" std... you will end up with ~ 6" of lift (+/-).

If you don't want that much go for the RE 2(.5)" whatever...

Great pricing.

lanulos89

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Re: BDS 3.5 for 585.00
« Reply #18 on: November 22, 2007, 08:39:32 AM »
black diamond 3.5"  w/ 31's
and a set of these shackles i got for 5 bucks in the rear, with stock front shackles for the moment




Offline Jeffy

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Re: BDS 3.5 for 585.00
« Reply #19 on: November 23, 2007, 10:51:58 AM »
ok i ordered the lift kit. but i probly wont have time to install it but im will definately post pictures of me installing the lift kit.  now before i go any further. i was thinking about 2inch lift shackles( which say they add a 1 inch lift) for the front end and boomerangs in the backend.

is that a good idea or should i consider somthing else? i want the front end to be slightly higher then the rear due i dont have powersteering. my 4banger is pretty much bare lightweight on the front end

i mean bare. only 3 vbelt pully's on the motor and no extras to add weight. no powersteering pump airconditioning or anything.

my friends cj 7 has almost the same setup except his is carb and he runs 33x10.5 which is pretty narrow. those are the size im planning on. remmember guys i already have a 2 inch body lift. so i know my fenders will well clear my tires.

he used the stock shackles in the rear and lift shackles on the front end. i felt very comfortable steering the jeep.

some advise before i screw myself. i want to do this one shot and for all

also will i need extended brake hoses?

THANK YOU GUYS ALL FOR HELPING ME!!! 4BANGERJP RULES!!!
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In most cases you'll get more lift out of the rear then the front.  If you install lift shackles on the front only, it will make the Jeep sit level (BTDT).  The downside to that is lift shackles of 2-3" throw off the front end geometry if not done properly.  Since the lift shackle lifts only one end of the suspension, it will cause the pinion to point upwards, throwing it out of phase although not really an issue with a YJ unless you're in 4wd, have a locker or LSD up front as the front driveshaft does not turn.  The caster of the axles will be lessened (see image) which may case wandering issues and the steering wheel won't center as quickly as it once did.



You can fix this by either relocating the perches or by using degree shims.  The other issue which I've mentioned is that most lift shackles are 'H' shackles with a bar of some sort in the middle.  This setup isn't really sought after and most people who wheel, remove the bar if it's a bolt.  Sometimes though the bar can't be removed and is welded into place.  Also, some H shackles have problems with military wrap leafs (another reason for not getting them)  On the 1.25" lift the center bar was offset in favor of the leaf side.  If I was running military wrap leafs, they would have defiantly rubbed and not not have cleared.  I've seen some Currie knockoffs that had the center bolt offset as well.  Typically the material used is 1/4" plate which is very thick compared the stock shackles.  I don't think I've ever seen an aftermarket set collapse.
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