Topic: Gearing/ driveshafts

[fobanger00]

how should i go about gearing my jeep? i run 35's stock axles and such few engine mods.  i dont have the money to go all out with axles and lockers, but i have 800$ and was wondering how i can do front and rear to beef it up for the time being, i dont care if its lockers or gearing (ring and pinion) or what not.  this is a for now, any help and feedback would be great. i have a 4inch suspension lift and a 3inch body lift and was wondering also what is a good setup for driveshafts. i know alot about a jeep but nothing about gearing/ driveshafts!!

[sharpxmen]

how should i go about gearing my jeep? i run 35's stock axles and such few engine mods.  i dont have the money to go all out with axles and lockers, but i have 800$ and was wondering how i can do front and rear to beef it up for the time being, i dont care if its lockers or gearing (ring and pinion) or what not.  this is a for now, any help and feedback would be great. i have a 4inch suspension lift and a 3inch body lift and was wondering also what is a good setup for driveshafts. i know alot about a jeep but nothing about gearing/ driveshafts!!

that $800 can probably be enough to put in a set of cromoly axle shafts in the rear and get a truss made for it. Ring and Pinion wont increase the strenght of the axle and for what is worth if you go lower gears (like 4.56 or 4.88:1) will put more strain on the axle shafts (or higher torque transferred to them to be more specific). A set of front cromoly axle shafts are around $600 so that will burn your budget but since the rear are about $200 it can fit if you don't go with the truss (although i would recommend that rather than the front shafts). The D30 is less prone to breakeage and usually it's the u-joints that go first and a good upgrade if you have a YJ is a 1-piece passenger axle shaft (not sure what year is your Jeep so might want to mention that) . hope this helps.

[fobanger00]

thank you, it does help because i have heard the same about the d35 prone to breaking, luckily the 4banger doesnt have the nut to spin the tires fast enough to do any damage haha.  i have a 2000 Tj 2.5l 5speed

[sharpxmen]

thank you, it does help because i have heard the same about the d35 prone to breaking, luckily the 4banger doesnt have the nut to spin the tires fast enough to do any damage haha.  i have a 2000 Tj 2.5l 5speed

so in that case you already have the solid passenger axle shaft, i would focus on the rear - you might be able to find an 8.8 from junkyard and have it setup for your Jeep for that amount but will be tight, it all depends on how much work you do yourself (can you weld and such, replace the hole axle, etc) and how much you need a shop to do.

[fobanger00]

only welding i can do is tac welding haha, i am not equipped witht he right stuff.  i would have to get it done by the jeep shop near me, the can do it quick but i am not sure where i would find one of these axles? junkyard? and it would have to match the front gearing correct?

[sharpxmen]

only welding i can do is tac welding haha, i am not equipped witht he right stuff.  i would have to get it done by the jeep shop near me, the can do it quick but i am not sure where i would find one of these axles? junkyard? and it would have to match the front gearing correct?

correct, you need to match the front ratio. I have not done it myself but there are a few projects here (do a search for 8.8 swap or something like that), it's a popular mod with fair prices at the wreckers and has good reviews. and i think they mostly came with 4.10 and some of them had posi, but someone else that did this should confirm.

[neale_rs]

Depending on how much the shop would charge you, this might be a good option to install yourself:

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-2763540-ford-8-8-rear-axle-bolt-in-tj-assembly.html

[stan98tj]

I got my 8.8 from the junk yard. The yard near me sells them for about $130 to $150, for about $200 you can get the gears, and around $220 the brackets for the swap. Now, for the gearing (this is where it can get pricey) I had a local guy I know do it for $150 (per axle) but I've had quotes from $500-$700 to set up the gearing. I wouldn't trust that Dana 35 on those 35s for much longer. The 8.8 is arguably stronger than the dana 44 especially if you eliminate the c-clip and weld the tubes. Check out my build page, I just did this swap and finished it last week. I'll be posting the final pics soon.

[aka-justin]

Any thoughts on inner sleeve / C gusset kit for the front Dana 30? Seems economical addition minus finding a welder.

http://www.synergysuspension.com/Synergy-Suspension-Jeep-JK-TJ-LJ-XJ-ZJ-Dana-30-44-Inner-Axle-Sleeve-Kit-p-20274.html

[stan98tj]

Depending on how much the shop would charge you, this might be a good option to install yourself:

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-2763540-ford-8-8-rear-axle-bolt-in-tj-assembly.html

I went with ECGS, but it is 1600 shipped by the time you are done. Out of his range. BUT, if he gets the axle out of a junk yard like i did and just buys the brackets and gears from ECGS or IronRock off road he can stay in his budget.

[neale_rs]

Any thoughts on inner sleeve / C gusset kit for the front Dana 30? Seems economical addition minus finding a welder.

http://www.synergysuspension.com/Synergy-Suspension-Jeep-JK-TJ-LJ-XJ-ZJ-Dana-30-44-Inner-Axle-Sleeve-Kit-p-20274.html

It seems like sleeving got popular with the JK axles, I don't recall this being a common mod  for the YJ or TJ D30s before the JKs came out.  Probably not needed and not as good as a truss anyway.

I actually looked into this recently and one thing to watch out for is to make sure you can put a seal next to the diff on the passenger side because the sleeve won't let you put it at the disconnect housing anymore.

[sharpxmen]

It seems like sleeving got popular with the JK axles, I don't recall this being a common mod  for the YJ or TJ D30s before the JKs came out.  

i don't think you can sleeve the YJ one due to the vac disconnect housing.

I'm also not sure why it became popular with JKs, maybe the space is tight and prevent a truss being used (i still think a truss is better since would help the housing and not just the long tube).

[Jeffy]

i don't think you can sleeve the YJ one due to the vac disconnect housing.

I'm also not sure why it became popular with JKs, maybe the space is tight and prevent a truss being used (i still think a truss is better since would help the housing and not just the long tube).

When people started wheeling the JK's harder they found that the axle tube was prone to failing between the long-side control arm mounts.  With all of the control arms, and track-bar mounts, it's just easier to insert a sleeve.

I've never really seen this happen to a TJ or YJ though so I'm not sure if it would really help.  The TJ/YJ D30's are narrower then the JK's so that might help a lot.

[Bounty Hunter]

4.88 gears in both axles and baby your rear axle, or swap an 8.8 into the rear.  The 8.8 can be found with the common Jeep axle ratios of 3.73 and 4.10 already installed.

If you Regear the stock axles, consider trading into a set of 33" tires and losing the body lift, parts will last much longer.  Forget sleeving axles, that's JK talk.

[aka-justin]

Forget sleeving axles, that's JK talk.

I had never heard any perspective on sleeving, so I figured I'd bring it up. I always looking for everyone's perspective on the stuff. Would the C gussets alone be worth it on D30 or a D44 with upgraded ball joints and 35's? (sorry if I'm thread hi-jackin  )