Topic: Manual Hub Conversion?

[Wheezer]

I have been considering converting my front axle to manual locking hubs and don't want to pay the $600 that Warns wants. Their kit is basically hubs out of a Ford Ranger/Bronco II. So is there a range of years I need to look for? Will the spline count on the stub axles be the same? Has anyone attempted this? Any help is MUCH appreciated!

Wheezer

[Jeffy]

$600?  It's usually more like $1300 and you still need to buy new rotors and have them milled.  I don't think you can do a swap as the Ford was the only vehicle that ever used those hubs.  The axles are Dana 35 housing with ford IFS.

If you really want hubs then swap in a Dana 44 and switch the bolt pattern to 5 or 6 on 5.5" lug pattern.

[Wheezer]

Well DANG! I have a line on a wrecked Bronco and was hoping to get by on the cheap. Oh well back to the drawing board. Thanks for your wisdom.

Wheezer

[jagular7]

Another conversion comes from Reider Racing. They offer a knuckle swap to use full size GM (straight axle) 1/2 ton knuckles out hardware. You can keep the 6 on 5.5 bolt pattern (you have to get new wheels anyways) and get a conversion spacer in the rear to match lug pattern, or use a 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern spindle/hub from a Ford or Jeep.
Only other lockout system for the 5 on 4.5 lug pattern is Milemarker.

[jfrabat]

Just out of curiosity, what's the advantage of the lock out?  I have a solid front axle (no vacuum disco for me), so my front DS spins all the time, but it has not been a problem so far.  So I'm not sure what the advantage of the lockout would be; better fuel economy?  Less wear?

[sharpxmen]

Just out of curiosity, what's the advantage of the lock out?  I have a solid front axle (no vacuum disco for me), so my front DS spins all the time, but it has not been a problem so far.  So I'm not sure what the advantage of the lockout would be; better fuel economy?  Less wear?

one of the advantages is that if you break anything you can just disconnect the hubs (u-joint, axle, diff, R&P).

fuel savings as well.

can't think of anything else

[jaxtell]

I saw a post similar some where else. I think the D35 TTB has the 297 u joints like the 95 and later Jeep D30. The spindle mount is different (I have also wandered but don't know) if you drilled the Jeep knuckle to accept the Ford Spindle mount if the axles and used the 95 and later one piece axles; I wander if everything would be in the correct position.

Otherwise, you might could cut the Jeep Knuckles off of the axles tubes and weld the Ford ones on (thinking out loud, I don't even know if they are the same size), but that would be a lot of work.

jerry

[jfrabat]

Cant remember the company, but there is a kit to install D44 knuckles on the D30...

[neale_rs]

That's the one jagular7 mentioned.  It looks like the best way to do it, much stronger than the other kits that use the small Bronco II stuff.

[jaxtell]

I agree, that Reid Racing Knuckle kit looks awesome!

[dwtaylorpdx]

I have the warn kit. The benifits I notice are:
1. The drivetrain is quieter on the high way.
2. I saw about 1 MPG improvement in mileage. (I've had the kit on for 150000 miles, so I've almost paid for it    )
3. The Warn axles are way stronger than the stock D30 ones.

I did it when I did the ARB years ago, so at the time I had money and could afford it. Now I have kids...

Dave