Author Topic: U-joints (Read 1526 times)

Jeffy · « **on:** September 17, 2006, 06:23:28 PM »

Ok, my upper rear driveshaft U-joint is stock, and by stock I mean cira 1992. It's almost always made some rumbling in 5th when not under power but now it's doing it in 4th and maybe 3rd, so I should probably get around to replacing it. Now this Jeep is a '92, so I think the U-joint is a 1310 or it could be a 1330. Amyone know which one it is offhand? I'm thinking it's 1310 and the lower is a 1330. Who's changed their pre-93?

jeepers · « **Reply #1 on:** September 17, 2006, 10:22:08 PM »

May be more info than you need -

From '87 to '94.5, the rear diff yoke was a Spicer #2-4-6901-1x and
used a 1310 u-joint, 3 7/32" cap-to-cap.
After that they switched to a Spicer #2-4-7631-1 yoke which used a
1330 u-joint, 3 5/8" cap-to-cap.

If you want to adapt an early driveshaft to a newer ('94+) diff,
you can use a Spicer 5-134x combination u-joint which mates a 1310
yoke to a 1330 yoke. Supposedly this is a late '70's Ford F250
u-joint.

If you have a '94 YJ, you will have to measure the u-joint to be
sure which type you have. Pre-94 will have 1310, post-94 will
have 1330.

Good Luck :)

Jeffy · « **Reply #2 on:** September 17, 2006, 10:30:40 PM »

Ok, that's the pinion end but what about the transfer case end? I'm not swapping driveshafts. I just need to replace the yoke before it gets any worse. I should probably just look it up

jeepers · « **Reply #3 on:** September 17, 2006, 10:34:08 PM »

Both ends should have the same size U-joint.

SMC4WD · « **Reply #4 on:** September 18, 2006, 10:05:24 PM »

Are you going to replace the yoke at the axle side? Look into converting it into U-bolt style... Well worth the investment.

What rear drive are you running? Have you already done a SYE? Now's the time to upgrade to Tom Woods...

Jeffy · « **Reply #5 on:** September 19, 2006, 01:06:10 AM »

Quote from: "SMC4WD"

Are you going to replace the yoke at the axle side? Look into converting it into U-bolt style... Well worth the investment.

What rear drive are you running? Have you already done a SYE? Now's the time to upgrade to Tom Woods...

I'll probably replace both U-joints in the shaft since I'll have it out. I don't have a SYE since I'm still debating on what I want to do with the drivetrain. Amazing as it may be I've always had the slip yoke and stock shaft. I don't want to upgrade to a SYE when I may be swapping out the whole transfer case.

U-joint straps are on the to do list, too. Although I don't overtorque my U-joint bolts so they haven't ever been a problem.

BlackYJ · « **Reply #6 on:** September 20, 2006, 12:16:14 PM »

The t-case joint was always a 1310, they only changed the diff joint to a 1330. Also the 1330 yoke for a D35 is a chrysler specific yoke now and you have to get it through the dealer ($$$). The combo joints are okay, but can cause vibrations.

Jeffy · « **Reply #7 on:** September 20, 2006, 12:36:18 PM »

Quote from: "BlackYJ"

The t-case joint was always a 1310, they only changed the diff joint to a 1330. Also the 1330 yoke for a D35 is a chrysler specific yoke now and you have to get it through the dealer ($$$). The combo joints are okay, but can cause vibrations.

Ok, that's what I thought. So my drive shaft uses two 1310's and isn't the later 1310/1330 used on later models.

News:

Author Topic: U-joints (Read 1526 times)

jeepers

jeepers

SMC4WD

BlackYJ