Topic: Starting issues, idle issues, blinker issues, clutch issues... Everything issues

[jcoleman]

My little jeep as you can see is filled with small and annoying problems. I had this posted on a local jeep forum, because I think I have asked some of this here multiple times. But after it being on there for a day I had no replies and like two views... And I know people know some of these answers they just didn't feel like helping out some guy they didn't know.  The only reason I didn't come straight here was because I didn't wanna piss any body off with the usual questions.  But here I am again. You guys are awesome.  And as Denzel said in Philadelphia, "Explain it to me... Like I'm a three year old." Many times the words for the actual parts lose me. the twirly thingy that looks like porky the pigs tail would be an example the type of descriptions I'm looking for 

1. Although this hasn't happened for a week or so, sometimes when I go to start the jeep, i turn the key and absolutely nothing happens, no clicking no turning just silence. I do hear the fuel pump prime so I do not believe there is an issue there. In order for it to start I kinda have to rapid fire the key almost as if I were checking for engine codes. I think it may be the Throttle Position sensor, but I'm just not sure.

2. This next issue, I have read so many different explanations for I can't keep them all straight. When the car is warmed up (because it doesn't happen when it's cold) and I depress the clutch when coming to a stop it drops to 200rpms or less and shakes the whole damn car. When the car comes to a complete stop the idle returns to normal. And by complete I literally mean stopped dead. Not even if it's going very slow. This however does not happen every time, I think it has a lot to do with the temperature, as well as when exactly and at what rpm i press in the clutch. It gets so low sometimes that my lights dim a noticeable amount.

3. My left blinker loves to tell me it's out by blinking fast, but then the next day it blinks normally. I'm one of those guys who looks at car electronics and gets dizzy and pukes. So any detailed help would be greatly appreciated.

4.This does not appear to be of great concern now, but i'm worried it may be something of great concern later. Whenever I push the clutch in during hard acceleration there is a funny grinding noise only for a split second when the transmission is being disconnected from the engine that sounds almost exactly like a tin can being dragged along concrete. It doesn't do it when I shift at 2500 rpms or less and also it's only shifting from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. Occasionally from 3rd to 4th, but much less noticeable and only under hard acceleration of 3000rpms +. Well that's all I can think of now. Sorry if you guys have read shit like this ten thousand times, No one ever seems to have the same symptoms. If I by chance missed a post with similar symptoms, a link to that post would be awesome.

Thanks a bunch.

jake

[Cyborg]

Not sure really on either of my awnsers, but some things to check:
1) I had intermittent starting problems, and it turned out to be the ignition switch

3) Maybe just check to make sure all the bulbs are secured/screwed in tightly, it might be a loose connection in the actual bulb housing.


I didnt get to in depth, hoping someone else here can expand some more.

[acousticrawk]

id liek to know what everyone thinks about his flashers. i have a flasher problem aslo, accept my right turn siglals work sometimes, and sometimes they just stay on w/o flashing. i feel your pain man.

[jcoleman]

got the flashers fixed today when i got it inspected.  it turned out to be the bulp.  the connection was just a little funky. but a new bulb for now as solved the problem.  also it seems that if one bulb doesn't work, both marker bulbs don't work. so you may only have to replace one bulb.

also cyborg (sorry I don't know your real name) where is the ignition switch and how do I get to it. also what might be wrong with it? A fuse, connection. I'm really electronically illiterate.

[GBJeep]

As for the lights.  when i installed my rear LED taillights I had to go to a mechanical flasher, but I assume the mechanical flasher would help in this situation also.  no matter the power coming back to the flasher it will open and close.  so if you have a burt out light it will still flash normally.

with the starter problem, i have had this issue for 2 years and it can be very annoying.  usaully when it is cold it happens to me (cold being under 40*).  i have replaced the starter twice (AZ hooked it up as a free exchange).  i dont get it.  Everytime it happens i tap the started with my lug wrench (you can easily reach it from under the hood).  or else if i jam the clutch then try to start again it works.  sometimes it also just squeels when i turn the key.  doesnt look good with the ladies in the Jeep. 

if anyone has experieced this and has a solution, I would be interested. 

[Jeffy]

got the flashers fixed today when i got it inspected.  it turned out to be the bulp.  the connection was just a little funky. but a new bulb for now as solved the problem.  also it seems that if one bulb doesn't work, both marker bulbs don't work. so you may only have to replace one bulb.

also cyborg (sorry I don't know your real name) where is the ignition switch and how do I get to it. also what might be wrong with it? A fuse, connection. I'm really electronically illiterate.

Yes, if one bulb is out the whole side won't flash.  This is to tell you the bulb is out.  It's designed to do this.  The flasher works on resistance.  More resistance, the slower the flashing is.  Too much resistance and they won't flash at all.  On the flip side, too little resistance and the flasher will go faster.  This is why when installing LED's you have to replace the flasher relay with an electro/mechanical.  The LED flash so fast that the light looks to be on all the time.

[smashcoast]

"Ohms" Law.