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Author Topic: 231 Doubler Crawlerbox  (Read 10592 times)

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Offline FourbangerYJ

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231 Doubler Crawlerbox
« Reply #15 on: December 07, 2005, 02:49:53 PM »
Without a welder (for some reason I thought you had one or access to one) it would make moving things tough. I would think with your connections on the various boards you could find someone fairly local that would be able to weld things up if you had everything in place. Or you could call a mobil weld place, or if you know how to MIG weld with flux core I could mail you my Ready Welder. With a couple batteries you could burn everything in place with no problem.

My buddy has his skid in the O.E. place. He uses a Skid Row engine skid. (I do to) Keep in mind that the T-case would stay in the stock place. The tranny and motor move forward. The Klune does not hang down at all so it does not take a chance of getting bashed no more than your tranny does now. Plus moving the motor foward raises the engine because of the humps in the frame rails. So you get a motor lift out of it too.

We both use the cable shifter. They cost the same. But if you change your mind you need to send the whole Klune back to be swapped out. The cable is the easiest to set up. You can put it where ever you like. The adjustment on them is cake. I have not had any problems.

I would not run a Klune without a HD output. If you are moving the motor anyway there is no reason to use a SS SYE. Any 32 spline SYE would work. Speedo problem would be solved. Might be cheaper too.

2lo can be had by leaving the T-case in 2HI and putting the Klune in low. Wouldn't work with the compound low though.

Plus moving the motor you can still use your OE front Dshaft. My buddy already had an SYE so he used his shafts without any mods to them.
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Offline Jeffy

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231 Doubler Crawlerbox
« Reply #16 on: December 07, 2005, 03:10:33 PM »
Have any pictures of the process of moving everything forward?  Picts of the mount locations and such.  What all needed to be extended?

Never owned a welder but knew people who did.  I haven't welded in years and that was an Oxy/Acl rig.  I've thought about getting a Ready Welder though.  I'm sure there are people willing to do some welding near me but I haven't bothered to ask around since it's all up in the air still.

Not to mention, I should get another form of transportation first.
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Offline FourbangerYJ

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« Reply #17 on: December 07, 2005, 03:38:19 PM »
I have a few that I took when the work was being done. I would need to dig them up. Or I can snap a few of the finished project.

The only welding needed is the mounts, and the exhaust. You cut infront of the cat and add a piece of tube. Fuel line needs to lengthened to. All electrical should be fine. New radiator hoses or cut your stock ones. cut the fan shroud.

Not a 1 day project. Another car would be needed.
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Offline FourbangerYJ

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« Reply #18 on: December 07, 2005, 03:56:46 PM »
Oh ya you would need a cherry picker too to hold the drivetrain while you cut the mounts and move it and reweld. You can rent them.
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Offline Jeffy

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231 Doubler Crawlerbox
« Reply #19 on: December 07, 2005, 08:19:04 PM »
Well, you can send me whatever you have.

I also forgot all about the Stak 3-speed transfer case.  It's only $2499.00.  Not a bad price either.  Have to wait for a 21 spline imput and they only have the pulse VSS.

Oh and does the Klune come with the mount bracket?  Anything else required?
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Offline FourbangerYJ

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« Reply #20 on: December 07, 2005, 09:30:52 PM »
http://www.klunev.com/wrangler_install_article_version_2.htm

This shows the mounting foot that it comes with. Uses a GM mount. I have the same setup but with a custom crossmember.
It also talks about short rear driveshafts. If you did go with a SS SYE you might not need to move the motor.

But if you move the motor you would need to deal with the tranny shifter (bend it for clearance) as well as the T-case linkage.

I'll work on getting you some PICS. I really need to get a photobucket account.
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Offline FourbangerYJ

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« Reply #21 on: December 07, 2005, 09:38:00 PM »
If a SYE is about 4 inches shorter than a OE output and a SS SYE is 6 inches shorter than an OE you should be golden without needing to move the motor. That would be sweet.
Any idea what the  overall length of a 231 with a SS SYE is?
The Klune is 6.25-6.5 with the mounting foot.

My Klune D20 is 18.5 inches. If it shorter than that you should be set.
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Offline Jeffy

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« Reply #22 on: December 07, 2005, 11:08:44 PM »
The SS SYE is 3-1/8" shorter then their HD SYE and some sites say 2.25" shorter then others. The JB SYE is 4.5" shorter then OEM.  So in a round about way, it's 7.625" shorter then OEM.

It say's it's s smig shorter then an Atlas II with the gear driven VSS.   An Atlas is 13.8".

With the SS SYE, I'd need to lengthen the front driveshaft and stretch the T-case shifter.  Then something to recalibrate the speedo signal.

VS.

Moving the engine forward, bending and welding to the floor shifter.  So a SYE and I'd actually gain rear driveshaft length.  Do a SS SYE and The rear shaft would be 21".

Seen those picts, would like to see engine and T-case skid mods. Interior floor and shifter would be ncie too.
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Offline FourbangerYJ

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231 Doubler Crawlerbox
« Reply #23 on: December 08, 2005, 10:20:49 AM »
http://www.dakotadigital.com/

These guys might have what it takes to get the speedo fixed.

My rear shaft if 20 inches. Front is OE.

Sounds like the SS SYE would be way easier.
I would imagine you could take your T-case shifter and lengthen it and take it to a muffler shop and have them weld it for cheap.

The interior floor should stay the same. Just need to deciede where to put the Klune shifter. I would go with the cable. It's a boat throttle shifter. It can be mounted in various ways.
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Offline FourbangerYJ

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231 Doubler Crawlerbox
« Reply #24 on: December 08, 2005, 11:48:30 AM »
http://www.klunev.com/install_2.htm

This talks about the skid mods and shifter mods.

I registered with photobucket and snapped some shots of my junk. I won't beable to load them until later today.

I'll start a new thread in Tech. (If I can figure out how to post PICS) :oops:
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