Topic: How much lift?

[4BangerTJ]

Quick question guys. Will 3.25 inch lift be enough to clear 33s and will 4.5 be enough to clear 35s? Here is my predicament....My plan was to go 35s now I found out that my 35s are on backorder and I don't know how long it will take to get them in. I was planning on doing a 4 inch RC lift and maybe a small body lift or flat fenders to have enough articulation room. I think I am going to just go with 33s for a few months to get through till I can get my 35s later. So with that being said I was thinking of doing the 3.25 inch lift from RC and later when I make the jump to 35s then I will go with a 1.25 inch BL to clear the tires. So my question again is will the 3.25 clear the 33s good and later on will the 4.5 inch clear the 35s good?

[Jeffy]

Should be OK.

[Bounty Hunter]

Yes and yes.  Don't forget to extend the bumpstops, your springs will last longer.

[4BangerTJ]

K I thought it would be. thanks a lot.

[stan98tj]

i just did the 3.25" kit today. I went from RC's 2.5" to the 3.25 to clear my 33s. the 2.5" kit cleared them, but they would rub off road. For all the work involved, i would say go straight for the 3.75" kit. In any case the 3.25" kit does clear the 33s. Good luck relocating the rear track bar. I almost stripped the bolt. Do yourself a favor and remove the plastic housing around the track bar knuckle and spray inside and out with PB blaster. In the end i had to remove both ends of the track bar.

[stan98tj]

by the way..if you are going to 4" later, why not just get the 4" kit now? That would avoid having to wrench on it again in a few months or whenever you get 35s. On paper it doesnt seem like a big deal, but the install on these kits are kind of a bear. in a few months or however long it takes for you to get 35s, things will have settled in and it may actually be harder. Just my opinion..my 3/4" gain was a pain in the ass lol. 4" kit on 33s wont look bad either.

[4BangerTJ]

Well see that is what I was debating. I was gonna do the 3.25 RC lift for now to clear the 33s till I get the 35s and then just add a 1.25 inch BL. That was the original plan cause its 370 for the lift or 600 for the 4 inch with upgraded shocks. But wen I called RC I found out that the 3.25 inch lift is just the 2.5 inch with 3/4 inch spacers all around. I don't know much about spacers but I would thinks that is not the best route to go. Now I'm back to trying to figure out what I'm gonna do.

[stan98tj]

Well see that is what I was debating. I was gonna do the 3.25 RC lift for now to clear the 33s till I get the 35s and then just add a 1.25 inch BL. That was the original plan cause its 370 for the lift or 600 for the 4 inch with upgraded shocks. But wen I called RC I found out that the 3.25 inch lift is just the 2.5 inch with 3/4 inch spacers all around. I don't know much about spacers but I would thinks that is not the best route to go. Now I'm back to trying to figure out what I'm gonna do.

they aren't body spacers on the 3.25". it is indeed the 2.5" lift and then spacers that sit on top of the coil springs. i would say save for the 4inch just because of the work load involved in working on suspension kits. im not sure, but it looks as though the 4" kit has different springs, so you would end up having to gut everything you did and replace it all if you went from 3.25 to 4". overall, im real happy with the kit. i bought the original 2.5" kit a little over 3 yrs ago and i wheel it as often as possible. i upgraded to 3.25 to clear the 33s, although the 2.5" cleared them until you hit the trail and they would stuff up into the wheel wells though it wasnt real bad.

[jagular7]

I'm rolling around on 35's with 2" coil spacers and 1.25" body lift. You do have to pick the correct length shock and bump stops to work together. Then with the shocks, front brake lines for full extension and front sway bar disconnect. With spacers, you may or may not have to lower the belly skid for the driveline vibes. If you add the body lift, you can do a motor mount lift for better driveline angles and minimize the driveline vibes. In time, replace the control arms and track bars with articulating and adjustable arms/bars.
With the 35s, you'll going to need to regear the axles. Thoughts are not in put money into the D35 rear axle, so this will require a rear axle swap. Many choices out there: TJ D44, XJ 8.25, Explorer 8.8 and few more. The only bolt in rear axle is from another TJ, the others require axle brackets to be welded. If you have to regear, look into lockers. Lots of choices there: manual or auto, full case or lunchbox. Or stick with limited slip. Choice of cases is based on gears and the diff housing. Example, D44 requires a case change at 3.92 and up gear ratio.

As you can see, every mod leads to another part of the Jeep the mod effects and there goes Just Empty Every Pocket syndrome.

[4BangerTJ]

K let me correct something then add some details I left out. I was not saying that I plan to do the 4 inch lift when I go 35s. My plan was to do the 3.25 inch lift for the 33s then when I go to 35s I was gonn keep the same lift just add 1.25 or so in body lift. That's when I called and found out that the RC 3.25 inch lift is 2.5 suspension and 3/4 inch coil spacers. So again all I was gonna do for the 33s in th 3.25 lift then when I go 35s add a BL. Here is whereim stuck. I really don't know enough about coil spacers to kno if they hurt your flex offroad. Now letme add some more details. I already have an 8.8 axle getting the brackets welded on right now so that stuff will be added as well as 4.88 gears. From what I have heard the 8.8 axle adds about a halfinch of lift plus I'm adding and winch and bumper up front so I will have to add a spacer up front anyways which is kinda why I don't wanna do the RC 3.25 combo kit.

[stan98tj]

Coil spacers won't "hurt" the flex. You could save up and get the 4" kit and be ready for the 35s.  For more clearance the 3.75" kit is better. I think that one actually has a body lift included.

[4BangerTJ]

Yes I checked and the 3.75 lift is the 2.5 suspension and a 1.25 inch BL.

[No Luck]

Choice of cases is based on gears and the diff housing. Example, D44 requires a case change at 3.92 and up gear ratio.

No you can get thick gears for the D-44 and use the 3:73 case

[jagular7]

K let me correct something then add some details I left out. I was not saying that I plan to do the 4 inch lift when I go 35s. My plan was to do the 3.25 inch lift for the 33s then when I go to 35s I was gonn keep the same lift just add 1.25 or so in body lift. That's when I called and found out that the RC 3.25 inch lift is 2.5 suspension and 3/4 inch coil spacers. So again all I was gonna do for the 33s in th 3.25 lift then when I go 35s add a BL. Here is whereim stuck. I really don't know enough about coil spacers to kno if they hurt your flex offroad. Now letme add some more details. I already have an 8.8 axle getting the brackets welded on right now so that stuff will be added as well as 4.88 gears. From what I have heard the 8.8 axle adds about a halfinch of lift plus I'm adding and winch and bumper up front so I will have to add a spacer up front anyways which is kinda why I don't wanna do the RC 3.25 combo kit.

Ok, so you are looking to run 33's right now. In about 5 yrs, you'll be looking to run 35s (once the 33's wear out). With technology of today, you'll probably be replacing what lift you add now.

So with that, toss in some 2" poly spacers, adjustable track bars to recenter the axles under the frame, add some replacement flares (flat style rubber flares), proper length shocks and bumps to keep tires off the body and you're good. Additions I would add, lower front adj control arms, upper rear adj control arms, longer front brake lines (YJs). Put more money into recovery gear, front/rear bumpers, rocker skids, gas tank skid. With the matching spare, you'll have to space off the black spacers on the tailgate to keep the spare from vibrating (or get a rear bumper with swing tire carrier).
I wouldn't worry about the 8.8 adding 1/2". It won't be noticeable. Sort of like taking a measurement of the Jeep and state it leans to the right 1".

That'll get you 33's under your TJ easily.