Topic: Water Pump

[BryGy]

I changed my anti-freeze about 2 weeks ago.  To my knowledge my 97 TJ hadn't ever had its anti-freeze changed, because it came out rust brown.  I had almost a half inch of sludge in the bottom of the over-flow resevoir.  But now I am starting to have some anti-freeze dripping down below my engine.  It looks as if the drips lead back to the water pump.  

A buddy suggested that it might last a while, but it will probably go fairly soon.  So I am planning to replace the water pump, belt and thermastat all at the same time.  Anyone got suggestions? write-ups?  I have an electronic copy of a '98 TJ Field Service Manual that I was going to read through.  I figured it would be at least 95% the same.  Anyone know a reason it wouldn't?  Any particular brand water pump I should try to buy?

Thanks for your thoughts.  I'll try to take pictures and hopefully can put together a how-to afterwards.

Bry

[Jeffy]

It's fairly easy and straight forward.  You might also want to check/replace the upper and lower hoses while your at it.

Loosen the belt
Drain radiator
Remove thermostat
Remove fan
Remove pulley
Remove hoses
Remove Pump
Scrape off gasket
Apply some RTV to gasket (optional)
Reverse steps.

I'd consider getting a good thermostat.  I only sure Robertshaw or MrGasket performance thermostat's.  Those cheap ones can and often do fail. HD Stand failed after a week in the Jeep.  Spent $6 for the good ones and it may last long then the engine.

[BryGy]

Jeff - So what do you think about the type of water pump.  Is it worth it to spend the $100 for the High Flow model or $35 for a new unit from the parts store?  When I get the pump and the thermastat will I need to get gaskets as well or do they come with the parts?

[sbspence]

You'll need to make sure they give you gaskets and get some rtv for the mating surfaces. So parts stores will , some won't. I usually use NAPA or a similar store as they are usually more thorough.  

  Makes sure you get the mating surfaces VERY clean use rtv sparingly when reinstalling and tighten down bolts in a cross wise pattern. These parts are usually pot metal or aluminum so keep that in mind when tightening.

 I don't see the need for a hi-flow pump...the four bangers usually cool well enough oem.

 Have fun!

[delkan99]

This is also a good time to change the forward seal on the eng,
If you have the puller to remove the drive pulley it's fairly easy to change
seal,
you'll have the belt off anyway,
Most parts store's will loan or rent the puller,

[Jeffy]

Stock vs. FlowKooler, I'd go with a stock unit.  Faster flow does not mean better cooling.  It takes a while for the heat to transfer into the coolant.  If the flor rate is too fast, it won't cool the engine efficently.  You'd be better off getting a 2 or 3 core radiator with a stock pump.

The other thing about the Flowkooler pumps is that they just pop rivit a shield on the impeller.  This keeps cavation down and focuses the coolant better.  The rivits can break off though.  I think someone said you can get a shield to pop rivit onto a stock pump for cheap also. Although I'm not sure I'd even bother.  With the warranties on a stock waterpump (lifetime usually) and the price ($49), you can't go wrong with a stock unit.

[BryGy]

Took longer than I would have hoped, but that's because I can be an idiot sometimes.  

I started disassembly Saturday evening, got the old water pump off, but it became too dark to see how well I was cleaning off the old gasket.  Started up in the mid morning, by lunch I have the thermastat housing off and all surfaces completely cleaned and everything ready to re-install.  I got the water pump on first without any problems, got the thermastat beck on without any problems.  I reconnected the Power Steering pump and its bracket and then I turned stupid.  As I went to finally torq down the bolts for the thermastat, I set my torq wrench to 15 ft lb.  But I have already tightened past that when I first put them in.  And since I didn't really hear my torq wrench click at me, I kept turning.  Yep, I snapped the bolt head off. Luckily, there was enough bolt sticking out of the engine block that I could put a pair of vice grips on it to back it out.  Finished reinstalling everything else without any problems.

Back up to autozone for new bolts and gasket.  Finally finished up around 4pm.  So what I was hoping would have been a half day project, turned into about 9 total hours.  I guess not bad considering it was the first time I had ever taken apart the front on an engine.  Plus the kids asking for a glass of lemonade or to watch me work didn't make things go any faster.  

So far no leaking.  I let every thing warm up then took it for a quick drive around the block.  I took a few pictures hopefully later this week I'll get them posted with my how-to description.  

Bry