Topic: A few things I'd like to look at this weekend

[StefanBidi]

I'm thinking about doing some work that is needed on the Jeep this weekend, and I'd like to run it through you guys just to make sure nothing explodes while I'm at it.  I have never done most of this stuff, pretty much what I need is a little push in the right direction.

One of the things I really want too look at is the clutch pedal.  Every time I press it and let it go I get a little crackling sound.  I figured it's just something that needs to be lubed up, but I'm not really sure where to start with it.  This is really bothering me, even though I can't hear it most of the time, because I when things as critical as the clutch are being noisy.

Another things is the rear brakes... mine are a bit too far from the drums.  I know this for sure because my e-brakes almost don't work at all.  My dad had a similar problem a few months ago, but he took it to a shop.  I'm wondering what should I be looking for a how to go about doing this!  Like I mentioned, I just need to get the pads (or whatever they're called for drum brakes) closer to the drum.

Now this next one is pretty important, it's got to do with my springs.  A while ago I notice the Jeep was a bit crooked, so I put a level on the roof and it really is crooked.  Seems like the front driver side spring is a hell of a lot softer than the passenger's.  So I'm thinking I might have got them backward when I was putting them on... I have the OME springs, and I remeber they have to be placed in specific sides.  I also remember that when I put them on the instructions (that I found online) were a bit contradictory.  I can't remeber exactly which one I put where, but I remember I double check to make sure they were right.  Anyway, I think what I'm going to do is swap them and check if that level it.  If it doesn't, and it turns out that it has sagged, what should I try doing?  Contacting OME or the vendor?  I'm not really sure what the warranty on these are.

[Jeffy]

Ok, with the clutch, there insn't much there.  Mine squeaks when I let it out too.  Basically there is a pivot, a pin that connects it to the master and a spring.  Most likely it's the spring creaking.

Brakes;  Rear brakes are called shoes.  First you will want to take the tires off.  Then take the drums off.  If they are dirty, wash them out before starting.  You don't want to breath it in.  Vacuuming it is another option.  If the pads have a decent amount of pad left then just adjust them.  What's a decent amount 1/4" or more.  Less then that and you might want to consider replacing them.

If you are going to replace the pads you might want to do all of the brakes at once.  Fronts are a snap and only need a large C-clamp to push the caliper piston back a bit.  For the rear's you really want to buy brake plyers.  Basically they are a two-in-one tool for doing brakes.  They make life a lit easier and safer when removing the springs.

Now if all you have to do is adjust the brakes, you want to look at the bottom of the backing plate for a little cog.  Turning it out will spread the shoes apart and tighten the brakes.  You want to get them close to dragging against the drum then back them off.  This involves putting the drum back on to check them.  Once they're 'close' you can button it back up.  You will want to go in reverse and brake semi-forcefully a few times and that will adjust the brakes the rest of the way.

To adjust the parking brake, you'll want to release the brake then chock the tires and leave it in gear.  There is what's called a yoke. (this is where the two rear brake liens meet up to the front cable.)  It is located under the driver seat.  You'll see that the front cable is connected to a bolt and the rear cables are in a bracket.  Hold the bolt and tighten the nut.  This will tighten the parking brake.  You don't want it too tight though.  I usually set mine so that last 2/3's starts tightening it.  Tightening it too much will pull on the brake shoe and will cause the shoes to drag since you're already adjusted the brakes.

Springs.  Generally you want the passenger side to be slightly stiffer.  The reason is drivetrain torque.  If you've ever accelerated forcefully, youll notice that the body wil twist clockwise.  This is because the drivetrain is turning the other direction.  It's common for any vehicle to be slanted a bit.  The stiffest leaf should be the passenger side rear. Then the driver side rear then passenger side front and finally the driver side front.  That's if they bother accounting for the torquing forces.

If you think you've got the leafs turned around then I'd call OME.  They might also replace them if they're out of spec.

