Topic: axel ?s

[bluebanger]

I have a 87 yj and want to replace the dana 35 rear axel. I have a 62 ford f100 and a 87 chevy blazer would either if those rear end work?  :?:

[BlackYJ]

I have a 87 yj and want to replace the dana 35 rear axel. I have a 62 ford f100 and a 87 chevy blazer would either if those rear end work?  :?:

Anything is possible

But I am not sure what your fabrication skills are because it won't be a direct swap.  Other things to look at are width and bolt pattern

[bluebanger]

I just aquired a 90 grand cherokee as well is that any better?

[jagular7]

The late ford will have an outdated axle that will require r&p work to match your front gearing, drilling and lugging to match your wheels of 5on4.5, and will probably be too wide in track width. Probably a 8 or 9" rear axle.
The Blazer will have a wider axle as well. It'll be 6 lug, probably be a 10-bolt with c-clips, and will require just as much pre-work as the Ford.
The ZJ will have the same rear axle as the YJ.

Your best bet is to locate an Explorer or XJ/MJ D44 rear axle. Note your front axle gearing. The Explorer will be a 8.8 and the XJ a D44. You could get lucky and have the gearing match, but I doubt it.

Why do you want to swap in another? The late model D35 in the early YJs were not a c-clip design. They are a flange style axle. Are you breaking the shafts?

[Jeffy]

I just aquired a 90 grand cherokee as well is that any better?

Well, it's either the wrong year or not a Grand.  '90 would make it a regular Cherokee XJ.  It will either have a D35 like you already have or maybe a D44.  Although my '90, they were pretty rare.

As for the other axles, you'd need to do a lot of work.  Measure the WMS of each axle.  Bolt patterns will be 5 on 5.5" so you'll need to change either the front or rear bolt patterns.  The F100 would probably have a 9" while the Blazer would have a 10 Bolt.  The 10 bolt isn't really worth it but depending on the 9", it might be.  Although you'd be running full width axles.

[bluebanger]

Why do you want to swap in another? The late model D35 in the early YJs were not a c-clip design. They are a flange style axle. Are you breaking the shafts?
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I am running 35s and keep hearing that I am bound to break an axel shaft. It has held up for now but I would like to be safe.

[jagular7]

Why do you want to swap in another? The late model D35 in the early YJs were not a c-clip design. They are a flange style axle. Are you breaking the shafts?
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I am running 35s and keep hearing that I am bound to break an axel shaft. It has held up for now but I would like to be safe.

How long have you been wheeling with the 35's? If you want to be safe, bring the capability to change out a broken shaft while on the trail. Practice in the driveway so that you know what is entailed.

For an easy rear axle swap for the YJ, you'll need a near matching wms, same lug pattern (5on4.5) to keep same wheels, and matching r&p. Keeping the lead suspension is easy to swap in but just placing the leak pad in the correct spot and welding it in. Shock mounts, the same. Only the difficult aspect would be the ds. You might have to swap a different joint in, shorten or lengthen the tube, etc.
Vehicles fitting most of these requirements are the XJ/MJ/ZJ, and Explorers. XJ/MJ/ZJ will either have a D35, D44 or 8.25. The D35 is not what you want. THe D44 is a flange style axle meaning no c-clips, and the 8.25 is another c-clip axle. All have drum brakes except the D35 from the ZJ. Explorers will have an 8.8. Early models will be drum, late model (95-up) will have discs. The 8.8 is 1"+ narrower than the YJ wms. Spacers are available if you want to match width. Depending on wheel offset if may not be necessary. 8.8 requires a flange to adapt the ds to the yoke. You probably won't find a matching r&p with the 8.8, but you could with the Jeeps. Costs range drastically, but 8.8's in range of $200-350. Jeeps $250-400. Look at http://car-part.com/ for something in a yard. However, check out your local Jeep forum as someone may have something for sale. Hope this info helps.

Now, if you plan to add a locker, and have added a r&p to the front, getting something that you will be adding a locker and r&p anyways, I suggest the 8.8 or the D44. 8.8 plus is the discs. I just added a 8.8 into my 97 TJ because I did break a D35 axle in what I thought was rediculous. I had to add 4.88 and LR so I got a cheap 99 Explorer 8.8 with 3.27s. I hope the 3.27's could be resold. For the ds, I didn't need anything other than the flange (2-2-1379) for the 1330 joint.

[Jeffy]

One correction/clarification to the above.  'Flanged' axles have nothing to C-clips.  This has to do with the axle shafts themselves.  Flanged axles are one-piece shafts with the flange at the end attached.  Two-piece axle shafts will have the Flange bolted onto the end of the shaft.  This is like the early Spicer axles and the AMC Model 20 used on the CJ's.

Also, while the brakes on the D44 are drums, they are larger then the stock drums.  Since his Jeep is a early YJ, it will have the 10x1.75" drums.  The XJ D44's (1987-90) are 10x2.75".  The increased brakes went with the Tow/Mectric Ton Package.  In 1991, the D44 was replaced with the 8.25".  I forget if there is a difference between the older ones and the new ones.  I think they change spline count or shaft DIA or something.  In any case, if you're going to limit your tire size to 335" MAX, then you could go with a 8.25".  They finally have a decent selection of lockers and gears.  They have C-clips but so does the Explorer 8.8".  The 8.25" can usually be found for cheap since it's not sought after like the 44 or 8.8" either.

You'll still need to do some cutting and welding to get the axle under your Jeep though.