Author Topic: air supply(not the band)  (Read 1423 times)

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jackhammer

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air supply(not the band)
« on: March 18, 2006, 12:43:32 PM »
hey I am not willing to shell out 2 to 3hundo for 2 or 3 hp  or just so I can put the K&N sticker on my window
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I have heard of swissing up the box..I was thinking only on fender side(no reason for xtra hot air)above the original opening as to not increase the likely hood of sucking in h2o and muck
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heard there is a hour glass shape thingy in stock tube that could be removed to increase flow
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smootingout inside of box for less friction
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upgrading current stock filter with a washable type when I find a deal
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feel free to chime in and give me you opinion...another reason I dont want to change to K&N style tube is I heard the brake boost is reduced

Offline Jeffy

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air supply(not the band)
« Reply #1 on: March 18, 2006, 01:08:54 PM »
A lot of the guy's who run in the desert have moved back to regular old paper element filters.  The K&N's seem to allow a lot of fine particle dust to get past them.

But I'm guessing you're talked about CAI (Cold Air Intake).

I forget if you have a YJ or TJ, but since you mentioned the hour clagg thingy, I suspect it's a YJ.  What the majority doesn't understand is how iar moved and travels.  Instead they just remove everything in it's path, thinking that bigger is better.

Most people call it a restriction.  In basic terms it is.  What is it is a venturi.  Like in a carburator.  The bottle neck speeds up the air but narrowing the passage slightly.  This causes a vacuum which is designed to pull fumes from the CCV.

I don't believe the air flow is really reduced significantly.  At the venturi the air speeds up so there should be about the same CFM.  This is why engine vacuum is reduced.  To create a vacuum, air needs to be moving at a high speeds.  This is why many CAI's throw off the MAP and cause a lean senario.  Since brakes run off vacuum, they are also reduced.  Many people think their bad brakes are because they changed the tires or added lift, but really, engine vacuum, comes into play here.

The other thing that people don't really tank into account is teh pulse wave.  As air moves down the tube, it creates a pulse wave.  The pulse wave travels up and down the intake.  You can tune the pulse wave with intake length.  Optimal timing would have the pulse wave arrive at the intake valves as they open for the intake stroke.  This would help get more air into the engine with every cycle.

You mentioned heat.  This is the main difference between the cheap and the expensive CAI's.  Cheap ones slap on a filter at the end of the stock air tube or on a short tube with little consideration in routing.  Results should be poor.  You're not only changing the length and pressure of the air intake but you're also allowing a lot of engine heat into the intake.  Hotter air is less dense and less dense  means less air and that means less power.

This is one of the reasons I switched from a CAI back to the stock air box.  I even use a paper element Fram filter.  What differences did I see?  Well, first off I noticed more engine torque on the low end and the brakes firmed up a bit more.  Btw, I still have the venturi and the turndown at the front of the airbox on.

Now if I was going to change the setup in any way, I'd be more inclined to keep the stock airbox and use a tube to route the front intake to a better location.  Perhaps to the front of the radiator.  This would help increase air flow without any of the side effects.  Although, I haven't had time to test this.
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jackhammer

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air supply(not the band)
« Reply #2 on: March 18, 2006, 02:07:46 PM »
I have a yj .  i understand why the reducer at end of tube is there i will leave that but extra holes wont increase air flow if put above originalhole on box or on fender side away from engine side Ilike the tube to front of radiator just am afraid of snow plow slop and such moisture

jackhammer

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air supply(not the band)
« Reply #3 on: March 18, 2006, 02:44:05 PM »
check this out.  when top is off air box and I insert hand in tube while throttling the suction is much greater than when I cover hole in front of box.   I understand that the filter is probebly causing this. muffle effect.  I would just think that extra holes in box away from engine would allow maximum flow to the filter since all the said vacum lines run past the filter would be less the effect on the vacum accesories if not help.   any ways tell me what you think...I am pretty sure I saw a couple airboxes in the junkyard so maybe I will pick one or two up and experiment still having the stock one as a controll..
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 tell me what you think

Offline Jeffy

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air supply(not the band)
« Reply #4 on: March 18, 2006, 04:13:59 PM »
Problem with drilling a bunch of holes into the air box is that you're still getting air from the engine compartment.  Heat tends to migrate to around the top if the air box and about 14" from the back of the firewall.  This is where many people put hear vents on their hoods.

You'd still be better off routing a hose to someplace with cleaner/more direct  air flow.
Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZNlr60GXH5OlKIFrT7P6mg
My Jeep: http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php?topic=2783.0
"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."