[SMC4WD]

Springs.  Generally you want the passenger side to be slightly stiffer.  The reason is drive train torque.  If you've ever accelerated forcefully, you’ll notice that the body will twist clockwise.  This is because the drive train is turning the other direction.  It's common for any vehicle to be slanted a bit.  The stiffest leaf should be the passenger side rear. Then the driver side rear then passenger side front and finally the driver side front.  That's if they bother accounting for the torquing forces.

If you think you've got the leafs turned around then I'd call OME.  They might also replace them if they're out of spec.

I wish I would have seen this earlier...    

The OME springs are labels A from the drivers' side.  The drivers side spring is just about 5mm taller.  90-90% of the time the rear springs are the same way.  Rarely, but it happens, the rear springs need to be switched around.

The way to measure the suspension is like so:
Get a paper and draw a box, the but a roof on the box (make a house).  The triangle (roof) is the front.  Now measure on a flat surface from the bottom of the lowest point on each fender and the bottom of the wheel.  Measuring the bottom of the wheel takes air pressure or tire wear out of the equation.
Once your done measuring, look at that paper.  If you see corners off, switch springs around.  It's usually that simple.
ARB also offers 'trim spacers'.  These are used to gain another 5mm of lift only if you just can't get the corner to raise up.

Warranting springs aren't as easy as you may think.  ARB's customer service and tech department are top notch.  But to warranty a spring, you'll have to remove it from the vehicle, set it up onto a flat surface with a distinct 45 degree angle.  Put the spring on the corner and measure in millimeters.  ARB's tolerances are really tight.  
It could happen, but it's pretty unlikely that the spring made it out of Australia too short.  Remember, they build lots and lots of those springs.  One spring won't be out of specs, hundreds will.

Call ARB at 1-888-4ARBUSA, M-F 8:30am - 4:30 pm PST.  

___

Oh ya, about your brakes and clutch pedal.  Ummm...  Sorry, I know ARB, not that stuff...   :roll:

[StefanBidi]

Another problem just came up, and this one is not only urgent but sounds bad.  Since Tuesday I've been hearing this very intermitent squeaking noise.  I didn't make much of it until this afternoon when I was driving to work and it just wouldn't stop.  When I got here (I'm at work right now) I started trying to figure out what was causing it, I knew it was coming from the rear axle.  Turn out my pinion seal is leaking!  There's quite a bit of oil around that area of the axle pumpkin and this worries me.  For this, I'm thinking about taking it to a shop since I really don't know what the crap I'm doing.  My main question is, how much should I be looking to pay for something like this (fixing/replacing a bad pinion seal)?  I'm really affraid of driving the Jeep now, but I still need to make it back home (only about 20 miles).  The squeaking sound is also pretty loud, which makes it even worst to try to forget it's there.

[Jeffy]

Well, I'd clumb under there and give the driveshaft a shake.  Also check the lube level in the housing.  If it's squeaking, it might be really low which might mean the pinion bearing is bad.  If that's bad then the carrier will need to come out and the $10 bearing will need to be pressed off the pinion gear and a new one pressed on.  I'd estimate that you might be able to get it done for under $100.  Shop around and you might get lucky and have it done for under $75.  The gears will not need to be setup but you'll need to redo the crush sleeve.

Now if it's just a bad seal, then that's an easy job in comparison.  First the pinion bearing preload needs to be checked and recorded on a inch-lbs dial type torque wrench.  Then the nut can be taken off and the yoke as well.  Pop the seal out and tap the new one in.  Tighten the bolt for the yoke and recheck the bearing preload.  Although some people ignore the preload which isn't a good idea but as long as you don't crush the sleeve anymore it should be ok.  Oh and the seal costs $5.

[StefanBidi]

Either way I'm going to take it to a shop to get the pinion issue done!  For one thing, I don't have the required tools or knowledge to get something like that done.  Good to know it's not going to cost me a lot, I was thinking over $200 before.