This will sorta give you an idea what is involved with a SOA.
http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php?topic=45.0 ou'll be opening aup a big bag of worms, unless you really do a lot of research. It won't necessarily be cheap either. You'll need shocks unless you rotate the stock mounts to use the stock shocks but that's a bit of a waste. Although you could grind and redo them later, too. Buying some decent shocks will probably cost around $70 a piece. there are cheaper shocks but they aren't as good and your ride will suffer if you buy cheap shocks.
Perches will need to be welded on both axles. Steering geometry will be an issue too. If you use stock leafs and Rubicon Express perches, you can reuse your stock steering with a dropped pitman arm. If you did anything else with the stock rods, you'd run into clearance issues. Then there is the axle-wrap issue you will get in the rear. You'll either need to raise the spring rate of the leafs by adding thicker leafs or a new pack. The other option would be to add a traction bar of some sort. Then there is the driveline angles.
You could raise the angle of the rear to relieve some stress off the lower U-joint but that puts everything out of phase which can throw off the balance. You could lower the transfer case but that negates some of the lift. The best option would be to convert to a fixed yoke by doing a SYE kit. A SYE with a drive shaft is around $400 for a basic setup and could be as much as $600 for a super slim setup. Then you've got to deal with brake lines which is fairly easy compared to everything else. Relocate the stock lines or buy new lines. At the high end, Braided Stainless steel lines will cost $150 or so.
Another thing, hopefully you made sure the bolt pattern and the offset of those wheels are OK to use. If your state enforces flare laws you'll want to buy some extended flares which are around $150-300. Oh and if you want to keep your sway bar, you'll need to get some 4" sway bar disconnects. They need to be short so the sway bar is still working at the stock angle. Although you could remove this all together but if it's a daily driver, you might want to keep it. The track bars will go in the trash.
After it's all said and done, I think you'll be several hundred into the project.
With extended bump stops you can get away with 3" and 33's. I'd still do a 1" body lift or some TJ flares and some cutting.
