Topic: Chance to get an axle for a good price

[neale_rs]

In my case, since I won't go above 33 inch tires, the Rubicon front would be the easiest way to get a front D44. Even though not as strong as a regular D44, it is still a good upgrade.  According to Jim Allen (article in a 4wd hardware catalog) it can handle 35 inch tires vs. the high pinion D30 with large u-joints that he rates at 33 inches.

I personally wouldn't put much stock in what that guy is saying. The thing that normally breaks isn't the "innards" it's the U-joint.  Many people succesfully run 35's on a dana 30 with ZERO problems.   I myself have run 36" TSL's on one locked with no issues.  The main issue with the axle is that the yokes on the stock axles aren't heat treated and are prone to stretching.  This allows the U-joint to twist and break or take the yoke with it in many cases.  This will happen on a rubi 44 or a TJ 30.   The fix for it is simply buying chormoly shafts and a high strength U-joint.  The ring and pinion on the rubi will be stronger, but thats not normally a problem on a 30 anyway.  A rubi 44 is alot of money for not alot of strength gain then you end up with a low pinoin front end anyway, which is not ideal for off roading.  But the lower gear options would really help out a 4 banger rig.  Thats the only reason I have considered the swap.

As for the $300 deal.  Sounds like a great deal to me.  Your stock TJ calipers and rotors will swap right on there.  I wouldn't try and mix and match because certain years of TJ and XJ's came with thicker or thinner rotors.

Well, the rubi D44 shafts are stronger than the ones in a D30 (more splines and bigger diameter).  The main advantage for me is not having to replace both axles due to width (I already have a rear D44 with 5 on 4.5 pattern) plus rims (due to the different stud patterns) so it would come out cheaper in total.  The lower gearing options are also a plus and the main disadvantage is the low pinion but lots of jeeps run that way so it is not such a big deal.  The overall strength due to the tubes and outers would also not be an issue for me with max 33 inch tires.

[Shawn_c]

In my case, since I won't go above 33 inch tires, the Rubicon front would be the easiest way to get a front D44. Even though not as strong as a regular D44, it is still a good upgrade.  According to Jim Allen (article in a 4wd hardware catalog) it can handle 35 inch tires vs. the high pinion D30 with large u-joints that he rates at 33 inches.

I personally wouldn't put much stock in what that guy is saying. The thing that normally breaks isn't the "innards" it's the U-joint.  Many people succesfully run 35's on a dana 30 with ZERO problems.   I myself have run 36" TSL's on one locked with no issues.  The main issue with the axle is that the yokes on the stock axles aren't heat treated and are prone to stretching.  This allows the U-joint to twist and break or take the yoke with it in many cases.  This will happen on a rubi 44 or a TJ 30.   The fix for it is simply buying chormoly shafts and a high strength U-joint.  The ring and pinion on the rubi will be stronger, but thats not normally a problem on a 30 anyway.  A rubi 44 is alot of money for not alot of strength gain then you end up with a low pinoin front end anyway, which is not ideal for off roading.  But the lower gear options would really help out a 4 banger rig.  Thats the only reason I have considered the swap.

As for the $300 deal.  Sounds like a great deal to me.  Your stock TJ calipers and rotors will swap right on there.  I wouldn't try and mix and match because certain years of TJ and XJ's came with thicker or thinner rotors.

Well, the rubi D44 shafts are stronger than the ones in a D30 (more splines and bigger diameter).  The main advantage for me is not having to replace both axles due to width (I already have a rear D44 with 5 on 4.5 pattern) plus rims (due to the different stud patterns) so it would come out cheaper in total.  The lower gearing options are also a plus and the main disadvantage is the low pinion but lots of jeeps run that way so it is not such a big deal.  The overall strength due to the tubes and outers would also not be an issue for me with max 33 inch tires.

The axle shaft strength is a moot point on front axle applications.  You won't be breaking dana 30 alloy axle shafts anyway.  If your talking stock style shafts it won't matter there either because your U-joint/yoke ears will break long before the shaft itself does.  Other then gearing a rubicon 44 has no real life advatages over a TJ 30.  Simply put the stuff that break on a TJ Dana 30 is the same as what breaks on a rubicon 44.  TJ Dana 30 is fully capable of running 35's in stock form, an d with the addition of shafts and hubs many people run 36's successfully. 

