Author Topic: 1" Riser mm change  (Read 1102 times)

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Offline jagular7

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1" Riser mm change
« on: January 15, 2006, 09:04:53 PM »
Well, in todays good weather (63* in KC woohoo), I installed the Currie 1" mm to compliment the poly trans mount from the other day install. The old trans mount fell apart when I removed the crossmember plate. What a PITA by oneself on those mms and I thought the crossmember plate was bad. The stock stud n the mm is replaced with a bolt, couple of washers, and a nut with nylon lock. Trying to get the bolt from turning was difficult to figure out. I had to use several extensions and place a ratchet into a bind on the top side to be able to screw on the nut from underneath. To add, on the 97 TJ w/4cyl, I had to move the alternator out of the way as the mount bolt head faced it. (That darn alternator is held on by 3 bolts!!!) This required loosening the belt. The belt does have a tensioner but it's not rotatable to remove the belt. I had to do that through the ps pulley. (Is there another TJ 2.5 cyl year which has the rotatable tensioner as an upgrade?) 2 other problems: trying to balance the engine on a 4x4 block of wood and raise it high enough to get the bolts through both mm, and the other the mm engine bracket is not formed for the big poly bushings. I had to grind some space in the bracket. In doing so, I also cut the fuse link from the alternator and had to fix that.
When I did the trans mount, I removed the damage shifter linkage and installed the Skyjacker bracket kit. It uses just the bell crank of shifter mechanism in its own bracket which is bolted to the trans/t-case bolts. The link between the bell crank and the shifter is ~1" too short. I thought of raising the trans mount off the skid plate with spacers. Then it got way to dark and a bit chilly....bur   :shock: ....
I did notice the trans did move forward about 1/4" in the crossmember mount with the 1" mm.  All locked down, it runs and charges, and there is definately a lot of transmitted vibrations and it was only idling....

Here are some pics of the situation.
The poly trans mount.


Underneath the passenger side mm. You can see the stud and the bolt for the mm. You can also see the mm bolt behind the alternator.


Another of the alternator.


Difference between mms: Currie vs. stock (115k miles).


And that darn belt bolt adjuster
Jagular7
97 SE - Rubbered and locked for fun
94 SE - stock, collecting parts for 37s

Offline Jeffy

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1" Riser mm change
« Reply #1 on: January 15, 2006, 09:56:56 PM »
Sure is rusty for a TJ. :shock:
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

Po' Boy

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1" Riser mm change
« Reply #2 on: January 20, 2006, 11:42:24 PM »
Quote from: "Jeffy"
Sure is rusty for a TJ. :shock:


The further east you go, the worse it is. Exposed metal today=surface rust covered in the morning here in KY.

Offline Jeffy

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1" Riser mm change
« Reply #3 on: January 21, 2006, 12:10:57 PM »
Quote from: "Po' Boy"
The further east you go, the worse it is. Exposed metal today=surface rust covered in the morning here in KY.


When I live in Hawaii, I'd see a lot of rust buckets with salt air 24/7 but my Jeep seemed to handle it alright.  Even after 8 years it never looked like that.   :shock:

So how do you like the poly mounts?  I get a lot of vibrations at idle.  I'm planning on changing mine out to some "budget mounts" and go stock.  The vibrations get really alloying when I put the rack on the top.  It starts to resonate and the rack makes a bunch of noise after a while.
Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZNlr60GXH5OlKIFrT7P6mg
My Jeep: http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php?topic=2783.0
"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."