[neale_rs]

In my case, since I won't go above 33 inch tires, the Rubicon front would be the easiest way to get a front D44. Even though not as strong as a regular D44, it is still a good upgrade.  According to Jim Allen (article in a 4wd hardware catalog) it can handle 35 inch tires vs. the high pinion D30 with large u-joints that he rates at 33 inches.

I personally wouldn't put much stock in what that guy is saying. The thing that normally breaks isn't the "innards" it's the U-joint.  Many people succesfully run 35's on a dana 30 with ZERO problems.   I myself have run 36" TSL's on one locked with no issues.  The main issue with the axle is that the yokes on the stock axles aren't heat treated and are prone to stretching.  This allows the U-joint to twist and break or take the yoke with it in many cases.  This will happen on a rubi 44 or a TJ 30.   The fix for it is simply buying chormoly shafts and a high strength U-joint.  The ring and pinion on the rubi will be stronger, but thats not normally a problem on a 30 anyway.  A rubi 44 is alot of money for not alot of strength gain then you end up with a low pinoin front end anyway, which is not ideal for off roading.  But the lower gear options would really help out a 4 banger rig.  Thats the only reason I have considered the swap.

As for the $300 deal.  Sounds like a great deal to me.  Your stock TJ calipers and rotors will swap right on there.  I wouldn't try and mix and match because certain years of TJ and XJ's came with thicker or thinner rotors.

Well, the rubi D44 shafts are stronger than the ones in a D30 (more splines and bigger diameter).  The main advantage for me is not having to replace both axles due to width (I already have a rear D44 with 5 on 4.5 pattern) plus rims (due to the different stud patterns) so it would come out cheaper in total.  The lower gearing options are also a plus and the main disadvantage is the low pinion but lots of jeeps run that way so it is not such a big deal.  The overall strength due to the tubes and outers would also not be an issue for me with max 33 inch tires.

The axle shaft strength is a moot point on front axle applications.  You won't be breaking dana 30 alloy axle shafts anyway.  If your talking stock style shafts it won't matter there either because your U-joint/yoke ears will break long before the shaft itself does.  Other then gearing a rubicon 44 has no real life advatages over a TJ 30.  Simply put the stuff that break on a TJ Dana 30 is the same as what breaks on a rubicon 44.  TJ Dana 30 is fully capable of running 35's in stock form, an d with the addition of shafts and hubs many people run 36's successfully. 

Then it sounds like a stock D44 front axle rubi or any other is a waste of money because it will still be the ujoints and yoke ears that will break first.  The lower gearing options are a plus although some argue it is better to upgrade the TC or trany to get the lower gearing because the low D44 gears result in weaker pinion gears.  For now, I guess you have convinced me to stick with my D30 

[Shawn_c]

I don't think you'll have a problem with the dana 30.  It is a good axle that can be built to handle the trails in Johnson valley even....

[neale_rs]

I´ve seen pictures of that place, very hard core.

[Jeffy]

The problem with the D30 and 35's is really gearing. 4.88's are OK if you're not doing much highway driving or there are no big hills.  Offroad, you won't notice it much since you're geared fairly low anyway, BUT those times when you need to be doing 70mph to stay with traffic, can be tough.  Regearing the axles lower helps two fold.  First it helps offroad by giving you a lower overall gear ratio.  Secondly it helps you onroad with overall gearing.  The problem with swapping in a transmission with lower gears is that you end up with larger gaps between the gears.  Not to mention to get those lower gears you're either giving up 5th or adding another 100lbs with wider gear splits.  Getting lower gears in the transfer case only help with offroad.  Although if you're mainly looking at offroad, doing the transfer case gears will give you more bang for the buck.

So if you're using your Jeep as a daily driver, it's probably best to upgrade the axles so you can go with the proper ratio.

Strength wise, if I was going with a D44, I'd get a real D44.  Then you'd get the advantage of larger stub axles, manual hubs, larger knuckles, Hi-Steering, etc.  It would also help set you up for going larger or even an engine swap.  If you go with ultra low gears you'll want all the strength you can get since torque is also multiplied.  Another thing to consider is that if you get hardened shafts and upgrade from the 297x to the 760x, you'll be moving the weak point else where.

Also, keep in mind the choice all depends on how big you want to go, how you dive and where you go.  Rockcrawling requires more strength then sand or mud.  Out west it's all about super low gears but move to the Midwest or PNW and you've got to give it some throttle as well.

There are a lot of choices to make and I've never heard anyone regret upgrading.